My steering is crap. Where to start?
My steering is crap. Where to start?
I know I have posed this question in a couple posts but I am hoping to figure out where to start.
I know tie rod ends would be an easy job but they are like $40 a piece.
Looks like the shotgun approach will get spendy.
It steers fine around corners with no suprises but while driving
it seems to wander left to right and I have to correct it to keep it strait.
The steering wheel seems tight but the wheels themselves seem to have
left to right slop.
What things should I look at?
steering box?
king pins?
tierod ends?
power assist unit?
weight of engine and missing crossmember?
whats most likely?
Kingpin on passenger side has a little play. Wheel will rock top to bottom about 1/16" There is no play when you rock the wheel front to back but the tie rod ends roll back and forth on their ball sockets
The box seems tight compared to all the horrible Torino boxes I have owned
I know tie rod ends would be an easy job but they are like $40 a piece.
Looks like the shotgun approach will get spendy.
It steers fine around corners with no suprises but while driving
it seems to wander left to right and I have to correct it to keep it strait.
The steering wheel seems tight but the wheels themselves seem to have
left to right slop.
What things should I look at?
steering box?
king pins?
tierod ends?
power assist unit?
weight of engine and missing crossmember?
whats most likely?
Kingpin on passenger side has a little play. Wheel will rock top to bottom about 1/16" There is no play when you rock the wheel front to back but the tie rod ends roll back and forth on their ball sockets
The box seems tight compared to all the horrible Torino boxes I have owned
Someday I'll get another slick
Check the drag link too. My tie rod ends are tight, king pins good, drag link bad. I have to be on it all the time because you combine the bad rag link with the bump steer - well you get the point. I would also get after the tie rod ends next if not first. I seem to remember you already did the eye bushings so those won't be it.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- Johnny Canuck
- Posts: 8288
- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.
Heavyhauler wrote:What things should I look at?
steering box?
king pins?
tierod ends?
power assist unit?
weight of engine and missing crossmember?
Greg D wrote:Check the drag link too. My tie rod ends are tight, king pins good, drag link bad. I have to be on it all the time because you combine the bad rag link with the bump steer - well you get the point.
All the above. Now you know why I don't own a straight axle .
Y'know I am starting to think them Canadians are out to get Doc. Can't imagine why.
It's a race.. Will hell freeze over or will JC finish his truck first. Stay tuned..
Phil, one item you missed was the drag link. Play in the steering box, loose drag link, loose tie rod ends can all significantly add sloppiness to steering. Also a fairly low tire can make the truck wander to that side.
With the wheel off, you can see better as to what is or isn't moving when you try to wiggle the wheel in the 12 to 6 o'clock axis and the 9 to 3 o'clock axis.
With the wheel off, you can see better as to what is or isn't moving when you try to wiggle the wheel in the 12 to 6 o'clock axis and the 9 to 3 o'clock axis.
Gene
1961 Intregal cab SWB 223 (getting 302 & TIB)
1969 LWB 302 automatic (Donor for the '61)
2000 F150 XLT SWB (Daily Driver)
1961 Intregal cab SWB 223 (getting 302 & TIB)
1969 LWB 302 automatic (Donor for the '61)
2000 F150 XLT SWB (Daily Driver)
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
I think that missing cross member has to be a problem.listen carefully I can only say this once!, have you had a wheel alignment done,sorry have to go. Alan
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
Old king pics combined with wide tires are a nice rut-grabbing combo, from my experience. But other worn steering linkage pieces can definitely do that too.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
- ripsnorter
- Posts: 607
- Joined: November 12, 2006, 5:23 am
- Location: Washington State
I've got about the same problem heavy. (phil?)
my '62 drives just fine, doesnt really pull at all, but it wanders a lot. If I'm not paying attention I find I'm back and forth hitting both lines of my lane. (one of these days I'm going to get pulled over for drunk driving)
I while back I went through and checked for kingpin play etc, seemed fine. I repacked the bearings, (which I had just done a few months before) however I did NOT replace any of the races or seals. I have an inkling my problem might be that the seals are shot at the back of the spindle, grease is slowly working its way out and giving just a tiny bit of play in the bearings, which is causing my steering to wander just a bit.
My only real basis for this is that after I packed the bearings, and tightened everything down it drove just fine. After a few weeks it started to wander again.
my '62 drives just fine, doesnt really pull at all, but it wanders a lot. If I'm not paying attention I find I'm back and forth hitting both lines of my lane. (one of these days I'm going to get pulled over for drunk driving)
I while back I went through and checked for kingpin play etc, seemed fine. I repacked the bearings, (which I had just done a few months before) however I did NOT replace any of the races or seals. I have an inkling my problem might be that the seals are shot at the back of the spindle, grease is slowly working its way out and giving just a tiny bit of play in the bearings, which is causing my steering to wander just a bit.
My only real basis for this is that after I packed the bearings, and tightened everything down it drove just fine. After a few weeks it started to wander again.
ripsnorter wrote:I've got about the same problem heavy. (phil?)
my '62 drives just fine, doesnt really pull at all, but it wanders a lot. If I'm not paying attention I find I'm back and forth hitting both lines of my lane. (one of these days I'm going to get pulled over for drunk driving)
I while back I went through and checked for kingpin play etc, seemed fine. I repacked the bearings, (which I had just done a few months before) however I did NOT replace any of the races or seals. I have an inkling my problem might be that the seals are shot at the back of the spindle, grease is slowly working its way out and giving just a tiny bit of play in the bearings, which is causing my steering to wander just a bit.
My only real basis for this is that after I packed the bearings, and tightened everything down it drove just fine. After a few weeks it started to wander again.
New bearings and races with my disk swap.
Hmm I'll do some deectiving tonight but it sounds like the answer to where on my list to I start is "yes"
*out comes the parts shotgun.
Someday I'll get another slick
fmartin_gila wrote:Those 40 + year old springs sag somewhat also and that changes the caster. I had to install 2 1/2 degree caster shims in mine to be able to keep it in a lane.
Fred
How does caster change in a strait axle?
Isn't it all relative to set axle dimensions VS ride ht?
Someday I'll get another slick
-
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
Caster is held by the small area where the axle bolts to the springs. Angle shims have been used since the start of this type of suspension to set caster in the front and pinion angle in the rear. I don't know how to explain it, it just changes as the springs age, and usually angle has to be added.
Fred
Fred
fmartin_gila wrote:Caster is held by the small area where the axle bolts to the springs. Angle shims have been used since the start of this type of suspension to set caster in the front and pinion angle in the rear. I don't know how to explain it, it just changes as the springs age, and usually angle has to be added.
Fred
Thanks Fred.
I talked to my buddy last night that built that blue Effie.
He said its more of an inherant flaw in the caster that caused guys to use shims. Regardless I may try it.
He offered some free things to try, maybe you'll think its basic but then I need strait axle basics at this point:
Jack up one side and try to move the wheel like your turning. If it moves there is a tie rod end issue.
Hands at 12 and 6 and wiggle looking for kingpin play.
Have a buddy jerk the wheel L to R and look for loose stuff
Grease the kingpins, If they won't take grease use a torch to heat the axle some while pumping.
I may fab a crossmember soon- I don't believe this is my issue currently (can't be good but) The deflection happens in a straitline drive on smooth highway/streets with no moving of the steering wheel. No reason for side to side flex
I need to look over the power assist ball socket/drag link junction.
Steering box seems fine.
Gave me a tip to check toe as well.
jack up the truck and spin the tires while scribing a line in the treads center.
Measure at the bottom of the tire line to line, now measure front and
rear Front dimension should be 1/8" less
Thanks for all your suggestions guys!!
Comments?
Someday I'll get another slick
- 64fordf100292v8
- Posts: 150
- Joined: July 20, 2006, 6:34 pm
- Location: Billings, MT
Ive replaced everything on my 64 and it drives great now. Just got done taking it on a 300 mile camping trip though a bunch of mountain passes and switchbacks. Steered perfectly.
Your truck sits alot higher in the rear which takes caster out of your front axle. I would defintaly install some 2 to 4 degree shims to rotate the top of the kingpin towards the rear of the truck.
Another thing that may be wrong is maybe your power steering add on is too sensitive. The kit that Classic Performance Products makes states in the instructions that you have to re-work whatever power steering pump you use to operate at a lower pressure or use an adjustable regulator inline. Maybe your pump produces too much pressure and its overly sensitive???
Just my
Your truck sits alot higher in the rear which takes caster out of your front axle. I would defintaly install some 2 to 4 degree shims to rotate the top of the kingpin towards the rear of the truck.
Another thing that may be wrong is maybe your power steering add on is too sensitive. The kit that Classic Performance Products makes states in the instructions that you have to re-work whatever power steering pump you use to operate at a lower pressure or use an adjustable regulator inline. Maybe your pump produces too much pressure and its overly sensitive???
Just my
-
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: March 31, 2007, 11:34 am
- Location: Foxfield Colorado
- Contact:
64fordf100292v8 wrote:Ive replaced everything on my 64 and it drives great now. Just got done taking it on a 300 mile camping trip though a bunch of mountain passes and switchbacks. Steered perfectly.
Your truck sits alot higher in the rear which takes caster out of your front axle. I would defintaly install some 2 to 4 degree shims to rotate the top of the kingpin towards the rear of the truck.
Another thing that may be wrong is maybe your power steering add on is too sensitive. The kit that Classic Performance Products makes states in the instructions that you have to re-work whatever power steering pump you use to operate at a lower pressure or use an adjustable regulator inline. Maybe your pump produces too much pressure and its overly sensitive???
I spent about 300 bucks on everything up front except king pins, they are still good as new so it was not needed. new brakes and links etc etc, I had gear box out and measured rolling resistance it was just as good as new and nice and smooth.
Just my
- 64fordf100292v8
- Posts: 150
- Joined: July 20, 2006, 6:34 pm
- Location: Billings, MT