Slick 60's

I have a 63 f100 4x4 which came from Minnesota and it sure shows it. The floor boards need to be replaced and the drivers side front floor is the worst. You can see the left front tire from inside the cab, were there is a big rust hole were the hole is between the kick plate and the clutch pedal. And in order to pull the cab off the frame i need to support it and was wondering if anyone can give any kind of advice for the best way to support the cab so i can replace the floor pan. Thank you in advance.

Welcome !

I haven't did it... but I have seen that some have the bed removed & just
Lay the cab on its back , on the frame itself
That's about the simplest way with no tools or blocking
Just a few extra hands to help lay it back

fixed it for ya!

slick4x4 wrote:Welcome !

I haven't did it... but I have seen that some have the bed removed & just
Lay the cab on its back , on the frame itself, with a sheet of plywood, or OSB on top of the rails
That's about the simplest way with no tools or blocking
Just a few extra hands to help lay it back

I used a engine hoist and a big tow strap wrapped around the rood to pick it up and then layed it on its back on a trailer so I could move it around because I have no space to keep anything.

brandonperkins777 wrote:I have a 63 f100 4x4 which came from Minnesota and it sure shows it. The floor boards need to be replaced and the drivers side front floor is the worst. You can see the left front tire from inside the cab, were there is a big rust hole were the hole is between the kick plate and the clutch pedal. And in order to pull the cab off the frame i need to support it and was wondering if anyone can give any kind of advice for the best way to support the cab so i can replace the floor pan. Thank you in advance.

If you go to my project page: "MY OL 66 - Custom Cab Ranger - Project Pictures", on the last page I have some recent photos of when I laid the cab back onto the frame to work on the bottom of the cab.

I used my engine hoist to pick the cab up and put a thick piece of foam padding on the frame for the cab to rest on.

Once I found the right holes in the cab to lift from, it took all of 5 minutes to roll it into position.

Here's my get your door gap set on both doors,may need to ratchet strap the cab depending on how rotted the floors and mounts,once you're satisfied with the alignment X brace the interior the more the better then roll the cab and start cutting......

Be careful using straps across the top of the cab. I bent my drip rails doing this. Use something to keep the straps spread and pressure off the cab. X2 on the door alignment first. I was able to replace the floor on a '64 without removing the cab. You may want to get your patches in place first and then remove for cleanup and rust prevention.

The guy who did all the work on my uni's floor was able to do so with the body on frame and without removing the fenders. The repair included floor pans, cab mounts, steps, risers, lower door pillars, and kick panel patches, among other things. Maybe not the easiest method but it is possible. Check out my build thread for photos.