Slick 60's

Just finished the hei upgrade on my sons 1961 223.
1975 300 f100 distributor, Gm e-core v6 coil and 4 pin module.
Fired it all off through a Bosch relay with the original resistor wire.
Man this set up is sweet.
Only problem is the thing will not shut off after it has run for few minutes. I have to disconnect the power wire at the relay to kill it. It seems the power it is drawing, sticks the relay in the on position.
Any help would be appreciated.
We also have kept the same timing, should we alter it as well as increasing the plug gap?
Thanks for the help
John

Make sure that the power source controlling the relay is hooked to the ignition terminal on the key and not the acc. I had the same thing happen with my truck for just that reason.

Dan

Thanks I will check that out.
any advise on timing or spark plug gap?

the 300 usually timed with that distributor at 10 degrees btdc. I would open the gap up a bit, maybe around .05 to .055. Good luck.

Dan

Would the 223 be the same? Book calls out 4 degrees stock advance and .35 on the plugs, does the upgrade add that much?
Here is the thread I followed besides yours
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic73993-1.aspx
Thanks
John

John
Don't know about the timing but the Petronix electronic Distributor recommended to set the plug gap at 45. I assume all are similar.
Rich

I believe the DSII pointgap is recommended for .45 also. When I did the HEI conversion I regapped my plugs from .35 to .45

If it runs well as is I would leave it alone. I also wouldn't bother re gapping plugs until you change them. You need to get your relay problem under control. Mine did exactly what you are talking about because I had the control wire for the relay on the ignition prong of the keyswitch along with everything else that would normally be on the acc prong. The feedback from the alternator was enough to energize the acc circuits backwards and keep the relay closed. I replaced the ignition switch and wired it so that when the key turns on, everything except the actual ignition system is ran by the accessory circuit. Only the command wire for the relay is hooked to the ign terminal. If you have a delco alternator this will happen, especially if the charge light is hooked to ignition power.

Dan

I may be missing something, but "off" is "off" . It should die regardless as long as the trigger wire is interrupted at the switch. If you in fact have a feed-back condition, separating the ignition feed wire at the switch might solve the run-on problem; my bigger concern would be "keep-alive" power to any other accessories or instrumentation. This could result in damage to the accessories or simply a dead battery. My suspicious nature call me to question just what Daniel was stating, a feed-back from the alternator. That is the one (poor) advantage of a "one-wire", if wired correctly, it is incapable of feeding voltage back to switched circuits. That is one reason for it's use on farm and industrial equipment. This is not to say it can't damage the battery.
'Course, it could be a defective or mis-wired relay!
Some of you guys are evidently running one heck of a point gap, LOL!!
Paul

OK after banging my head against the wall for hours. I disconnected the feed wire to the relay,at the ignition switch. it will not turn on at the acc. position but will in the run position. It still runs on. engine will turn off if I break the connection at the quick plug inside the engine compartment.
A test light at the location shows no power coming from the ignition switch.
I have swapped out the relay same problem.
After reading Dan and Toys most recent posts I took the idiot light out of the socket and now it works as it should!!!!!
So suggestions? If I have this problem on the 223 I will have it on my Y-block since they are wired the same and i am going to do the same dsII on it
Thanks
John

Better let Dan answer this one; he is a little less "opinionated" than I am! Suffice to say that he was right on as to his feedback diagnosis.
Leeroy's post regarding alternator conversion will probably shed some light.
Paul

Thanks all for your help and advice. This is the reason I spend the majority of my time on this site
I posted my last, from my sons computer, since mine was packed for the long ride home from a short vacation
Paul and Dan,
I want to thank you for always heeding the call of those who muddle through, I am sure I am not alone in this thinking, you guys bail a lot of us out.
Paul,
being opinionated just gives you more character, you have other qualities that balance it out ,That is of course just my opinion (see, me too)
Dan,
could you possibly draw out how the Delco S1 three wire should correctly be installed, and how did you isolate just the ignition,given you cannot see where the wires go within the molded plug
Thanks
John

Somewhere in my research I remember there being an option of wiring a transistor into the charge light/exciter wire to prevent feed back. Can anyone direct me to a site or post that could help?

You can install a diode to prevent multi-direction flow.
EDIT: this got over my head fast! First problem which comes to mind is that a charge lamp in particular, operates with a specified resistance shunted across the lamp terminals in conjunction with the regulator resistors, in order to assure the system is actually charging, rather than a simple feedback of voltage. My limited knowledge of diodes is that even a Slotky diode is going to create a resistance in the selected direction of flow. I suspect that a defective alternator diode trio could cause your symptoms, but don't possess enough knowledge to explain exactly why. Thus, I suspect Dan or another of the electrical gurus would be your best source, I'm just a mechanic! Edit 2: check the mentioned shunted resistor at the gauge terminals. If it is damaged or missing, it could cause this, although the charge lamp would then be glowing whenever key is on.
Paul

Thanks, The diode does sound more like it than a transistor. I re read the entire post and next time I have a chance I will try and isolate the bulb wire to acc. hopefully that will do it. Unfortunately I may be mechanically inclined but I am not a mechanic. I am both in awe and jealous of those who are.
Thanks for the help.
John

John, the Tylenol 3 is wearing off and my thoughts are becoming a little more collected! Rerouting to ACC will stop the run-on, but you will need to be sure all other switched accessories are shut off to avoid battery drain or component damage. With the SI alternator, I would expect the diode trio to be the cause. If you want to run an external diode, plug the striped side in line somewhere between the idiot lamp and the alternator terminal.
Paul

My son clipped the wire that ran to the idiot light and ran it to the acc. post just to make sure he got it right, and that seems to have solved that problem. Thanks to all.

I was wondering however, does the module really put out this much heat? it gets as hot as the top of the radiator does after an hour run. I have read on here that it barely gets warm with a heat sinc