Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Well it was warmer today (mid-40's) but rainy. I went out in between rain showers and started taking my bed apart. I started with the tailgate as there was a rusted out area on the right inner brace that I need to repair. Removed the trailer hitch and the rear bumper. Then the rain started in earnest. I am going to remove the bed wood and take the bed off so that I can lower the rear 4 inches. I also need to repair the lower outer passenger side cab corner and while I am at it, clean up the rusty frame and maybe get some paint on it. The tailgate is in really good condition, there is only one small dent on the outside just above the latch handle. I am going to get it sanded down and primed this week.
Steve-
Steve-
Last edited by SteveCanup on October 28, 2017, 12:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Where did you get those door panels???
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
The door panels were "home-made." I bought 2 yards of heavy black vinyl from Joanne's Fabric and cut the two panels out. My wife sewed the edges with her basic sewing machine. The bottom part of the door is 1/8 inch oak that I cut out (to save my metal panels). The vinyl was adhered to the door with contact cement from Walmart ($10).
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
This post has been deleted...it was no longer relevant....
Last edited by SteveCanup on October 28, 2017, 12:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- therealjoeshmoe
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
is the wood in the bed just installed over the metal floor?
pretty cool idea if you got a rotted out bed and dont know how to weld..
gives me ideas lol
pretty cool idea if you got a rotted out bed and dont know how to weld..
gives me ideas lol
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- Posts: 1096
- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Yep...the bed floor was pretty rotted out. The crossmembers are in good condition. I used treated decking lumber. I let it dry out for about a month, put a coat of black rustoleum on it and installed it with 1 1/2 inch carriage bolts. I personally like the look of wood in the bed, and it is easy to repair or touch up. I use my truck...haul lumber, gravel etc. I am going to clean the underside of the bed and do some rust repair over the next month or so. It's rainy and icy here today so I will have to wait a few more days to get the bed off. I'm thinking about making a roll pan for the rear. I like the look without the bumper...but my rear bumper is in really good condition.
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Took the bed off this a.m. Bed bolts were badly rusted, and fought me all of the way. Getting ready to install lowering shackles etc. There are some pretty nasty rusted bolts to deal with Pics to follow...
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Here's where I started...
Old Shackles and they were RUSTY!
New shackles that will be installed. Test fitting...
This is the front rear spring hanger. I will grind out the rivets and turn this up-side down...
Original height...I forgot to get a final pic of the height...which will be at 21 1/2 inches
Front shackle rivets ground off and punched out...
Rear lowering shackles installed. I replaced the lower bolts with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts...
Passenger side spring hanger rebolted to the frame with 3/8 inch grade 8 bolts. I have seen this done differently, but I had three of the four holes that aligned and I did not want to drill any more holes through the frame. I might go back and hit it with the welder just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.
Different angle of the front spring hanger reversed...
I took it for a ride to make sure that there would be no vibration in the drivetrain. I did not have a pinion angle gauge to make sure that my axle was still at the right angle. I put a 4 inch torpedo level on the drive shaft before I began and put a mark on the bubble with a sharpie to help check the angle. The bubble was very close to the same mark after I finished lowering it. Like I mentioned earlier it lowered the rear a total of 5 inches.
Now on to the bed. It has some rust issues that need to be taken care of and while I have it off I have a cab corner that is rusted out.
MORE TO COME...LATER...
Steve-
Old Shackles and they were RUSTY!
New shackles that will be installed. Test fitting...
This is the front rear spring hanger. I will grind out the rivets and turn this up-side down...
Original height...I forgot to get a final pic of the height...which will be at 21 1/2 inches
Front shackle rivets ground off and punched out...
Rear lowering shackles installed. I replaced the lower bolts with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts...
Passenger side spring hanger rebolted to the frame with 3/8 inch grade 8 bolts. I have seen this done differently, but I had three of the four holes that aligned and I did not want to drill any more holes through the frame. I might go back and hit it with the welder just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.
Different angle of the front spring hanger reversed...
I took it for a ride to make sure that there would be no vibration in the drivetrain. I did not have a pinion angle gauge to make sure that my axle was still at the right angle. I put a 4 inch torpedo level on the drive shaft before I began and put a mark on the bubble with a sharpie to help check the angle. The bubble was very close to the same mark after I finished lowering it. Like I mentioned earlier it lowered the rear a total of 5 inches.
Now on to the bed. It has some rust issues that need to be taken care of and while I have it off I have a cab corner that is rusted out.
MORE TO COME...LATER...
Steve-
Last edited by SteveCanup on October 28, 2017, 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 1096
- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Cleaned and painted the frame today...
Getting ready to install a Mustang gas tank under the bed.
Stay tuned....
Getting ready to install a Mustang gas tank under the bed.
Stay tuned....
Last edited by SteveCanup on October 28, 2017, 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Mustang gas tank ordered and will be here late next week. Anyone else done the gas tank relocation? I'm a little hazy about the filler neck, but I'm sure I can figure it out. Pics to come...
Steve-
Steve-
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
"One Test Result is Worth One Thousand Expert Opinions" - Werner von Braun
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- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Thanks Casey 65. I read his post "Mustang Gas Tank Install" in the "Hints and Tips" section and it was very helpful. I'm just not sure about how the filler neck is assembled. I am going to order a boat filler neck to go into or onto the bed floor, but I didn't understand how the filler neck from the tank and the boat neck are put together... are they welded? Or is there a rubber hose clamped between the two? That was the only part that was unclear to me. Any input from anyone would be appreciated.
Steve-
Steve-
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
FYI, since these hints and tips have been written, there has been some new tanks OR i should say other options for tanks available. These options may allow for side fill if you want and possibly more capacity. I am interested in doing this upgrade myself and been checking options.
I'm not sure where I read this recent stuff but i think "Classic Trucks" online.
just a heads up.
keep posting your pics. very helpful to all.
The framework looks great, paint made a giant difference.
I'm not sure where I read this recent stuff but i think "Classic Trucks" online.
just a heads up.
keep posting your pics. very helpful to all.
The framework looks great, paint made a giant difference.
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- Posts: 1096
- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
- Location: Wytheville, Virginia
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- Posts: 1096
- Joined: November 7, 2014, 11:08 pm
- Location: Wytheville, Virginia
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Thanks Bird 55... There are some who are using the Bronco (and Bronco II) gas tanks that put the filler neck to one side. I am finding that the mustang gas tank install (for me) to be the easiest. I like the idea of putting a "filler door" on the side of the bed, but I do not possess the welding skills to pull that off. I also like the idea of having the filler at the rear so that I can just pull up to the gas pump from any direction. That being said... that's what is so great about this hobby (and this site) is the plethora of ideas that are out there. Some of these guys are pretty smart and have great ideas.
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
I agree with you about the lack of fab skills needed to put the filler on the side. BUT, what I have seen still puts the filler in the floor but on the side of the floor on a flat panel section. This (to me) might be an even simpler thing to consider since it doesn't involve cutting a "corrugated" metal bed floor, in my case. To me it tucks the filler in an out of the way area and one might not need to even drop the tailgate. again just something to consider. Still have to pull up to the same side pump too but I'm used to that anyway.
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
That's a good idea and I would do that, but my bed floor is rotted out (thus the wood bed) and, for me, it will be pretty simple to put the filler in the middle...I hope.
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
The email notice from UPS informs me that my gas tank will be delivered today. Yay...But there is a "clipper" weather system coming through, so I don't know if I will get much done today. Tomorrow's weather is gong to be better. Installation will occur this week and pics will be taken. Stay tuned....
Steve-
Steve-
Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Very nice build, I can't wait to see it all lowered. I am about to do the mustsng gas tank swap and was thinking of putting the filler behind the license plate somehow, I still need to figure that out once I get it
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Re: Steve's 64 Short-bed Project
Today was Gas Tank Installation day...it was cold and windy but I tucked up under my little carport and persevered...Here's the tank, a '64-'68 mustang gas tank with sending unit...
Removed the rear cross member by grinding out rivet heads and beating them out with BFH...nasty little rivets did not want to come out...but they did...
Welded in some small pieces of angle iron and a cross piece of angle iron. I purchased some 1 inch wide butyl tape from Lowes Hardware (for $4) to put between the tank and the cross member...
Tank ready to install...
Tank in place...several views...
I reused the original '64 F-100 filler neck with a piece of rubber gas hose to connect it to the tank. I will shorten this when I get the bed on...
Gas line (5/16 inch) and sending unit connected...
I poured a couple of gallons of gas in and checked for leaks. Thankfully no leaks, started right up. Now to repair the rusted out cab corner and install the bed...
Thanks for looking...more to come...stay tuned...
Steve-
Removed the rear cross member by grinding out rivet heads and beating them out with BFH...nasty little rivets did not want to come out...but they did...
Welded in some small pieces of angle iron and a cross piece of angle iron. I purchased some 1 inch wide butyl tape from Lowes Hardware (for $4) to put between the tank and the cross member...
Tank ready to install...
Tank in place...several views...
I reused the original '64 F-100 filler neck with a piece of rubber gas hose to connect it to the tank. I will shorten this when I get the bed on...
Gas line (5/16 inch) and sending unit connected...
I poured a couple of gallons of gas in and checked for leaks. Thankfully no leaks, started right up. Now to repair the rusted out cab corner and install the bed...
Thanks for looking...more to come...stay tuned...
Steve-
Last edited by SteveCanup on October 28, 2017, 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.