Slick 60's

I have a '65 swb slick with 3 on the tree. I plan to retrofit a healthy 351W in the truck and would like to have a 5 speed manual for the overdrive.

What 5 speeds are you guys running out there? I'd like something that shifts well, with a performance bent. More like a passenger car and less like a truck -- not needing a granny gear.

This truck won't be used for towing, just cruising.

Thanks in advance for any input.

A T5 would be your best bet. They are plentiful and not a lot of money to buy one. Try to find a 5.0 Mustang version around the early 90's. I think they were designated as WC or "World Class". Not sure on the years but a quick Internet search should yield several results.

If you want to save some money the 4 spd OD trannys used in the 70s and 80s are an nice fit, retain the truck shifter, have a std first gear and have and OD fourth. I've bought and used a number of these for under $200. If you were just replacing the 3spd, it is a direct bolt in after adding the access panel, you might have to adjust drive shaft length.

62bigwindow wrote:A T5 would be your best bet. They are plentiful and not a lot of money to buy one. Try to find a 5.0 Mustang version around the early 90's. I think they were designated as WC or "World Class". Not sure on the years but a quick Internet search should yield several results.

A T5 won't live behind a "healthy 351W" for very long. Not unless you are prepared to spend some money addressing it's weaknesses. If staying away from truck transmissions, then look at the TKO 5 speeds. Or if feeling like you want a challenge find a T56 6 speed from a Camaro/Firebird. They can be made to bolt up the the SBF. They are bigger than the T5 but a truck has the space to swallow one. Sixth gear will halve your axle ratio. 4.10's will become 2.05's. The common ratios are 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00/0.74/0.50

Most car transmissions will cause the shifter to come up through the floor near or maybe even under the bench on a pickup.

I have been looking into a 4 speed with overdrive to replace my original 3.03 3 speed. Like a T170FS SROD. Like Bruce said, they are a direct replacement with very little modification. Does anyone else have experience and or pictures of this upgrade behind an FE?

Mine was put in behind a 300 six in a short bed. Make sure you cut out the whole area for the cover on the tunnel before you start. You need the room for maneuvering the transmission into place. I think I used on from a '77 truck and had to adjust where the cutout was for the shift tower. Check the input shafts to make sure they are the same.

It will depend just how "healthy" it is.
For street use, a T5 will work perfectly in most instances. These trucks don't have enough traction to be a serious threat.
If you will drag race regularly, particularly with traction enhancers, or drive it hard often, then you might consider something beefier.

If you decide on a T5, don't waste time with a used one. Get a brand new Ford Motorsport T5. By the time you have a worn out old one repaired, you will have as much money in it as buying new.
The Motorsport version also has a really tall OD, .63 which works better with the shorter rear gears which are usually required for "healthy" motors. So you can have the short gear required for the reduced low end torque output and still cruise the highway at a reasonable rpm.
I have that very transmission and 70mph is about 1800rpm with 3.70:1 and 28" tires. It is actually too low an RPM for my "healthy" Y-Block. It seems much happier at about 2000rpm so I will try 4.11 next which should shift the rpm up about 200rpm.

Charlie: I just did some math, and methinks your speedo is out?

First row below line is the combo you're running, the other two are what it would be @ 2K RPM, and what RPM it should be @ 70 MPH.

* Remember, it all changes if your tire diameter is something other than 28" tall

Tire Dia/ RPM/ Axle Ratio/ Trans Ratio/ MPH
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28/ 1800/ 3.70/ 0.63/ 64.350
28/ 2000/ 3.70/ 0.63/ 71.500
28/ 1958/ 3.70/ 0.63/ 69.999


Frickin forum software!! When you draft the post, everything lines up, then when you submit, it gets all F'd up:(:(

Charlie: Send me a PM with your email, and I'll email you my crude spreadsheet....

charliemccraney wrote:It will depend just how "healthy" it is.
For street use, a T5 will work perfectly in most instances. These trucks don't have enough traction to be a serious threat.
If you will drag race regularly, particularly with traction enhancers, or drive it hard often, then you might consider something beefier.

If you decide on a T5, don't waste time with a used one. Get a brand new Ford Motorsport T5. By the time you have a worn out old one repaired, you will have as much money in it as buying new.
The Motorsport version also has a really tall OD, .63 which works better with the shorter rear gears which are usually required for "healthy" motors. So you can have the short gear required for the reduced low end torque output and still cruise the highway at a reasonable rpm.
I have that very transmission and 70mph is about 1800rpm with 3.70:1 and 28" tires. It is actually too low an RPM for my "healthy" Y-Block. It seems much happier at about 2000rpm so I will try 4.11 next which should shift the rpm up about 200rpm.

The speedo is accurate. If anything I might be remembering the rpm incorrectly. It is below 2000rpm @70mph.

I have a spread sheet with one of those calculators.

We put an 5 speed, MR52, in a few years back behind a healthy 5.0. Still going strong with no issues in my sons 64. Was originally 3 on tree but easy swap with hydraulic clutch. Did have drive shafts custom cut but was only about $140

http://chevyc60.com/the_transmission_page.htm

Not the passenger car you mentioned. A few Chevrolet transmissions shows you a few options. A lot of the medium duty transmissions are 250 lbs and less. I have not done it myself but I have thought about one of the small Clark 5 non overdrive transmissions with 2.50:1 9" rear would have the same in town driveability as my NP435 4:10 Dana has. Unless I come to a stop I can stay in 3rd and 4th. 3rd gear is perfect for slowing down for a turn. The advantage is 5 th would be 2.50:1 highway gear. A ditect in/out shaft vs an extra set of overdrive shaft and gears to run through.

I had a T-5 behind a 352 with 3.25 gears that turned 2000RPM at 70MPH. Loved the way it drove.

55mph in 4th gear



55mph in 5th gear



70mph in 5th gear




The tach is right and according to the Iowa Highway Patrol the speedometer is right at 70MPH.
SPark

lineman1984 wrote:I have been looking into a 4 speed with overdrive to replace my original 3.03 3 speed. Like a T170FS SROD. Like Bruce said, they are a direct replacement with very little modification. Does anyone else have experience and or pictures of this upgrade behind an FE?

Have one in the '66 that is my avatar. The truck has a mild 390 in it. Been there for close to 20 years. Sorry, no ready available pictures, but as has been said earlier, it is a bolt in swap for a 3.03. As I remember I had to have the driveshaft shortened about 8" and get longer speedometer cable. Mine came from a Granada / Monarch, '77-'78. I used the factory shifter, though I did have to put a slight bend at the base of the shifter handle to allow for seat clearance.

A word of caution. Ford offered this 4 speed overdrive in many different rigs and in many different configurations. Be sure to use one with a cast iron case and cast iron tail housing that has a bolt on shifter. Stay away from ones that are aluminum or have integral shifters.

So I now have my motor in place, went with a 4v 390 t-bird motor I got off of CL. I'd still like to get a smooth-shifting OD manual trans to replace the 3 spd. For a T5, is it just a matter of buying an adapter for between bellhousing and trans, and shortening the driveshaft? Will the trans hump need to be modified for the T5? Will the trans come with the correct output yoke? I see some high horsepower options out there like a T56 but I don't think I'll need anything close to its torque capacity. Thanks for any input! BTW, this truck will be used just for cruising, no towing or work any more.

World class is better and started about 85, but torque and horsepower ratings for the early models are low. Highest rating is in 94/5 I believe , something like 305 hp. rated, if I remember right. Buying a used T5 can be tricky and count on it needing work. If, you do your own work and make a couple of upgrades you can easily have close to the price of a new one, plus it is a learning experience. I buy my rebuild parts from out of Florida from a guy that does a lot of these transmissions, and has you tube videos showing how it's done. Also, get the special oil you need for the transmission with special additives for better shifting and overall performance. Pep Boys has one brand of it and is the cheapest at about 12$ a quart, if I remember right. I also recommend buying the upgrade rear countershaft support for less flex in the countershaft. As to installing one in a pickup with three speed hump. The transmission will be nearly at the floor, at least the one I installed is. I took and cut out the center of the hump and then cut out the floor of another truck to make a cover that would overlap, and installed with sealant once I had the transmission installed. This is in my grandsons truck and I have not started it yet. Still working on the truck getting close to being able to start it. Hope to in the coming week. I would recommend watching several different videos, before starting on an overhaul of one of these transmission. I did and found these to be very helpful. This 351w is pushing 400 plus HP and most likely as much torque maybe more. Since I have 1200$ in this transmission, I hope he will treat it with at least a little respect, but truly will be surprised if it lasts a year. This particular one is an early model and was rated at something like 250hp. I did not install the upgrade for the countershaft in this one. Most likely I should have.
Other advice on these transmissions when buying one, don't believe anyone on condition unless you know them personally. Also, the rear tailshaft bushing is cast in at the factory, and is not really made to be replaced, although you will find some bushings advertised for sale. Just something to remember when buying one.

Rich

What is the special oil? World class units use ATF. The others use gear oil. Most gear oils now have limited slip additive. Is it just an oil without that?