Cross cab support

[64 f100]

I've been thinking on this for some time, as in the later model trucks, Ford used a single piece across from one side to the other. They did away with the box arrangement that caused so much of a rust problem by holding dirt . Once the dirt was wet it stayed that way for a long time resulting in rust issues for us. I know, that replacing this box system with a single piece from a later Ford truck would not be correct for a restoration. That being said, I think it would be a better solution than paying over a hundred for repair pieces that are hard to install and often not installed right from what I've seen. This would also eliminate further major rust issues from same area, hopefully.

Rich

[64 f100]

No comments on this? I am surprised as I would think this would be of interest considering the cost of the repop repair pieces. It might even be possible to find a new piece for the later trucks. Just get rid of the old and install the new, plus no more rust encapsulation .

Rich

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

Rich I have seen the 73/79 center cab supports are split in half so you would only need 1 then split in half to do 1 truck,, anytime buying a 65/72 cab or truck from us I tell them to drill a 5/16 hole towards the end so it drains out, we do it and last one I did on my ranger it left a pile of dirt about 4" high,, I have cut some used ones out for people

[64 f100]

Tom, I've often thought that if it isn't already rusted out it will be at some time in the future. I've also been playing with the same basic idea as your 5/16 hole, but think it would be better to make the hole u-shaped and bigger. That way , you can get up in there with a wire brush and a paint brush with something like por-15. I really don't think the brace needs to be that heavy or doubled up as it is, the floor is already very strong.

Rich

[Truckfarmer2]

I always drill a 1/2" hole at the bottom of the that brace. My truck came from New Mexico and when I drilled it, I was reward with a large pile of dark brown sand

[BarnieTrk]

I always drill a 1/2" hole at the bottom of the that brace. My truck came from New Mexico and when I drilled it, I was reward with a large pile of dark brown sand

I also drilled a 1/2" hole near each end to allow drainage. About twice a year, I use a section of bent coat hanger and a pressurized air hose to clean out the support. I can get the air nozzle up at the cab support & floorboard gap while running the wire up & inside the drilled hole to drag out most dirt/debris.

Another suggestion - clean/clear the drains at the door bottoms, the drains just inside the cab corners and the drains at the front kick vents. I usually will run the shop vac inside and to the bottom of the kick vents, which can collect leaves/junk that makes it in via the cowl grill openings. Just my

BarnieTrk

[64 f100]

Along the same line of thought as the vent areas, the ledge above the front fenders where the cowl is , also collects dirt and will rust out. Not a problem you see very often, but does happen. Also clean out the area behind the seat in the cab corners. Best done with the tank out and involves coat hanger and vacuum with homemade attachments for best results. Then some kind wire brush ( like steel brushes used to clean passages in blocks ) and more vacuuming. Follow this up[ with poor fifteen on a wire with swab on the end. Very messy.

Rich

[bobenhotep]

Good thread, I was planning on drilling holes and adding rubber expansion plugs to seal them up in strategic locations, after I weld in new running boards and fix various other rust monster wounds.

Dan

[BarnieTrk]

Dan,

Why would you install rubber plugs?

I just leave the holes I drilled open to the air and be able to drain if moisture gets inside.......

BarnieTrk

[64 f100]

I agree with leaving those open. The closed situation is what caused the problem to start with.

Rich

[bobenhotep]

That's true, it's not like I engage in fording operations where I would want to keep water out. If water is getting in it more than likely is coming from the top down.

Dan

[64 f100]

It's not so much a matter of keeping water out as keeping it dry. Accumulated dirt that gets wet and stays that way is a major source of rust in these trucks. or anything that holds water, paper, rags, leaves , wood etc.. Keep it clean and don't let it accumulate and it most likely will never rust out again, One of the major setbacks in rust repair is quality of the repair panels. Some I've seen in past years have had a lot of tin in those. Quality is hard to see from the standpoint of what the metal is made from. I read an article on what is best in the way of metal, I believe it was in Hot Rod magazine. I wish I could find it again, but there are a couple of things I seem to remember that stuck with me. One was that there is a difference in stamped metal and rolled metal, and that one is better than the other because one is more consistent in the thickness of the metal. The second thing mentioned that I remember was that aluminized metal is better as it doesn't rust as badly. I doubt that any of the people making repair panels has gone to the length to research these things or make sure what they sell is up to these standards. I often try and use what I have to make what I need out of panels I cut from scraps cut from parted out trucks. Only, I am not good enough to make all the pieces I need. Don't have the tools for one thing, or time for another.

Rich

[Sportinlife]

My 64 is getting 2 chunks of 2x4 .120 wall in place of the present pieces, and the ends will be closed and the body mount holes sleeved. Hadn't thought about all the other places though.

Andy

[69supercj]

The previous owner had just cut my cab braces out where they attached to the end of the cab and just left them that way. And I'm not sure if I'm gonna replace them or not, the floors is extremely stout and it doesn't give at all even with the ends of the braces gone.

[BarnieTrk]

The previous owner had just cut my cab braces out where they attached to the end of the cab and just left them that way. And I'm not sure if I'm gonna replace them or not, the floors is extremely stout and it doesn't give at all even with the ends of the braces gone.

It may seem plenty stout without the support, but I'd recommend it be replaced.... it would have to be a good factor to have it in the event (heaven forbid) of a side impact..... just saying...... Stay safe out there!

BarnieTrk

[64 f100]

As to side to side impact, remember you have an in cab gas tank. Now how much this brace helps in that regard I don't have a clue.

Rich

[William-in-St George]

I have used the end piece repair sections from Carpenter. These parts fit good and are fairly easy to install. Always drill a drain hole in each repair section 1/2 inch minimum. I like to lay the cab on it's back so I am comfortable and simply weld in the various repair parts. I think it would be easier to get a complete floor pan from a 79 model with solid front cab supports and the open cross member. The install welds would be long but straight and easily ground down. A nice cleanup with a coat of epoxy primer and a little bed liner and the floor rust issue would be solved permanently. This floor replacement process would eliminate repair patches for cab supports, floor panels and the infamous and rust prone cross cab support. Front floor pans are basically the same to 1979 and would include the various cabs Ford used during that era. I have replaced cab supports, floor pans and the ends of the cross cab support and honestly unless the rust is really minor a complete floor pan swap is reasonable. IMHO!