Slick 60's

I was going to sell this truck but I realize that I can't do it. I bought this California truck in 1984 for $50.
It is already a driver but it runs warm in traffic and the scary stock brakes suck.
I decided to upgrade the radiator and brakes.
I bought a front axle off of Craigslist that has a disc kit on it.
Here is the radiator, fan and controller...



I realized that the core support was bent so I replaced that with one I had in my shed.


I had to make some brackets to move the radiator 1" forward so I'd have clearance for the fan. Everything fits nice now.

The truck has a 390/C6. I'll bend and flare some new trans cooler lines next week.

Looks good. How about some side pics of the whole truck?

Day 2 wrote:Looks good. How about some side pics of the whole truck?

Thanks. I'll get a pic of the side tomorrow. It's multicolored and pretty ugly. I'll paint it soon. I have an extremely cherry set of doors I'm going to put on, somebody hacked speaker holes in the doors that are on it now.
I bent and flared cooler lines today. Not my best effort, been a while since I did hard line, I'm a bit rusty.

I'm waiting on some 1" aluminum bar stock to make spacers for the electric fan. I'll probably mount the fan controller tomorrow.

Lines look good. I had mine like that, but the vibes kept cracking the radiator connection, I wound up putting in short lengths of trans hose.
Look forward to the pics.

Day 2 wrote:Lines look good. I had mine like that, but the vibes kept cracking the radiator connection, I wound up putting in short lengths of trans hose.
Look forward to the pics.

Thanks. I’m going to make a bracket to tie the lines to that limits the flex but isn’t a solid mount.

I made some shroud spacers out of 1" aluminum bar.


Got the fan mounted today and got most of the fan controller wired.

Looks good!

shipwrecked wrote:Looks good!

Thanks, bud

Got the adjustable fan controller wired today. Flushed the block before I hooked up the radiator hoses then flushed the cooling system. Luckily my local parts guy let me go behind the counter and search through the hoses to find something that would work.
This is the coolest this truck has run in 34 years. It used to creep to 190-195 idling now it stays at 180. The controller varies the fan speed depending on temp. It also runs the fan for approximately 1 minute after the ignition is turned off. I haven’t driven the truck yet because the grille isn’t bolted in and I have no hood latch.
I tied the cooler lines together which stopped them from vibrating while the engine is running.
I ordered some brake components and I’ll get on to the disc install now.
I like bending and flaring brake lines. I have a spare frame that will help during the brake long routing.

I got a chance to run down the road this weekend. I can’t believe how cool the truck runs. I’m completely thrilled with the new set up.

I love it when a plan comes together. Looking good, glad you decided to keep it, it will only be worth more the longer you keep it.

unibody madness wrote:I love it when a plan comes together. Looking good, glad you decided to keep it, it will only be worth more the longer you keep it.

Thanks, bud.

Bought a straight axle out of Nevada, mine had an out of round king pin hole on the left side that resulted in negative camber.

I also bought a steering box, mine needs a sector shaft bushing and has quite a bit of steering play as a result. I'll rebuild mine for a spare.
The steering box I bought was in incredibly good shape. I dissembled it for inspection and just wound up resealing it. Sector shaft seal is National #472560N in case anyone is interested. I couldn't find any 00 steering box grease locally so I had to order some online.

Couldn't find gaskets so I made one.

Brave. I sent my steering box to Lares Corp in the northern Minnesota or Wisconsin or Michigan are. Can’t rememebr but did it for 200 a full rebuild.

Keep on building!

shipwrecked wrote:Brave. I sent my steering box to Lares Corp in the northern Minnesota or Wisconsin or Michigan are. Can’t rememebr but did it for 200 a full rebuild.

Keep on building!

Thanks.
I’m an ASE certified mechanic. I do engines, auto and manual trans, suspension brakes, etc.
I also weld and do metal fabrication.
I’m not a mechanic by trade anymore so this is fun instead of necessary.
This truck is still going to be a work truck just with some upgraded components.

I ordered some disc conversion parts from Pirate Jack’s in N.C. and waited the 10 days or so for them to arrive.
I was pretty disappointed when I opened the box. Poor quality Chinese junk. The master wouldn’t line up on the brake booster, like the studs on the booster were too far apart down at the bottom. The master was the same style as a Ford but looked smaller. Most conversion kits use the Corvette style master and I didn’t like that. This kit was the only one that had a Ford style master. The master cylinder had a deep bore piston and the booster had a short shaft coming out of the front. The kit had a little spacer hotdog that was supposed to be inserted into the master cylinder piston to make it a shallow bore piston but the adjustment nub on the booster output shaft was too short to take up the slop. There was still almost 1/4” of slop.
I boxed it all back up except for the firewall bracket, filled out the return invoice and shipped the kit back via USPS (for $40.)
The website says 20% restocking fee if the parts are opened. Not sure how they expect you to inspect for quality and fitment without opening the individual packaging.
I have no idea how much they’re going to refund me or when. Nobody returned any of my emails.
I ordered an FT7 Bendix booster, a new Cardone master for a ‘75 F100 from the local parts house and a disc/drum fixed prop valve from Carolina Classics. This stuff should bolt up in the stock master location.
Live and learn, I guess.

Got $204.99 back from Pirate Jack’s today so I guess I’m ok with that. Cost me $40 to send back the Chinese junk. I don’t recommend PJ’s if you’re looking for quality brake items.

I got my brake pedal bushings and rebuilt a pedal assembly for my disc brake swap. The old pedal assembly was terribly worn out and had a lot of slop in in it.


Sent the hood latch pieces out for zinc plating.


I should have the booster, master and prop valve mounted this week.

I have the booster, master and combo valve mocked up and installed. Just have to take it all back apart, make some adjustments and then run the lines to the wheels. I've only made the lines from the master to the valve.


I tore the truck farther apart today. I'm trying to figure out which way to go, I want to do it nice but I don't want a trailer queen. I need a usable truck. I don't want to put the fresh axle and steering components on this ugly old frame. I have a spare frame that I'll powdercoat and swap. I guess I'll just get the suspension installed so it's a roller, pull the motor and trans and ship it off to the bodyshop. I can swap the frame after the body work. I don't want overspray and body shop dust on a fresh frame.

I enjoy the quality of work you do, and I'm just thrilled that you're really going to drive it. That's what they are made for......