Slick 60's

After hearing a nasty noise under the truck, I decided it was time to check the driveshaft. It was 100 degrees outside and I didn't really have the energy to get this 70 yo protoplasmic antique outside, but if I didn't do it, who would. But first, I tried a few service stations (five, to be exact). The price ranged from $200 and no guarantee to $2400 and no guarantee, and regardless of my choice there was a 1 week wait for the service. SO here it goes.
I crawled under the truck and wriggled the driveshaft. I noticed that the rubber between the carrier bearing and its housing was gone, so I took the 2 driveshafts out and went through them. The three U-joints wee good (actually quite good) so I changed out the carrier and reinstalled it. The noise got worse. Really, it's too hot for this, and I am too old, but I then lifted the rear axle and checked the wheel movement, I discovered that the left rear wheel bearing was howling. And, while it was disassembled, I noticed that the rear brake was shot, really shot. So I replaced the bearing and brakes. It took me 2 days to locate a store in town that even had the parts, but when I did find them, they were of the highest quality. While it was up, I checked the right rear and found the seal leaking, but the bearing in excellent shape, so I replaced the seal. I also noticed that the rr brakes were actually in excellent shape, but I changed it out anyway.
I also noticed that the diff pinion seal appeared to be leaking. And that the rear end was virtually empty of fluid. SO I put 2 quarts of gear oil in.
Success. The noise is gone and the truck now rolls quietly.
Unfortunately, I am now left with a leaky pinion seal and I am too afraid to tackle the job. And there is some play in the rear end. Not much, about an inch at the wheel. I need some serious morale help. What am I going to get into if I pull that rear yoke off. Can I remove the nut with a Harbor Freight discount impact wrench that has maybe 120 foot pounds of torque. Whats all this hoopla about a squeeze sleeve. Should I remove just the nut and yoke, or the carrier housing, or maybe the entire differential.
Really, if new and used cars weren't so expensive I would donate this thing the a sado-masochist society and let them figure it all out. Why can't I get enough energy to just finish the electric Porsche.

Can you get somebody to help you ?
A young 16 year old that wants to learn ?
Even if you paid him $20 an hour …
3 , 8 hour days would be less than $500
I’m thinking that would be a maximum cost…
I’m thinking you could get someone for far less labor cost
And not take near that many hours
I understand the frustration ,I can’t do a 1/3 as much as I use to
Good luck

I figure there are only three way that I can get help: First, I can pay someone, but at the snail's pace that I work, it would cost me a fortune; Second, I could find a friendly neighbor, but I am pretty sure the electric barbed wire fence and the 75 pound German Shepherd have turned most of my neighbors the other way: And third, I could find a beautiful woman, marry her, hope my parts still work, hope it is a boy, hope he does not want to live as a girl, and then wait 12 years.
Actually, I have been watching a number if YouTube videos on 9" differential repair, trying to get my gander up enough to tackle the job. So far it hasn't helped. I was also hoping a couple of group members that live in Tucson might help me, but they changed their phone numbers.
Right now, it will probably cost me a quart of gear oi every couple of weeks. Hopefully, I can make it to the cooler weather.

$850! I guess it's my fault. You ignore something long enough and it will bite you back. After washing the diff, I noticed that the oil leak was fairly universal. There was quite a bit of slap in the yoke. And even a periodic clunk. I had to make a decision; do I go buy a new car or fix this old thing up ... again ... for the nth time. I thought hard about what what going to be needed to make this truck my daily driver again. It all came to about $4500. Rebuilt motor, trans, and rear axle.
I did some more math. If I bought a new car, say a Ford Maverick Hybrid, it would cost me thirty grand. Well, OK, I guess I could bite that bullet. But then I started to add all the rest in. That truck does not get to me for that price. There are additional costs. There is the $3300 tax, the dealer fees (about $1000), and the registration fee (about $2000). If I added all that up (over 5 grand), I figured that I could completely restore this truck, make it a decent daily driver again, and still be under all of the ancillary costs of that $30000 nightmare. Yes, maybe I would have air conditioning again, or enough heat to de-ice my windshield, but do I want to pay that $100/month insurance bill for the rest of my life.
So I took it to the differential repair place. Their inspection revealed to me all that I already suspected, and even a bit more. But they said that I could have a virtually new rear end for $850. I didn't want to shell all that out, but it would be nice to uncomplicate my problems by one third member.
So, in a day or two, I should get my truck back, with the oil-leaking engine, the clunking transmission and the 90,000 mile worn clutch. But damn! At least the differential will be like new.
And this gives me a little more time to work on my unfinished electric car, my house wiring, the 27 yo water heater, the damaged front wall of my mobile home,....