65 4x4 Daily Driver Upgrade

[04sd]

Hopefully that fixes the brakes. The gauge cluster looks great.

[9Fingers]

Hey Bill.

I tested the check valve today. Air moves one way, not toward the booster. I was hopeful that it would be something quick to fix, like swapping a bad check valve. Now we know its not the valve. I appreciate your idea to test it.

My helper was busy today with other stuff so no brake bleed. Tomorrow will be spent helping family get a room cleaned out and furniture rearranged, probably no truck time. Plan is for Friday afternoon to bleed the brakes.

The only other change to the gauge cluster I had thought about was using the earlier custom cab dash where the metal was silver or chrome. Then I thought about the sun glaring off the chrome and decided to stay with the white paint.

[Mr. Jones]

Here’s something else you might check

[9Fingers]

Late this afternoon, my helper and I bled the brakes again, a few bubbles at the driver front wheel, all others were fluid only. Still had soft pedal. Unbolted the booster rod from the brake pedal. No noticeable slop. Re-aligned the eccentric bolt and tried again, still soft. Unbolted the master cylinder from the booster and adjusted the rod length until there was just a little pressure getting the master cylinder bolted back on, then backed off just a touch. This time the pedal was noticeably more firm. Test drove it and NOW WE HAVE BRAKES!!!!

I will need to drive some more and then dial in the rear wheel adjusters.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions from you folks here. Each suggestion has led me to find something that needed attention.

Next I need to diagnose the small water leak under the dash, then on to firewall insulation and getting the remainder of the interior finished.

[04sd]

Getting close!

[9Fingers]

The Coronavirus, work, and a move have been at the forefront of our life since my last post here. I've got about 250-260 miles on the truck now, mostly weekend runs to the trash dump. It seems to be settling in. A little spark knock under hard acceleration, probably need to back off on the timing a little. Still have not addressed the small leak under the dash, but I've got the wiper arm gaskets to install. Trying to finish up the move over the next week or so, truck will be the last thing to move(drive). It's about an hour and 15 minutes of interstate travel in a modern car. I'll probably keep it somewhere between 60-65 mph. Looking forward to getting it moved to the new place and back to work on it. The new place is way closer to work, so less time spent travelling daily, more time for family and friends, and to get the F100 finished up. I've been on here just about every day keeping up with the updates. What a great resource and group of folks here on this forum!

[04sd]

Great to hear it's on the road, wish I could say that about mine but still making slow steady progress.

[oldsmiley]

Bill
Even slow/steady progress is welcomed progress. You are closer than you were.

Mine broke about 10 days ago and it'll be at least 3 weeks before I can even begin to fix it. Right now...."it's a SAD world that I live in".

I can't wait. Every day that goes by, is another day that I can't get back

[9Fingers]

Bill, I've been watching your build. Wish I had the patience and skills to do the work you do.

Old Smiley, I've been checking back to see if you've done more with your truck too.

Today, I drove the 65 about 90 miles or so, the majority on the interstate. It pulled good, oil pressure great, temp gauge fluctuating as the thermostat opened and closed, tracked good, brakes good. I do have an issue with the rear brake lights, had none. Replaced fuse, still none, then intermittently for part of the drive, my wife was following in the car. All new wires to the rear ,but I reused the rear harness. I'm thinking cracked insulation with a short to blow the fuse, and maybe a bad ground. Will rework all of it at some point soon. Need to put wiper post gaskets on too and hopefully stop the small leak under the dash.
Looking forward to having it here and getting back to work on it. Even if just small projects, a day at the time, it will all come together.

[9Fingers]

Happy new year to everyone. The Grinch came a couple weeks before Christmas. He brought down two red oak trees right through the apex of the garage roof. Garage a total loss, as well as some items inide. On the bright side, the Slick was not in one of the garage bays, nor parked in front, so it survived un touched. Today, I had a fellow at the local garage help me pull the wiper arms off the truck, I couldn't get them off with previous attempts. There were no gaskets around the wiper shafts, so I'm pretty sure this is the source of my under cowl leak. I have gaskets and will get them on. I have a couple of questions.

Is there a good source for replacement wiper arms, or at least the portion that holds the rubber? These have some rust, I figured while I'm here, if there's a good quality replacement, I'd put them on.

Does anyone have a shop manual with photos that show wiper motors with the park switch, cam, etc.. and instructions on how to adjust that they can scan and either email or post to the site? When installing I moved the motor shaft and apparently got the park function out of adjustment. I searched here and found a link to a mustang site that had pics, but it's hard to tell about the adjustment and if I have to disassemble the motor.

I'll post pictures soon.

Thank you,. Bradshaw

[9Fingers]

Here's a picture of the garage with the trees the Grinch brought.



In between some other chores today I pulled the wiper motor from the truck.



It was pulled from a donor truck that had a 65 griile, maybe it was swapped into that truck, or maybe the grille was not original to the donor.



Cleaned it up some.



Then pulled the cover.





One of those two contacts seemed fixed and the other spring loaded.

Removed keeper ring from plastic gear, then cleaned copper circuit on the opposite side.



Eyeballed it when replacing plastic gear to mesh with the worm gear so that contacts were not touching the copper ring.

If it's not spot on, the adjustment appears to be with the lock nut and adjustment screw. Looks as though this will shift the worm gear, which will move the plastic gear and finally the opposite gear with copper circuit.



Hope to get the motor installed and adjusted tomorrow. Waiting on replacement wiper blades, but will use the ones I have for park function adjustment.

[9Fingers]

Reinstalled the wiper motor, put arms and blades back on. Connected wiring. If you turn the switch off while the wipers are going up, they cycle to full up and stop. If you turn the switch off while they are headed down, they stop immediately.

Can the wiper arm be 180° out of phase of does it have something to do with that contact that was not spring loaded? Or combination of both?

[My wife's nightmare]

I know I'm behind on this but thanks for the repair instructions. I bought an NOS wiper motor still in the box several years ago. The box was stamped C5TZ-something but the number stamped on the motor itself is C3TZ-something. Its amazing what you run into and what Ford actually did on the assembly lines and what got used in dealership repair shops. I may have posted this already but when I was working at the dealership, a new Bronco II came in for pre-delivery inspection and the emblems on the passenger side were Ranger emblems, driver side was Bronco II! And I watched them unload it from the transporter. Glad your truck made it through the tree ordeal, sorry your shop didn't!!

[9Fingers]

I like that Bronco II/Ranger story! I drove a gov owned Kcar about 20 years ago. Strangest thing I've ever seen. Driver's seat had a regular, manual shoulder seat belt. Passenger side front seat had one of those automatic belts that retracted when the door opened along a track up and over the door opening. I used to tell my co workers the gov always got the reject vehicles. You'd think if just one side was to get the automatic belt, it would be the driver's side.... I did find a slick casualty in the garage, my steel 65 grill was mashed pretty good on one side. On the bright side the ins folks have done their part. Will get it fixed, we might do the demo and save some $ to put toward the building. Have not done anymore on wipers yet. May swap the crank arm 180 degrees and see how it does, if it will park on the down stroke, I just may run it like that a while. Got an original style firewall pad/insulation ordered and on the way.