'62 F100 SWB Step Side - yes another Crown Vic swap

[SteveCanup]

Jon...you're moving that project right along! I love the green on the back of the cab. Is that a 'custom' mix of rustoleum or actual auto paint? At any rate, it looks great.

Steve-

[Blanger]

Jon...you're moving that project right along! I love the green on the back of the cab. Is that a 'custom' mix of rustoleum or actual auto paint? At any rate, it looks great.

Steve-

Steve,

It's a new color from Rustoleum in a spray can, we have about 8-10 cans at the moment, since it's new not every retailer is stocking it so we are checking everywhere we go for extra cans, I think it's called green mint? not 100% sure about the name, but the wife emailed Rustoleum and they said it was a new color and to contact them if we couldn't find enough for the project.

We took a 3M scuff pad to the cured paint and it got rid of most of the shine, and experimenting with it and sand paper to revile the black primer underneath in select areas.

Jon

[04sd]

Jon...you're moving that project right along! I love the green on the back of the cab. Is that a 'custom' mix of rustoleum or actual auto paint? At any rate, it looks great.

Steve-

Steve,

It's a new color from Rustoleum in a spray can, we have about 8-10 cans at the moment, since it's new not every retailer is stocking it so we are checking everywhere we go for extra cans, I think it's called green mint? not 100% sure about the name, but the wife emailed Rustoleum and they said it was a new color and to contact them if we couldn't find enough for the project.

We took a 3M scuff pad to the cured paint and it got rid of most of the shine, and experimenting with it and sand paper to revile the black primer underneath in select areas.

Jon

Several years ago I needed a color I couldn't find in the stores. I ended up ordering it online from Lowes and if you pick it up in the store there is no shipping charge.

[Blanger]

Several years ago I needed a color I couldn't find in the stores. I ended up ordering it online from Lowes and if you pick it up in the store there is no shipping charge.

Thanks Bill,

That was pretty well what Rustolem told my wife, at least that they would help us locate however much we needed, I was surprised they even responded to a email from a consumer as quickly as they did, says a lot about their customer service department.

Jon

[Blanger]

On a unrelated Slick topic ...... lol

My brother got his front end sheet metal donor yesterday, '65 1 ton, it's pretty rough and been sitting for a lot of years, but the front end - cab should give him something to work with along with the green '65 long bed truck we sold him after stripping the parts we needed to build the '62.





The 2010 CV P71 he bought has had the transmission swapped out, and plugs - coil packs replaced, it runs and drives great.



Hope everyone has a great weekend!

Jon

[04sd]

Not sure if he is planning on using those large radius front fenders but I'm sure there would be someone with a 4x4 that could use them.

[Blanger]

Not sure if he is planning on using those large radius front fenders but I'm sure there would be someone with a 4x4 that could use them.

Bill,

Yeah he is planning on using them, his theory is that they may help with tire rub on the '10 CV chassis, he may be right but we'll see, I know the newer CV chassis has a little wider stance but once you lower the slick on to the chassis you're going to have tire rub pretty well regardless of what you do, the large radius fenders might be the answer to solving some of that.

We'll see

Jon

[Blanger]

It's the little things......

It takes a lot of little things to move forward on a build, this weekend was one of those where we knocked out a few little things that will let us move on towards final assembly.

First was to prep and paint the dash which took most of the weekend to prime and paint both colors.




Pulled the front end apart for hopefully the last time, prepped and painted the inside of the fenders after fixing some of the mounting issues they both had, also welded up the hole in the passenger fender where it had been mounted to the cab with a carriage bolt because the caged nut had failed....lol



Made patches and welded them in the rotten spots on the radiator support, then painted it.



Some of you may remember that the interior B pillars had holes cut in them that are several inches in diameter, the easiest way to solve that was to fill the hole with a 3" speaker....lol





Also replaced the front brake pads and rotors....



I got most of the under-hood grounds made for the engine wiring harness, still have one or two more to tie in but the wiring is about ready to try to start the CV back up. We had to add a piece of metal to the radiator support that comes off of it and goes under the passenger inner fender where the battery sits, the plastic battery mount/holder wasn't going to support the battery on its own and this metal plate will support the fender and battery keeping everything safe and secure.

At least now we are at the point where everything can start being assembled for hopefully the last time, of course we still have the doors and hood to deal with but we'll worry about those after it is running again...lol

More later...

Jon

[Blanger]

1 Step forward....and no looking back!



So the weekend mostly was spent putting the front-end sheet metal back together after it had been painted and cured, leveling and squaring everything up, running some under-hood wiring (finishing grounds).

We spent most of Saturday painting the front fenders, mounting the radiator support, and finishing most of the under-hood wiring except the lights which I'll do after it runs again.
Sunday was mostly hanging the front fenders, and making a couple braces for the front of the wheel arch that tie to the bottom of the radiator support, both had rotted off at some time in the past...lol




So the front end is mostly together, as I said before my wife is scheduling work so I spent Monday cleaning the shop, packing up and condensing the mess from the last few weeks, and putting the truck back on dollys so it can be moved out of the way. I'll still be able to get things done but the wife has work scheduled for the next month so.....I need to keep dirt to a minimum.

Here's a few random pictures...

The lighting module final placement ( you can see the wiper motor above it)



The interior fuse panel.



Dash parts.



The CV had tamper-proof rear door panels (no switches or interior door handle) made from some nice textured plastic, we kept this material and now I think it'll make good inner door access panels since the metal ones have speaker holes cut in them.



Battery placement.



Note the impact sensor for the air bags mounted on the radiator support....lol



I spent a little time Monday hanging the steering column back under the dash and connecting some wiring (more grounds), I think I finally have the wiring where I can connect the battery, add some fuel and see if it will run again which is my plan for next weekend.

Jon

[SteveCanup]

That "mint green" paint! I love it! Makes me want to go source some and repaint my truck. You're making good progress...

[Blanger]

That "mint green" paint! I love it! Makes me want to go source some and repaint my truck. You're making good progress...

I agree Steve, we like it a lot, it will be interesting to see what the final result will be. We purposely used black primer under the green so we can remove some of the green to let the black show through, the wife used a 3M scuff pad on the back of the can before we put the bed on and it removed most of the shine (makes it look aged) and a light sanding reviled some of the black, the orange that we put in some areas is still there so it makes a nice contrast of orange (rust), black and the mint green top coat..lol

BTW... your doing great on your garage, I know your going to be very happy with the end results.

Jon

[Blanger]

Holding pattern.....

Once again we are in a holding pattern (mostly) on the flare side build while my wife makes a living...lol

I did get a few things done over the weekend like fishing wires through the drivers A pillar to wire a dome light, and ran the speaker wires along the transmission tunnel to the back of the cab, I did test the electrical system also and everything works as expected. I did try to start the truck and while it will fire up on starting fluid it won't start or run the fuel pump on its own. I checked all the usual suspects like the inertia switch and related fuses, relay, and grounds and all seem to be correct although I don't have a wiring diagram for the '09 CV P71 like I had for the '98..... so, I'm thinking that the new fuel pump I installed may be defective, I'm going to order a new pump to test or replace this one, and of course that means the bed has to come back off if it is bad which isn't a big deal.

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So while the wife works through her jobs I'll post a little about my brothers build which is moving along.

The green '65 we had bought for parts and sold to him was totally stripped of its cab and bed then moved out to his house until needed, the red '65 1 ton he bought has been stripped out with the cab and dog house being cleaned up for evaluation.

The 1 ton truck has been sitting for a lot of years, so many that the doors wouldn't open very easily but remarkable the cab floor is in good shape as are the lower portion of the A pillars, of course the cab floor will be cut out along with the firewall....even the cab corners have a minimal amount of rot.

I find it odd that when I ran the VIN it does come back as a '65 built in June of 1965 at Kansas City, but the floor isn't like the '65 of my wife's which has no interior step (like the '61-63 trucks) this cab does have interior steps and the battery had access in the passenger floor, it was a custom cab I believe, it has the large radius front fenders which are also in very good shape.

Here's a few pics.











More to come!

Jon

[04sd]

Only the 65-66 Twin I beam trucks (F100 & F250) and the 66 F100 4x4 had cabs without the steps inside the door. All of the F350's, 61-66, had steps and the battery in the floor.

[Blanger]

Only the 65-66 Twin I beam trucks (F100 & F250) and the 66 F100 4x4 had cabs without the steps inside the door. All of the F350's, 61-66, had steps and the battery in the floor.

Thank you Bill, I had no idea the cabs were different.

Jon

[Blanger]

Progress.....

The '62 now runs and drives, the issue with the fuel pump was a broken wire that I guess was caused by the CV being wrecked but didn't fully break until the harness was removed, there was some of the harness that had been pinched when we took it apart but didn't appear to be really damaged....wrong.

Using our old scanner from work I was able to energize the fuel pump circuit and follow where I had voltage and ground in the harness, it's a good way to diagnose problems which normally result in a bad pump, not this time. I had voltage at the inertia switch and leaving the switch but by the time it got to the pump it was gone, I had lengthened those wires and I guess I could have caused the problem but the power wire to the pump had a lot of green corrosion under the insulation.



And for the sake of simplicity I just ran a new circuit with a relay and fuse in the cab, while I was at it I eliminated the inertia switch because we don't really need it now, I did also include a "kill" switch on the dash to turn the fuel pump off, I may or may not keep that when the truck is finished.

So for the first time I was able to drive the '62 out of the shop, turn it around in the driveway, and let it run for enough time to check that everything was working as expected, so far so good....lol




As time allows the build should start to move forward a little quicker now that it's mobile under it's own power, first item will be finishing up the steering column mounts that I cobbled together, then prolly get the glass installed along with the doors reworked and hung, the rear fenders are going to require some time spent on them also to finish welding and smoothing them out....but that tunnel has a light shinning at the end of it that is becoming brighter. lol

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Sunday we spent some of the afternoon getting the cab on the C600 ready to be removed, in a few hours everything was disconnected, cut, or removed so the cab could be lifted off the chassis. Yesterday our friend Ryan came by with his crane truck and a trailer, plucked the cab off and sat it on one of our dollys, then picked up the C600 chassis and loaded it on his trailer, he said the weight of the lift was about 5k.



They have plans on using the chassis/frame from the C600 to build something, so it should be reborn/reused instead of going to scrap.

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The wife has been busy, it's coming up fast on racing season and she had a couple high dollar cars in the shop in the last few days, and while I can't really show you finished products here's what the shop looked like last week.



More later

Jon

[Blanger]

Mixed bag.....

As my wife was finishing up another race car this weekend I spent a few hours working on the C600 cab getting it sitting more balanced on the dolly, removing the hood, and stripping the mirrors off the doors. Eventually all the mounting that raised the cab up off the C600 chassis will have to be removed, all the mounts for the steps will have to be removed, modified, and of course new cab mounts fabricated. In the mean time the cab will have to be stripped of the doors, most of the under dash stuff, and all glass like we have done on the slicks we have built.



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The '62 spent more time outside basking in the sun than in the shop this weekend, while I spent time this weekend working on the donor box truck for the C600, it ran poorly when we got it and in checking it out had low fuel pressure (25psi) it would start but would hardly move under it's own power (no I'm not worried). The truck has sat for a couple years and a lot can happen in that time along with the fuel going stale.... the fuel pump was either bad, going bad, or went bad, either way it's suppose to have 50-65psi so a new pump was needed.



I really didn't want to drop the tank to gain access to the fuel pump, so since the bed floor will be replaced during the build it was easy enough to do a little dead reckoning and cut a hole in the floor right above the fuel tank and replace the pump....lol easy!

The wood floor is rotten back at the rear so it was going to be replace anyway, sad part is the rest of the floor was in great shape but all the while it has sat with the roll up door open exposed to the weather so in a couple years of exposure it started rotting.

As things normally go changing the pump got the fuel pressure up to the required 55 psi, but it had ran so poorly that it needed new spark plugs, we spent the rest of the day replacing the plugs which is a real pain in the ass on a GM G series van sitting out in driveway, it's much easier to pull the front wheels and go in through the inner fenders but where it was sitting outside that wasn't happening....lol



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Yesterday I spent most of the morning cleaning up the shop, then pulled out the drivers door for the '62 and started stripping the old paint off the interior of it, I have found using a angle grinder and a heavy cup brush works best to remove the old paint, it doesn't hardly do any damage to the metal surface and doesn't heat the metal up very much, it's also easy to get in nooks and cranny's to get the old paint off.

After stripping all the old paint I primed the interior of the door then when dried gave it a first coat of the mint green paint.... never really been a fan of green but this color on the '62 I really like how it looks.



More later

Jon

[unibody madness]

love following your builds, things look great. do you use a rust reformer primer before top coating? and who do you use to host your images?

[Blanger]

love following your builds, things look great. do you use a rust reformer primer before top coating? and who do you use to host your images?

Thank you Johnny!

Yeah in the areas where there is rust after buffing with the wire wheel I use this stuff..... https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... -reformer/

I've tried several different brands of the rust converter and was impressed with the Rustoleum product, it just always works very well. After that cures this build is getting a coat of flat black primer on everything, then 2 coats of the deep mint green which is also a Rustoleum color...lol

As for image hosting we use this place..... https://imageevent.com/

We have had a account there for years and years, they are very stable (always up), not too expensive, and for novice users take a lot of the guess work out of uploading, and the proper codes for different types of posting along with sizing of pictures, they are very flexible in the types of images and vids they can serve up for you.

Other than they are not a free service I have nothing bad to say about them at all....lol

Jon

[unibody madness]

Thanks I also find that if I chase the water out of the steel with a sweating torch just before I paint the rustoleum tends to stick better and dry faster, just need it to not get too hot so the paint does not burn when applied.
Keep doing the things you do its awesome to watch

[Blanger]

Thanks I also find that if I chase the water out of the steel with a sweating torch just before I paint the rustoleum tends to stick better and dry faster, just need it to not get too hot so the paint does not burn when applied.
Keep doing the things you do its awesome to watch

Thank you for the kind words.

Jon