Slick 60's

I've got a few rust holes in my hood right above the drip rail. I am in the process of scraping out the old sealant and brushing a nice clean drip rail.

What do y'all recommend to put down for rust prevention and some kind of Bondo primer stuff.
Also what do I use for sealant going back?

Any tips on doing this let me know please.

I also have some rust below the drip rail above the windshield I would like to address but not to sure how to tackle that.

The only way to eliminate rust-through in sheet metal is to cut it out and replace it with welded in metal. There has been talk about rust paints, seemed to me the rustoleum products were favored due to their value. Make sure whatever you use is completely cured before placing anything over it as it will cause your plastic/paint to fail otherwise.

Man no feed back or experience at all?

Andy: You will either need to find donor sheetmetal to weld in, or fabricate the pieces.
AND, while you have sections of the roof along the driprail trimmed back for patching, I expect you will find that the inner structure above the door will at the least, be rusty, at the worst lacey.
Best to sandblast this while you have access (all you need for this is an inexpensive little siphon feed blaster) Once you have the inner structure cleaned up, you can evaluate weather it's still sound enough to just epoxy prime & carry on, or if it's bad enough you need to repair it before patching the roof.
Once you have your patches made up, I would treat the area where the patches will get plug welded to the top of the driprail with a weld-thru primer. And after you have completed all your roof repairs, I would clean out all of the seams, and after you have all the repair areas coated in epoxy primer, re-seal all the seams with a 2K Seam sealer (2K = catylized, much more durable product than the old 3M heavy duty drip check sealer, and WAY less shrinkage!)
I'm assuming you have a mig, with hard wire & gas? Flux core IS NOT THE ANSWER FOR BODY REPAIRS. A tig works good, just a bit slower going, but less time in the cleanup/grinding with tig.

**Avoid any air dry primers/paints, as application of many of the solvents in bodyshop primers/paints can potentially cause lifting of the air dry products, which take FOREVER to fully cure.
When it comes to automotive primers & paints, I quit using anything that was not catylized years ago......

James

Great thanks

I have a 64 F100 with thin spots above the rain gutter edge. I made a post and crickets chirped . Not much on Youtube I found.
I did some mig work on a Scout II and they are thin metal for sure. I used the mig and learned with an automatic hood the mig wire glows long enough between spot welds that you can see the wire end and your next weld spot. I cleaned up thin places and went back to good metal, spot filling pinholes and welding in small pieces as needed. I had to rebuild the bottom windshield rounded corners so that was fun.
I used some weld thru primer and after a repair was made I tried to treat with the back side with paint or WD 40.
I treat my vehicles door edges and hidden places like hood edged with WD 40 to protect from moisture.
I have found that Rustoleum paint stays better on frames over time.
Good luck with your repair. I have some posts on Sleeping Beauty, my project truck.

Cool thanks

Hi, this is what I did on my cab.
A lot of work but worth the effort.
Darren.

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