the seriousness of slickitis, uni conversion new pics 9-11
Posted: April 12, 2015, 6:16 pm
is it possible.
this started actually several years ago when i decided it would be easy to do a separate uni bed or uni conversion
some of you may remember these
plans that while might have worked, never fully materialised.
besides build threads need lots of pics.
f500 uni crew..
uni and 65 2wd cab on 68 4x4 frame, extended cab style.
then the separate uni bed like South America
slickitis getting to you yet
so now i got this uni bed trailer.
specifically to replace the rusty wrongbed on my 4x4
came on a 63 2wd frame just like the one i got the wrongbed from
so i get a new matching uni bed and get to bolt the wrongbed right back on the trailer frame
gives me a basically free slick trailer too.
started cleaning up the bed the other day, 40 years of dirt and grime.
no rust holes in the floor or torque box
some dents i will deal with once its off the frame
got down to some very serious measurements and found out a few things, some of which you may know.
long unis use a 122" wheelbase
long 4x4s are 120"
on a uni, the back of the cab is the front bed wall.
uni beds are 1" shorter in the rear than the front
i measured this 3x
wheres my tinfoil hat...
if the uni bed is pushed directly up against the rear of the cab, the bolt holes in the frame line up
so does the body line at the door with 1" lift on all the bed mounts.
you see where this is going
warm dry conditions melted Ices brain, hes cooked
theres a spot in the corner where the door line is that if you attached the bed the connecting area would be in the corner where the door rubber meets
and very minimal body work. gas tank hole in the right spot
hey
that sort of solves a rusty cab corner issue too
hmmm......
more measuring
sure the tape measure is not acting as an antenna for the tinfoil hat
if one very carefully cuts the curve along the painted line where the uni roof was attached that will match the body line on the back of the cab.
only real issues i could come up with was first i thought the ribs on the back of the bed and cab might not line up
turns out this is not going to be a problem
then i discovered i might need modification of the lower back of the cab corners.
basically some rust removal and maybe a flat square piece of steel
cant see strength being an issue, back of cab will be double thick.
rib on the top of the uni bed adds strength there
some welds in the door lip
along the back under the window.
tune in next time and see how slickitis progresses
can you convert a conventional cab to a uni
or will i be taken away in a straightjacket to the kookoos nest
this started actually several years ago when i decided it would be easy to do a separate uni bed or uni conversion
some of you may remember these
plans that while might have worked, never fully materialised.
besides build threads need lots of pics.
f500 uni crew..
uni and 65 2wd cab on 68 4x4 frame, extended cab style.
then the separate uni bed like South America
slickitis getting to you yet
so now i got this uni bed trailer.
specifically to replace the rusty wrongbed on my 4x4
came on a 63 2wd frame just like the one i got the wrongbed from
so i get a new matching uni bed and get to bolt the wrongbed right back on the trailer frame
gives me a basically free slick trailer too.
started cleaning up the bed the other day, 40 years of dirt and grime.
no rust holes in the floor or torque box
some dents i will deal with once its off the frame
got down to some very serious measurements and found out a few things, some of which you may know.
long unis use a 122" wheelbase
long 4x4s are 120"
on a uni, the back of the cab is the front bed wall.
uni beds are 1" shorter in the rear than the front
i measured this 3x
wheres my tinfoil hat...
if the uni bed is pushed directly up against the rear of the cab, the bolt holes in the frame line up
so does the body line at the door with 1" lift on all the bed mounts.
you see where this is going
warm dry conditions melted Ices brain, hes cooked
theres a spot in the corner where the door line is that if you attached the bed the connecting area would be in the corner where the door rubber meets
and very minimal body work. gas tank hole in the right spot
hey
that sort of solves a rusty cab corner issue too
hmmm......
more measuring
sure the tape measure is not acting as an antenna for the tinfoil hat
if one very carefully cuts the curve along the painted line where the uni roof was attached that will match the body line on the back of the cab.
only real issues i could come up with was first i thought the ribs on the back of the bed and cab might not line up
turns out this is not going to be a problem
then i discovered i might need modification of the lower back of the cab corners.
basically some rust removal and maybe a flat square piece of steel
cant see strength being an issue, back of cab will be double thick.
rib on the top of the uni bed adds strength there
some welds in the door lip
along the back under the window.
tune in next time and see how slickitis progresses
can you convert a conventional cab to a uni
or will i be taken away in a straightjacket to the kookoos nest