Sheriff Truck--61 Uni on 08 CVPI

[viper driver]

the body mounts took quite a bit of time to figure out. in the end, we used the CV mounts. there are 10 total, which is probably twice as many as we need. but it'll keep things from moving around. since we used the CV parts, there are good rubber bushings at all of them. i've made every effort now that they're done to try and make the cab rattle or squeak on the frame. it just won't. they're great.

we set the mounts to give just a bit of rake to the body. using a level on the bed, we tried to make the front about 2" lower than the back. I think rake always looks good, and none or opposite looks horrid.

if somehow the weight changes and it turns out wrong in the end, I plan to cut the front springs a bit in the end to get it just right. If is the rear that needs to be lower, I'll buy lowering springs for the back. I don't think it'll be needed though.

[viper driver]

there's a reason nearly all of the slicks on CV frames have OEM ford bullitt mustang wheels. They fit, and they're super cheap. In the end, I got mine for $250 for all 4 including shipping. My CVPI wheels are worth nearly $100 each on CL, craziness. I got them from newtakeoff. I'd recommend them, perfect condition.

There are really only a couple wheels that will fit, that you'd even consider using. The American Racing VN327 wheels can be custom made to actually have the same or more pos offset than the CV wheels. While they're Cheby replicas, you can google the Gas Monkey 69 ford that had them. I saw it in person at BJ in Phx last year. They looked great with no center caps. I think they're about $4k or so for the set, maybe someday.

The stock CVPI wheels are ok, not for me. I considered trying to weld up all the holes to make them look like smoothies, but went for the bullits instead. I actually like them in person. I think they'll be just fine. Can't go wrong for the price, and they fit the stock tires so I can reuse the tires I already had. score.

These wheels stick out 1/4" more than the stock CVPI wheels. I had to roll the rear fender lips to make them work. you can even remove the rear wheels without some terrible process, nice. they fit.

[viper driver]

here's a photo of the fuel tank area, and how we made a bracket for the hump to set on. there's just a bit of clearance between it and the parts back here. it's removable, since you'd have to take it off to service the fuel pump.

[viper driver]

while the body was off at media blast, i finished up work on the frame.

for replacement parts, I replaced the rear shocks and spark plugs. seemed like an easy time to do both. I also rewrapped most of the wire loom around the engine. the old stuff looked pretty bad.

[viper driver]

we were able to order a wiring book from eBay for the 2008 crown vic. this was a lifesaver. I'm not sure you could do this project without it.

this is a photo of the wiring nightmare, and all the wiring that was removed. the photo on the floor is all the wiring we cut out that isn't needed. when it was all done, there was hardly any of it left.

if your wife wants to prevent you from taking on this project, have her print out this photo of the wiring mess all over the motor. that is depressing for sure. in the end though, we won!

[viper driver]

here's the column mounted in the truck. a couple from speedway for ididit columns was welded to the CV steering. we custom made an arm for the shifter and it works great with the stock trans.

you can also see the awesome seat cover for now. and a photo of the seat frame post media blast.

in the pre photo, you can see the brake pedal and 'gas pedal'. the CANbus cars have throttle by wire. I bet this is the only 61 F-100 with throttle by wire. not sure it adds anything productive, but sure easy to connect.

for the brakes, we didn't even have to break the lines. the system was connected the entire time and never had to be bled. finally, something easy on the project.

i spent lots of time in rental cars on business trips trying to figure out the exact placement of the pedals. I wanted the brake right in the center, so we had to put a C shape in it around the steering column. it's great now.

[viper driver]

firewall welded.jpg (195.36 KiB) Viewed 5869 times

once back from media blast, seemed like fixing the firewall should be done before we lowered it on for the last time. photos tell the story. weld, prime, sand, paint.

[viper driver]

with the body back on, it runs!

amazing how nicely it drives. I guess it makes sense, since it's all 2008 family sedan parts. really works great.

[Mr. Jones]

"Gee Wizz!! Mr.Viper,you sure make it look easy!!"


Great post,THANKS for sharing..looking forward for Part ll.....
Dan

[ThinLizzy13]

You got all that done from 430-630 today?!

Dang that's looking good!

[viper driver]

You got all that done from 430-630 today?!

Dang that's looking good!

uhh, not exactly! Bill W has been asking me to join the forum, but I've been working on the truck since last Nov. Probably another 6-9 months to go.

[viper driver]

better photos of the steering inside the cab and to the CV steering. you can see the brake arm and how it had to be moved so as not to interfere with the steering column. all OEM CV stuff on the brakes.

also a better shot of the body mount system.

[viper driver]

ok, i found my notes from when I first measured to see if this could actually work. These are 100% NOT guaranteed, don't count on these at all, but worked for me. The unibody measurements are stock, assuming you don't roll the fender lips. I estimated you could get an extra 1" or so if you did.

front:
CV, outer edge of sidewall to sidewall, widest point at the tires front: 74"
CV, stock backspacing: 6 3/8", or +54 offset
unibody front end inside of stock fender lips: 77.75"

my best guess at how much the tire moves outward to the fender edge at full lock: an additional 2"

rear:
CV, widest point on tire, outer edge to outer edge: 75 3/8"
F100 rear fender lip: 77.5"
CV rear tire width: 9.5"
unibody rear fender depth: 14"
unibody inner fender to inner fender, inside edge of tires: 49.5"
CV inner edge of tire to inner edge of tire: 56 3/8"

what did all this mean to me? it will fit. you need high pos offset wheels. backspacing and offset aren't so important as frontspacing. front of wheel to fender is where the problem lies. I decided it would work for me since I didn't mind using modern type wheels.

if you want old style wheels, or 15" wheels, or want to lay the frame on the ground, this will not work very well. My bullit wheels have about .5" more front spacing than the OEM CV wheels, or .5" less clearance to the body.

[SteveCanup]

Watching...great build, I like your approach to this.

[viper driver]

ok, caught up to present day....

today the task was shooting filler primer. went well. Also a photo of the new gauge I made from the parts of three others, plus a couple new pieces from the bronco shop, plus some hobby paint for the fluorescent orange needles. I had a really old version gauge in my '61 with a GEN light instead of ALT, which I hoped to use, but I accidentally messed up the letters. Oops, ALT will have to do.

[2dr_sedan]

I really like this build so far.

[orangeRcode]

Very nice. Looking forward to updates.

[viper driver]

I think the bed is done. Primed and ready for bed liner after the test is painted. I know bed liner is cheating, but I want to use it. I've got another truck with bedliner and really like it. I've had a truck before with a painted bed, too much hassle and worry to keep it nice.

[390fastback]

Sweet build so far, I'm liking your approach. And I love that steering wheel!

You said yours might be the only drive by wire 61 Unibody, well if it is, then I've got the only 62!! LOL

[viper driver]

Lots of block sanding. Bed sides about done. Roof needs some work.