which adhesive to use????

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ras4434

which adhesive to use????

Post by ras4434 »

I just got a new set of door seals from DC. Now I need to know which adhesive to use. I heard of some NOT to use but what can I pick up from NAPA or Atuozone that would work? I want to do it once and do it right. If I end up doing door seals again it will be with the next slick in line, not this one.
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Uncle Skip
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Post by Uncle Skip »

3-M Black weatherstrip adhesive. Or as we call it donw here, gorilla snot.
Be sure to tape off the area on the door you're going to glue, wash your weatherstrip in soap and water and let it dry for a couple of days.
It is much easier to work on if the door is off the truck, laying on a table with some soft carpet on it.
Work in about 1 foot long increments.
Put the gorilla snot on both the rubber and the door jamb, let it sit according to directions and then press it together.
I followed up with some blue tape to hold things down while I moved to the next section.
Also, I started with the bottom section that has the rubber "plugins", then up to the inside of the door where the hinge is, then around the outside of the door, over the top and then down to the hinge area where the original piece is glued.
Take your time, if you get frustrated, STOP, rest, and then go back to work after you've had time to settle down.
Keep a rag with some thinner on it to keep your fingers clean.
I can get one little spot on me and it migrates to my arm pits, my crotch, the bottoms of my feet, well, you get the picture.
It gets all over everything if you're not careful and it does not come off easily.
Good luck.
U@ss
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

Yes I dont think you can go past 3-M,but I used 3-M super weatherstrip adhesive "yellow" sticks like s#!*t to a blanket :) ,I only did it two days ago and the drivers door (r/hand side) binds on the curved thin edge of the "A" pillar and wont close :( .I dont remember what the original rubber looked like but there`s no way this thing is going to close,any suggestions
please or just trim rubber to fit.

Alan[/quote]
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

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ras4434

Post by ras4434 »

U@ss: thanks. I am not going to take the doors off but can lift one side up so I can sit on a chair and do the bottoms and then move up the inside. I will get the 3-M tomorrow and give it a try Sunday after church. Maybe I will say a prayer first instead of asking for forgiveness after the frustration and less than kind words. I will keep the rag with thinner on it handy.

Alan: I actually had the doors on my previous slick done several years ago and needed to "help" the doors close for the first couple of weeks. After that they never leaked or "whistled" when the air ran through. Probably the best upgrade or fix I did onthe truck in 25 years I had her. Good Luck.
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

ras4434 wrote:Alan: I actually had the doors on my previous slick done several years ago and needed to "help" the doors close for the first couple of weeks. After that they never leaked or "whistled" when the air ran through. Probably the best upgrade or fix I did onthe truck in 25 years I had her. Good Luck.


ras4434:how much help?
Alan
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
ras4434

Post by ras4434 »

Alan; I would say I slammed the door fairly hard. I was aware not to slam so hard as to spring the door or warp it but I definatly was not gentle. I will let you know how hard I have to "help" these when I get the gasket on. Did you get the seals from Dennis Carpenter? I understand other manufacturers have less than stellar reputations for quality control.
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

ras4434, I would say I slammed the door very hard just a while ago and no way jose.I checked up and I got the strip from NPD the invoice reads
weatherstrip,door ,good repro,/dwp 2110 61 $44.95 USD. good repro maybe the problem.So what the heck I trimmed the front part that was hitting "A" pillar, BANG NU, BANG NU , BANG NU, :idea: ,trim rubber hitting"B" pillar, BANG NU, BANG NU, BANG NU, :idea: ,kill myself, BANG NU, BANG NU, BANG NU,concluded this is not going to fit :x .Is the profile of the rubber the same all the way around, cuss.gif bang.gif .


Alan :cry:
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
ras4434

Post by ras4434 »

The frofile stays the same except for two spots where it gets thicker and is formed (probably to get around the windows). Are both doors the same or is this a problem on just one?
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

ras4434 wrote:The frofile stays the same except for two spots where it gets thicker and is formed (probably to get around the windows). Are both doors the same or is this a problem on just one?
.

It`s only the r/hand door, the other no problems.The door it self has tight spots and spots you can put your finger in from the inside that is, but doesn`t look to bad from out side
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
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