Hello All,
In the past I just started replacing things to fix this problem. Is there a more intellegent process of figuring out why I don't have any spark? Points are good. I leaning towards the starter solenoid or the coil.
Although the coil looks like it has good resistance, approx 11k ohms.
Any ideas.
It's a 240/6
Thanks for the info.
B.
I got no spark.
-
banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
I assume the engine cranks fine?
I also assume you have confirmed as good battery connections, cap, rotor, plugs and wires, and the points are properly gapped as well.
Turn the ignition on, to the RUN position.
Check that you are getting at least 6V at the + side of the coil.
If not, then the problem is between the switch and the wiring to the coil.
To check the wiring from the solenoid to the coil for extra voltage during cranking, do this:
Remove the starter to solenoid cable, opposite the battery, from the solenoid. (So the starter won't turn over during this test.)
Leave the other 3 wires on the solenoid.
Have an assistant turn and hold the key to the START position.
The solenoid should click.
While the key is in the START position, check for 12V at the small stud next to the cable you removed earlier.
You should have 12V there, with the key at START, but no voltage with the key at RUN.
If you do not have 12V at the solenoid while at START, you have a bad solenoid.
With the key still at the START position, check for 12V at the + side of the coil.
If you do not have 12V here, then there is a problem with the wiring between the solenoid and the coil.
Reinstall the starter cable you removed earlier, if the tests are good.
Check next for spark.
Pull the distributor cap and rotor.
Pull the center coil wire off the cap, and make sure it is still firmly affixed to the coil.
Stick a phillips screwdriver inside the coil wire, and rest the rod of the phillips about 1/4 inch away from a ground. Don't ground it, you want the screwdriver's rod to be close to a ground, to show a spark jumping to ground in the next steps. (As another option, you can hold the coil wire about 1/4 inch from a ground with one hand while you do the tests, but you might get bit that way! Or, hold the handle of the phillips screwdriver, and it will insulate you.)
If the points are closed, use a flat bladed screwdriver to pull or push open the movable lever and let it snap shut. (Don't pry against anything metal to open them, you will ground the points out and not get spark.)
If you do not get spark, or if the points are open, use the flat bladed screwdriver to intermittently ground out the lever, to get spark.
If all is well, you should get sparks from the coil wire after manually opening and closing or grounding the points.
If you get spark here, then the primary electrical ignition system is good. You don't need to test the coil or 12V wires any further.
This would indicate a problem with the secondary or high voltage ignition system, namely the cap, rotor or wires not passing the spark through the secondary ignition system.
If you still do not get spark, do this:
(First turn the key to OFF, then back to RUN while disconnecting and connecting wires. Otherwise, you may get a spark to bite you at the least desirable time.)
Remove the wire from the distributor, where it comes from the coil. Intermittently ground it out, and you should get spark.
If you get spark at this point, but not with the wire connected to the points, then there is something wrong with either the points or the condenser. If you do get spark by intermittently grounding out the wire, reconnect the wire to the points, but disconnect the condenser. Try opening and closing the points again, with the condenser disconnected. If you get spark now, the points are OK, but the condenser is bad, and shorted to ground. (It is rare, but possible, that the points have shorted to ground as well.)
If you still do not have spark, try a jumper wire between the - (negative) side of the coil and a ground, intermittently grounding it while checking for spark.
If you get spark at this point, then the problem is with the wire itself, either open or shorted to ground.
If you don't get spark at this point but all the voltages test out OK, you probably have a coil problem, or a plug wire problem.
I also assume you have confirmed as good battery connections, cap, rotor, plugs and wires, and the points are properly gapped as well.
Turn the ignition on, to the RUN position.
Check that you are getting at least 6V at the + side of the coil.
If not, then the problem is between the switch and the wiring to the coil.
To check the wiring from the solenoid to the coil for extra voltage during cranking, do this:
Remove the starter to solenoid cable, opposite the battery, from the solenoid. (So the starter won't turn over during this test.)
Leave the other 3 wires on the solenoid.
Have an assistant turn and hold the key to the START position.
The solenoid should click.
While the key is in the START position, check for 12V at the small stud next to the cable you removed earlier.
You should have 12V there, with the key at START, but no voltage with the key at RUN.
If you do not have 12V at the solenoid while at START, you have a bad solenoid.
With the key still at the START position, check for 12V at the + side of the coil.
If you do not have 12V here, then there is a problem with the wiring between the solenoid and the coil.
Reinstall the starter cable you removed earlier, if the tests are good.
Check next for spark.
Pull the distributor cap and rotor.
Pull the center coil wire off the cap, and make sure it is still firmly affixed to the coil.
Stick a phillips screwdriver inside the coil wire, and rest the rod of the phillips about 1/4 inch away from a ground. Don't ground it, you want the screwdriver's rod to be close to a ground, to show a spark jumping to ground in the next steps. (As another option, you can hold the coil wire about 1/4 inch from a ground with one hand while you do the tests, but you might get bit that way! Or, hold the handle of the phillips screwdriver, and it will insulate you.)
If the points are closed, use a flat bladed screwdriver to pull or push open the movable lever and let it snap shut. (Don't pry against anything metal to open them, you will ground the points out and not get spark.)
If you do not get spark, or if the points are open, use the flat bladed screwdriver to intermittently ground out the lever, to get spark.
If all is well, you should get sparks from the coil wire after manually opening and closing or grounding the points.
If you get spark here, then the primary electrical ignition system is good. You don't need to test the coil or 12V wires any further.
This would indicate a problem with the secondary or high voltage ignition system, namely the cap, rotor or wires not passing the spark through the secondary ignition system.
If you still do not get spark, do this:
(First turn the key to OFF, then back to RUN while disconnecting and connecting wires. Otherwise, you may get a spark to bite you at the least desirable time.)
Remove the wire from the distributor, where it comes from the coil. Intermittently ground it out, and you should get spark.
If you get spark at this point, but not with the wire connected to the points, then there is something wrong with either the points or the condenser. If you do get spark by intermittently grounding out the wire, reconnect the wire to the points, but disconnect the condenser. Try opening and closing the points again, with the condenser disconnected. If you get spark now, the points are OK, but the condenser is bad, and shorted to ground. (It is rare, but possible, that the points have shorted to ground as well.)
If you still do not have spark, try a jumper wire between the - (negative) side of the coil and a ground, intermittently grounding it while checking for spark.
If you get spark at this point, then the problem is with the wire itself, either open or shorted to ground.
If you don't get spark at this point but all the voltages test out OK, you probably have a coil problem, or a plug wire problem.
Last edited by banjopicker66 on July 26, 2007, 8:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Thanks Banjopicker
That's exactly what I was looking for!
-
donald luster
- Posts: 133
- Joined: May 19, 2007, 8:49 am
You got some good advise and you may have it figured out by now. But i will tell you my short cut method that I have used for many years. One bump the engine around until points open. Then with key on take a good small screwdriver and rub the moveable side of the point with screwdriver to the plate. YOU should see small sparks with doing this. IT will shock you if you touch the metal of screw driver. This tell you the primany of VOLTAGE system to the coil is working. Next close the points by moving the engine over. Now open the points with the screwdriver while holding the coil wire about 1/8 inch from ground. You should get a strong spark. If no sparks then look at the points they may not be transfering the primany across the statationary side to ground. The small ground wire inside the dist may be broken and not giving ground to the distr. If you still have trouble the backtrack throught the system wire by wire and check for voltage. Don