Slick 60's

Is the 67-71 M/C the direct bolt in,with no rod adjustments needed??
Thanks,
Dan
Also is a proportioning valve needed with all drums? The truck is a 250....

Mr. Jones,
I am currently working on a 73 to 66 front disc swap on my slick. I am using a rebuilt, 73, two pot, manual M/C from NAPA. The rod that came with the M/C is about an inch to long for my original 66 pedals. So I was looking around online and found this adjustable push rod from John's Mustang. http://johnsmustang.com/Master-Cylinder ... 69-Mustang After talking with a very friendly salesman, I decided to try this adjustable rod. I haven't received the new rod yet and, I am not sure how easily the non-adjusting rod will come out of the rebuilt M/C but can keep you informed if you would like.
Justin

Dan, I would suggest the proportioning valve to match the application. You could try it without one, but will probably need it for optimum braking.
One caveat; be sure to get an all-drum application m/c.
Paul

i put a 2 pot m/c on my 64 and when i hit the brakes hard it locks the right front
if i had it 2 do again and i'm doing that now, i'm putting a proportioning valve on
i have to have it now, but i wish i'd done it earlier
hope this helps, Jeff

So far the info is looking good,I didn't mention that the truck is a 65-250.I'm doing some work on this ladies house and she needs her slick made safe to drive.1st.is all new brakes,and that amounts to everything,M/C,lines,drums,rubber lines etc.I'm thinking pre-bent lines vs.me making them will be less money.Anyone used these befor?
Also I'm sure I've read some ones post where the m/c installed w/o any rod adjustments???
The truck is staying all drums,no disc

Thanks to all,
Dan

Not sure what you charge per hour, but it is much less expensive to bend your own lines if you just compare material costs. Easiest is to buy the stock lengths and make them fit. If you had to buy an expensive flaring tool, it would be less expensive to buy the pre-bent lines.

Without knowing more details, my first thought is that a proportioning valve is not going to help a single wheel locking problem.
Paul

I agree with with Toys, make sure you buy all new rubber hoses as first order of business

As far as a locking wheel; if hoses are new and no lines are restricted, and new springs properly installed, then a correct application "combo" valve might mask the base problem. With no residual valves, equal and correct shoe adjustment is a necessity. The 10 psi residual valves will overcome the brake springs to a degree, allowing minor cylinder piston travel to apply the shoes on a more uniform basis.
One extra concern; some people use a hydraulic actuated brake lamp switch set to switch at lower pressures than original. If this switch is installed after the residual or combo valves, the brake lamps tend to stay illuminated.
Back to Mr. Jones; I know of no setup which doesn't require modification of the various linkage on your application. There are probably some kits around; i am just not aware of them, especially drum/drum.

Paul

I think 67 was a one year only m/c.

I thought that a four drum setup does not require a proportioning valve, the front uses a different size wheel cylinder to maintain brake bias.

Single or dual m/c makes no difference to the wheel cylinders, they don't know where the fluid is coming from.

Yep, yep, and yep. Only potential need would be based on the differences between applications. As stated, there IS advantages to the residual valve, and since most OEM's utilize the " combo" valve; it is an efficient, if not optimum solution.
Paul

I'd add a booster. Boosted drum/drum with a dual pot MC and appropriate proportioning valve for this system. I'd visit the local pick and pull and get a system off a similar truck and use those parts for a template and as core items. Or you could buy a new system from masterpowerbrake.comm. They will send the correct MC, booster and prop valve for your application. IMHO!

So, I got the adjustable pushrod installed into the rebuilt M/C yesterday. Taking the original rod out of the M/C was a serious pain in the butt. I will never again install a pushrod without doing some measuring first. The setup looks like it should work well. I also started plumbing the new lines. This is my first time cutting bending and flaring but it is pretty straight forward and simple. Although I haven't put any pressure on the system so I don't know how my fittings will hold up. NAPA said they will return the rental fee when I returned the flaring tool if I had used their's. Ended up borrowing my brothers kit though. Just a little update for you Mr. Jones, if you were thinking of going this same route.
Justin