Slick 60's

Alright so I'm almost done re wiring my truck. I have a 66 f100 with a sweep cluster in It. I have a replacement chrome sweep cluster and here's my delema. My fuel gauge and temp guage have never been accurate. I like the look of the factory cluster and in a perfect world I would have an oil pressure guage far left in the new bezel, factory fuel, factory temp, and then a volts guage. I'm mostly concerned with a good oil pressure guage and temp guage but since I have a new bezel I think it would be really half assed to put a oil pressure and water temp in the sides and have the factory guage just be there and not work.
I like the look of the basic vdo gages like this





Im really not sure what way to go about this. I've tried new water temp sensors, a new voltage regulator behind the dash. Clean the connectors up and the fuel guage works but is way off and the temp never worked. So what would you do in my shoes?

Try running a new ground directly from the battery to the metal on the back of the gauge panel.

ill try giving that a shot. I wish there was an easy way to just replace the gauges with vdos and keep the cluster stock looking with the exception of the fuel and temp gauge.

I don't know how much faith I have in the accuracy of the temp gauge since its a vital function too.

The stock TEMP, FUEL, and OIL pressure gauges use ~6V power from the IVR. Have you checked that it is working OK?
As for the questionable TEMP gauge you have, have you tested it by - momentarily - grounding out the wire to sending unit? It should peg to the hot pretty quickly.
Same for the fuel sending unit?

I am assuming you have stock sending units in your engine, by the way.

I'm in the middle of re wiring my truck right now. I have the cluster removed and the ivr is connected. How can I test each gauge, the fuel and temp that's in the cluster.

Use a test lamp probing the sender wire. Key on, it should progress to full position and max range on the temp. Test lamp will be flashing as IVR cycles. As previously mentioned, be certain IVR ( and instrument panel)!is well grounded.
Paul

So if the cluster is out and the wiring is all tore out how can I do some testing?

You could do this with a (charged) battery and some wiring:

Connect the input side of the IVR to a wire on the + positive side of the battery.
Run a wire from the output side of the IVR to the + positive side of the TEMP, OIL (pressure) or FUEL gauge. One gauge at a time, of course. (Note: The + positive connection on the gauge is the stud on the right, looking at the back of the gauge.)
Connect a wire to the other, the - negative side of the gauge. (The one on the left, looking at the backside.)
Now, momentarily touch the - negative wire on the gauge to the - negative battery post. The needle should begin to move up. You can let it move all the way up before disconnecting the current, but do not leave it connected after it reaches full up.

Of course, if the gauge will not return all the way to the bottom (Empty, 0 pressure, fully Cold), then the gauge needs to be repaired or replaced.
Also, this test will not apply to the ammeter.

If the gauges will start at or return to the bottom, and they move upwards all the way with IVR voltage, then assume the gauges are good.
If they have misbehaved in the past, then suspect the IVR, incorrect or bad sending units, bad grounds or wiring issues - which we hope are being corrected with new wiring, of course!

Hope this helps.

Thanks banjo. I'll get on it tomorrow night. I'll have my headlights and relays done tomorrow so I'll get right on that. Then it's on to heater controls, windshield wiper motor and then hook the battery up.

I hope at least you can figure out if your gauges work right or not.
Best of luck.