The 1964 F100 4x4
The 1964 F100 4x4
Thought I should start a new thread to cover all the work I plan to do to the truck. The new door seal arrived today. My first question is there a preferred adhesive brand to use to install them? Any other tips for the install?
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
3-M weatherstrip adhesive. Black or yellow.
I call it "gorilla snot" because it migrates to every part of your body and gets on everything you touch. Get a can of acetone and a clean rag to clean up smears and stuff on you and the truck as soon as you can.
Wash your rubber in dish washing detergent to get the mold release agent off the rubber and let it dry for a couple of days laid out on the floor or shop table in roughly the shape of the door.
Don't forget to identify the left and right gaskets.
Do a trial fit with masking tape holding things in place to see how things are supposed to look.
I masked off the part of the door jam I can see with the door open, with enough room left for the adhesive to bond to the rubber to the door.
Start at the bottom where the little hard tits fit in the holes at the bottom of the door.
Work in sections about 2 feet at a time.
Smear a coat of gorilla snot on the door groove (seam) where the gasket will fit.
Smear a coat of gorilla snot on the section of the gasket you're working on.
Bond the two surfaces and securely tape up both ends you're working on (and maybe a piece to support inbetween).
Do not pull or stretch the rubber gasket.
I would go up the inside of the door where the hinges are first and finish this part off. The molded gasket should fit the scallop of the body line and one end terminates here. Repeat the gluing and taping process.
Next, go to the outside edge and work up and over the top of the door then back down the inside and don't forget the tape.
Remember, take your time and if you're having problems, work in shorter segments.
Let it cure over night and you should be done.
FYI
Two sets of hands is better than one set.
I call it "gorilla snot" because it migrates to every part of your body and gets on everything you touch. Get a can of acetone and a clean rag to clean up smears and stuff on you and the truck as soon as you can.
Wash your rubber in dish washing detergent to get the mold release agent off the rubber and let it dry for a couple of days laid out on the floor or shop table in roughly the shape of the door.
Don't forget to identify the left and right gaskets.
Do a trial fit with masking tape holding things in place to see how things are supposed to look.
I masked off the part of the door jam I can see with the door open, with enough room left for the adhesive to bond to the rubber to the door.
Start at the bottom where the little hard tits fit in the holes at the bottom of the door.
Work in sections about 2 feet at a time.
Smear a coat of gorilla snot on the door groove (seam) where the gasket will fit.
Smear a coat of gorilla snot on the section of the gasket you're working on.
Bond the two surfaces and securely tape up both ends you're working on (and maybe a piece to support inbetween).
Do not pull or stretch the rubber gasket.
I would go up the inside of the door where the hinges are first and finish this part off. The molded gasket should fit the scallop of the body line and one end terminates here. Repeat the gluing and taping process.
Next, go to the outside edge and work up and over the top of the door then back down the inside and don't forget the tape.
Remember, take your time and if you're having problems, work in shorter segments.
Let it cure over night and you should be done.
FYI
Two sets of hands is better than one set.
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Glad to hear the details, as I have not done this before. Do you shut the door right after the install or wait till the adhesive cures? Is it better to do this with the door off so you have better access to the hinge side?
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chris honestly if you can take the doors off and have a place to lay them flat it will be easier . One little hint here before you take them off if they seem to be set right in the openings before you remove them take an 1/8" drill bit and drill a hole through the top and bottom hinge on the door itself . You can then use said drill bit to help line the doors back up when you go to put them back on .
Oh yeah have some ziplock bags handy to put the hinge cover plates and screws and hinge bolts into for each door so you can find them again when you go to put them back together . A sharpie will be handy to write on the baggies whats inside the baggies .
Rick
Oh yeah have some ziplock bags handy to put the hinge cover plates and screws and hinge bolts into for each door so you can find them again when you go to put them back together . A sharpie will be handy to write on the baggies whats inside the baggies .
Rick
if it aint broke fix it till it is
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
It seemed to me it would be easier, especially for a beginner like me, to have the door off to do this. I have already scribed the door hinge, as they were very close to right, to aid in getting them realigned. I use old 1 lb. butter containers for the hardware so nothing gets lost.
My only question was if after they are initially glued, is it better to put the door back on and shut it to get the seals to seat better or just let it sit overnight. Is 1" masking tape OK to hold the seals in place as you move along? The door seals came from Classic Auto Parts. Since this is my first try at doing this, and not seeing the seals from Dennis, I can't know if the seals are as good as his or not. I'm sure as I am installing them I will find out. They look like good rubber to me, but what the heck do I know.
My only question was if after they are initially glued, is it better to put the door back on and shut it to get the seals to seat better or just let it sit overnight. Is 1" masking tape OK to hold the seals in place as you move along? The door seals came from Classic Auto Parts. Since this is my first try at doing this, and not seeing the seals from Dennis, I can't know if the seals are as good as his or not. I'm sure as I am installing them I will find out. They look like good rubber to me, but what the heck do I know.
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chris personally I would let them set up for a while before remounting and closing . The 1" tape sshould be fine . Mind you I havent done this job yet myself so somebody like Uncle Skip will have to chime in as to wether or not its better to leave them off while they set up or remount and close them .
Rick
Rick
if it aint broke fix it till it is
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chris/ Rick.
Yes to everything you guys said.
Personally, I'd do it on the bench if at all possible but in the order that I listed.
1" tape is great but use the blue painters tape, not regular masking tape.
And I suggest leaving things to cure over night before you remount the doors. Closing the door before the adhesive sets runs the chance of pinching or moving the gasket out of position.
Its not hard but it can be a little messy.
Like I said, just take your time and you'll be happy with the results.
As far as I know, Classic uses Dennis Carpenter rubber re-branded.
I'll post "how to" pictures when I do Tweetybird's doors.
Yes to everything you guys said.
Personally, I'd do it on the bench if at all possible but in the order that I listed.
1" tape is great but use the blue painters tape, not regular masking tape.
And I suggest leaving things to cure over night before you remount the doors. Closing the door before the adhesive sets runs the chance of pinching or moving the gasket out of position.
Its not hard but it can be a little messy.
Like I said, just take your time and you'll be happy with the results.
As far as I know, Classic uses Dennis Carpenter rubber re-branded.
I'll post "how to" pictures when I do Tweetybird's doors.
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Unc I'm not even sure I own any " regular " masking tape . All of mine is either Blue or Green . Blue for holding things and green for painting anything other than the house .
Rick
Rick
if it aint broke fix it till it is
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
If by Classic, we are referring to Obsolete and Classic, IIRC the ones I inherited from the PO were not labeled Dennis Carpenter, although other products from them were in original DC packaging. With the possibility they are NOT Dennis Carpenter products in mind, might I suggest doing one door, trying it and then deciding. You may not get a refund, but you will certainly save some effort if they are the same as LMC's. There are at least several of us so unhappy with those sold by LMC and others that we actually removed them and installed the DC's we should have in the first place.
A search of the archives will reveal the reasons for our dis-satisfaction.
It amazes me that a company as supportive as LMC would continue to sell products lacking their normal quality.
Can't say we weren't warned; we are lucky to have a vendor who focuses on quality.
It might be worthwhile to put a call in to the vendor to find the source of their product, if they are willing to reveal that info.
Paul
A search of the archives will reveal the reasons for our dis-satisfaction.
It amazes me that a company as supportive as LMC would continue to sell products lacking their normal quality.
Can't say we weren't warned; we are lucky to have a vendor who focuses on quality.
It might be worthwhile to put a call in to the vendor to find the source of their product, if they are willing to reveal that info.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Toyz wrote:If by Classic, we are referring to Obsolete and Classic, IIRC the ones I inherited from the PO were not labeled Dennis Carpenter, although other products from them were in original DC packaging. With the possibility they are NOT Dennis Carpenter products in mind, might I suggest doing one door, trying it and then deciding. You may not get a refund, but you will certainly save some effort if they are the same as LMC's. There are at least several of us so unhappy with those sold by LMC and others that we actually removed them and installed the DC's we should have in the first place.
A search of the archives will reveal the reasons for our dis-satisfaction.
It amazes me that a company as supportive as LMC would continue to sell products lacking their normal quality.
Can't say we weren't warned; we are lucky to have a vendor who focuses on quality.
It might be worthwhile to put a call in to the vendor to find the source of their product, if they are willing to reveal that info.
I am doing a dry fit this evening. Hopefully it all fits well.
Paul
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chis, it's more than the fit! I don't know if the durometer of the rubber is different or the dimensions differ. The properly adjusted doors will require literal "slamming" to close, and it does NOT improve with time.
Paul
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
The dry fit is postponed until tomorrow morning, as there are some rain clouds coming and I am working outside. Got the seal, tape, rags and adhesive and I am ready to go and mother nature is screwing with me.Toyz wrote:Chis, it's more than the fit! I don't know if the durometer of the rubber is different or the dimensions differ. The properly adjusted doors will require literal "slamming" to close, and it does NOT improve with time.
Paul
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
LOL Chris welcome to my world my Unibody body is in the garage so the Donor Crownvic is in the driveway under a tarp and Rain has killed me this summer every time I get an hour to play it starts raining or the skeeters are tearing me up .
Rick
Rick
if it aint broke fix it till it is
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chris, did you wash and dry your gaskets like I said?
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Yes I did. Trying my best to follow all the instructions. The dry fit was good as everything seemed to fit very well. Had to take the missus to Cheyenne shopping today so install tomorrow morning. Cleaning off the old stuff took over an hour.Uncle Skip wrote:Chris, did you wash and dry your gaskets like I said?
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Finally got some time to put on the drivers side seal on today. As you all mentioned, I went slow taped a lot and now waiting for the adhesive to cure than off with the tape and some cleanup of excessive adhesive. Looks very good to me. I would post some pics but it seems my pics size is too large. Tried to find out how to upload them to PB as a smaller size but never found where to do that. Tried to upload them to this site in the album section, created an album, but never found a button to upload them.
Couple of days from now I will do the passenger side. Have an auction to go to tomorrow.
Couple of days from now I will do the passenger side. Have an auction to go to tomorrow.
Last edited by milomilo on August 12, 2013, 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
The door is on and latched. Needs a little more adjusting to be just right. Rain clouds coming so that's it for today.
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Chris feel free to send them to me at my screen name at hotmail.com and I will get them loaded up for you .
Rick
Rick
if it aint broke fix it till it is
-
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
- Location: Louisville,Ky
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
if it aint broke fix it till it is
Re: The 1964 F100 4x4
Thanks for posting the pics for me.
Chris
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress
64 F100 4X4 Styleside Wrong Bed
on a 74 chassis, 390, C6
A work in progress