9" woes?

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » August 15, 2007, 11:04 am

Funny!

There is a stretch of road I hit nearly every morning where I can make a 135 degree right hander and there is little or no traffic. So when there is no traffic around I like to hang the tail end out through first gear and see how far I can keep it out, drifting if you will.

Before I could keep the tail out for about 400 Feet before it would fall back in line. Now I can keep it out almost as long but the time needed to cover the same ground seems a whole lot shorter. And just screwing around (stoplight drags) I get a heck of a lot less wheel spin and it just flat out plants it down.

On a side note, inspection of the diff came up dry. A bit of lash but nothing out of tolorance. So I ripped the trans apart, Tremec TKO (3550 series) looking for bad bearings or bushings and found that indeed the tail shaft bushing was well worn. The output shaft bearings are so large in this trans, when you shove the yoke around you really don't notice any movement. I left the key on and killed the batteries, so I am charging it up this morning and taking it or a test run this afternoon.

Here is what I've been up too at the same time: http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=20972

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » August 15, 2007, 11:07 am

If this doesn't solve the problem, my partner suggested one no one has mentioned yet. Clutch disc. If a small bit of friction material or one of the pucks has come loose it would throw the balance off. Closed up you wouldn't notice the vibration but as soon as you open the clutch to free wheel, it would shake the whole trans and driveline!

GAWD I hope it was just the tail shaft bushing.... :wink:

Ford4jack · Post by **Ford4jack** » August 15, 2007, 12:10 pm

Drifting the truck and playing with a Triumph project. :thumright:

Wondering what your gonna use to feed the triumph.
Had a bud that upgraded his duck with a set of delorto 40s I was able to get the stock 32 pumper's for my old tri grunt and it really brought it to life.

good luck on your truck.

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » August 16, 2007, 7:54 pm

We have a pair of Amal Concentrics with Mikuni stainless steel slides in them. They were set up for a Norton but should be just about right for this engine. I just picked up the cylinder this afternoon.

The tail shaft bushing didn't do squat, I pulled the rear down but not the third member. Checked the lash and gear mesh throught the fill hole in the back of the axle housing. Everything is well within tolarance, so. I pulled the driveline and took it back to the shop and had them spin it. On the lathe it balanced out well but as soon as they put the balance lathe in nuetral is vibrated. Replicating the same thing I have been feeling in the truck. Needless to say I should get a new driveline tomorrow.

OH! my chrome steelies showed up today. I can get the new dragrubber on them for some test and tune this weekend!

BigTim · Post by **BigTim** » August 16, 2007, 9:03 pm

ELpolacko wrote: On the lathe it balanced out well but as soon as they put the balance lathe in nuetral is vibrated. Replicating the same thing I have been feeling in the truck.

What causes them to neutral vibrate?

OH! my chrome steelies showed up today. I can get the new dragrubber on them for some test and tune this weekend!

What kind of shoes you gonna try?

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » August 16, 2007, 9:42 pm

Hope the new shaft solves it for ya!

I wish I was out having as much fun as you are!

Hell, I wish I could just get out and start to install that Dakota Kit! (still in the box

)

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » August 17, 2007, 12:36 pm

BigTim wrote:
ELpolacko wrote: On the lathe it balanced out well but as soon as they put the balance lathe in nuetral is vibrated. Replicating the same thing I have been feeling in the truck.

What causes them to neutral vibrate?

That's really odd. The only thing that makes sense would be that the shaft is flexing for some reason. :hm:

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » August 17, 2007, 4:37 pm

I dunno why, But it does.

Rubber wise, I am going to try the Nitto Drag Radials. I have used them on customers cars before and they have gotten good reviews. The only ones that people seem to have a problem with are the larger diameter low profile tires. I'm going to run a 275/60-15. I know people are raving about the MT Drag Radials right now, but, I hate MT products. Had nothing but bad luck in the past with their Sportsman tires on customers products. Just a brand predjudice thing (something you guys are real used to) My dislike for BF Goodrich products is right up there too..

BigTim · Post by **BigTim** » August 17, 2007, 9:01 pm

Let me know how the Nittos work out. I was thinking about getting a set of 18s the match the fronts and trying some of the ............oh whatever the size is they have out for the 2nd generation Lightnings. RIght now I am using the MTs on some 15" black wagon wheels, real ugly.

ELpolacko · Post by **ELpolacko** » August 18, 2007, 9:22 am

I would have to agree on looks, the Nitto looks like a normal tire..

Got everything together last night. Fought a few rounds with a leaky old Holley Red pump. Two shots at it but finally got it sealed (fingers crossed). Replaced the teflon buttons on my rear spring, some had cracked or were misssing all together. Did some general inspection and cleaning and greasing. I fired it up on the jack stands and lo and behold the drivleine spins perfectly true BUT with no load on it it knock and rings.

There is enough lash in the pinion that it rattles the driveline. Out on the road it's as smooth as an elevator ride but when you coast or stransition from accel to decel there is a low rumble still. Nowhere near what I was experiencing before but it's still there. I'm not sure I can get rid of this!! :evil:

I can't mess around any longer, so it will have to stay that way untill after my trip next week.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » August 19, 2007, 7:39 am

Couple of things come to mind. I recently replaced some u-joints and had to go thru about four at the parts store to find a good sone. Seems that company thought new caps should have play from the factory. I suggest anyone buying new ones check for play in the caps before even taking the things from the supplier. Not sure if this is because of crap coming from China or wherever or what the problem is. No quality control. The tranny bushing could be the problem and there is also the pinions bearings. If pinion bearings, are loose it should be easy to tell. Chock the wheels, throw tranny into nuetral, crawl underneath and see if you can move the input yoke on the third member. Hopefully, the pinion was set up with a solid spacer, and not a crush sleeve, as it should be. With heavy hammering, you can loosen a crush sleeve, if it was set up tight enough. I have also ruined ujoints with heavy hammering. Doesn't neccesarily show up as being loose, but you will have indentions in the caps where the needle bearings ride. To check this you need to pull the drive shaft and feel the u joint as you move it to the extremes.

Rich

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » August 19, 2007, 7:42 am

Sorry, should have prof read the previous post before posting. I meant to say, if the crush sleeve wasn't set up tight enough it could be affected by heavy hammering, which would furhter loosen it.

Rich