Some newbie Slick questions

[Arrowhead]

Hello,

I just found this site and joined recently. I only "discovered" the slicks in the last year or two. I knew of the body style, but have grown to like the unibody design. So, if I was looking for a short bed unibody, it looks like '61-'63 are the only years it was made, correct? How about he big back window, any specific years? I'm assuming it was an option, was it a trim level or just a option? Are there different trim levels?

Someone pointed out to me early years had a step inside the door and later years did not. Was the step removed in the later years after unibody? In other words, all unibodys have the step, correct?

Is there anything to watch out for as far as "unobtainium" parts? I live up in the Northeast and have restored a '70 Mustang and a '55 TBird among others, so rust doesn't scare me. But there are always some pieces that are not available and must be made by hand on almost every car or truck. Anything to watch for in shopping for a shell? I would probably build a hot rod truck, so the drivetrain and suspension isn't a big deal. I understand the unibody has some issues with the area of the cab vs bed flexing and failing.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks.

George

[rbeck204]

Welcome.

I have a 61 short unibody. They were only made 61-63 and the inner step was on 61-64 trucks. 65-66 had no inner step (except big trucks, 4x4's had the earlier steps. not sure of all the exact details).

I added a rear cab support from a regular 61-64 non uni cab to address the cab/bed flex issue. Bolted right to uni frame and mounts under the gas tank were used. Everything lined up and should stop any flex concerns.

BBW was an option on custom cabs and I believe it was available 61-63.

Inner floor step trim, under dash cluster custom cab stainless trim through switches (64 only), deluxe heaters are some of the tougher things to find.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask. Lots of knowledge on this site.

Rich

[unibody madness]

Welcome to the madness
Your biggest problem will be finding a decent project in your neck of the woods.
I have four unibodies in various states of rebuild,some better than others. Out west they seem to be more plentifull. For example my parts truck appears to be in a lot better shape than some projects I have seen, and is only a parts truck because I took the engine out for another build.
John

[Arrowhead]

Thanks! Lots of great information. Should I be prepared to pay a premium for a unibody considering the limited availability? Say compared to a similar condition and year C10?

[Uncle Skip]

Welcome from Baja Texas. It is well worth your money to buy as rust free a truck as you can find and pay a little more for it. Trust me, in the long run you'll be glad you did both from the saved money perspective to the saved hours of extra work perspective.
C10?????
A C10 is brand X and we don't do brand X here. But if you listen closely when you walk by one you can actually hear it rust.
Unibodies are unique and cool. If that's what you like, go for it. I can promise you that when you pull up to the stop light, you're pretty much guaranteed to have the only one in town.
Glad to have you in the family.
Uncle Skip

[Arrowhead]

Sorry for the X brand reference, just trying to get a feel for the market and what I look for / how much I can expect to pay.

For example, I found this one and they wanted $1,800 with no engine or trans. I'm thinking $800 would be a stretch, but maybe not do to how hard parts might be to come by.

[Toyz]

Welcome! No such thing as "unobtainium" for unis, unless it is a Mercury! Parts can be a little hard to find and more than a little expensive. The inside steps were utilized on the pickups thru '66 on some models. The early step plates were a slightly different design. As Skip stated; it is well worth avoiding those with torque box or cab mount problems unless you really like never-ending rust repair. Rust is also common around the drip rails and can be problematic due to the multiple seams involved.Here in Texas, the further north, the more likely to find solid trucks and parts. Read the tips and techniques; almost anything you need to know is there. We like to help others cursed with our desease; so feel free to ask.
The short unis do command a premium but they are around; even bbw's. Based on local conditions, I would not consider $1800 for the truck you described.
Paul

[luckystiff]

I found my 62 bbw uni 2 miles from my house. Kid wanted $1500 and it had been in the local thrifty paper for over a month. I went knowing it would be rusty(not knowing it was a BBW) and prepared to offer half his asking price. I got there and I was right it needs floors/steps and some other stuff but then other usual rust areas are solid. with the surprise of the bbw I was still in for around half the asking price. asked his bottom dollar and bought the truck for $700. while loading traded the 292/3spd that had been sitting out under a few tarps for a rebuilt AOD to another local guy. sold the front and rear suspension and paid for the jag front suspension going under it with that money. bought a disc explorer rear for another $200. as it sits i'm still not quite at the $1000 mark yet. I justified buying a cheap rusty truck with the thought that it was gonna get a bunch of cutting and welding done on it anyhow. I work in a hot rod shop so it's not unlike half the stuff through the doors. oh and I'm a cheap ass anyhow. my goal is to try and do the whole build on a $10k budget. the Lincoln Mark VIII drivetrain swap is probably gonna eat 20% of that or more...ken....

[kevin steidle]

from cobleskill NY

[bruceandersson]

Sounds like you have experience with rust. I am from the Midwest and will always pay more for a vehicle that does not have rust issues. Take the time you'd be spending cutting out and replacing panels and head down south to find your truck. I've seen great vehicles from Tennessee on down as long as they are not on the coast. West of the Mississippi has a lot of solid vehicles as well. The two trucks I have right now are from Nevada and Texas.

[jamesdfo]

The one part that is bordering on unobtanium is good Uni tailgates, most are rusty, or beat

here is some info on the 61-64's, and on the differences between cabs.......both links can be found as stickys in the Hints and Tricks section

61-64 common questions and modifications
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47

cabs. will it fit ?
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1705



Cheers!
James

[Arrowhead]

from cobleskill NY

Thanks! My sister lives in Central Bridge and my wife is from Duanesburg.

Appreciate all the responses, lots to take in.

Not sure what direction I will take. I have a hot rod that I will be most likely selling next year so I wanted to get back into a pickup. Keep telling myself I'll be happy with just a cool truck to cruise, but then my brain starts wandering and dreaming up custom frames and suspensions. I have a Lincoln Mark VIII IRS just sitting waiting to be put in something.

This one really got me going and it was for sale - $14K. But it had a chevy drive train and questionable bodywork, questionable paperwork too. I really liked it, but the more I thought about it and picked it apart, felt it wasn't for me.

[ThinLizzy13]

from Syracuse!
Considering our area it is hard to find solid trucks. All the slicks I've gotten have been from out of state.
Goodluck with your search!

[jwh f-100]

Welcome from Equinunk PA/Deposit NY!!!

If I decided to dive into another truck Id find a real nice truck and have it shipped... No question about it.. You would pay more on rust repair then having a solid truck shipped...

[PFM-64f100]

Someone pointed out to me early years had a step inside the door and later years did not.

Crewcabs had a step in the rear and none in the front. They basically took 2 cabs to make one. Just throwing that out there for your knowledge. Also Ford started making crewcabs in 65 but not for public just for forrest, railroad, etc... Before 65 most crewcabs were crown/coach built mostly with extrenal hindges.

I wish you luck on your search..