OK so a 88 302 HO in a 61-64

[Greg D]

OK I can pretty much figure this one out on my own aside from one thing. Will the oil pan work or will I have to change it and the pickup tube? Thanks Guys!

[Uncle Skip]

Greg.
351.
Oh yeah. Sweet.
All you have to do is cut out the crossmember where the original transmission bolts.
I used a fire wrench on the drivers side because I wanted to leave a small amount of it in place to bolt the e-brake cable to. I just ground and punched out the rivets on the other side.
Watch out for the fuel line and brake line when you do your cutting ..... or just plan to replace them as you get to it.
Just get the Trans-a-dapt kits from the back of Dennis Carpenter's catalog and your all set.
Dead freaking easy.
You'll need one for the motor and one for the transmission.
The motor mount has an inverted L-shaped flange that lays on top of the frame. You can slide the motor back and forth for fittment. Use a couple of C-clamps on the transmission mount to hold things steady.
Don't drill and bolt them down until you see how much clearance you're going to have with your radiator. You need to have about a 2" clearance between the fan and the radiator unless you're planning to use an electric unit.
U@ss

[shawns fords]

why does he need to cut out the crossmember? mine is still in my 64. with the 460/C6 I wouldnt have put the 460 in there if I had to do that, like that strength from the crossmember. does the windsor sit lower?

[Gritsngumbo]

Skip: OK! I'll bite. What's a fire wrench?

[shawns fords]

Skip: OK! I'll bite. What's a fire wrench?

thats an oxygen - acetalene cutting torch

[Greg D]

Fire wrench, replacement in my garage is the angle grinder &/or the sawzall, lol. Shawn does make a point about the crossmember though and I am talking about the original "Flex-O-Truck" a Ford Uni, lol.
Skip I appreciate the tips, I already pretty much had a handle on that stuff. I may use the setup LMC sells too, not a full crossmember but new towers & engine mounts. Summit has the Transdapt crossmember for $92 with the new pads. I don't have a DC catalog.
I still need to know about the oil pan though. I can't remember if the
1) 83 F 150 uses a rear sump pan and
2) don't know if I need front or rear sump in a straight axle truck with a Windsor.

Seems a rear sump would be best for axle clearance but I'm not sure, CRS must have set in on this one.

Over 1220 posts, sheesh, I need to get a life, lol

[ICEMAN6166]

if you get a240/300 6 cyl bell housing from a 65-66 f250 4x4 or f350 it will bolt up to the crossmember with no need to cut, then you of course must make one of the front mount brackets either 292 or 352 work for the front.

[Greg D]

I thought about going that route Iceman when I was looking for a 300-6. I already cut the mount pedestal for the 292 off of the frame to install the 223 though. making a horseshoe mount for a Windsor would probably require using an electric fuel pump so I could block off the mechanical pump.

[ICEMAN6166]

I thought about going that route Iceman when I was looking for a 300-6. I already cut the mount pedestal for the 292 off of the frame to install the 223 though. making a horseshoe mount for a Windsor would probably require using an electric fuel pump so I could block off the mechanical pump.

Greg, not sure what the total length of the 302/351 is compared to the others. 292 is longer than the FE by 2".
the part you cut off is riveted on to the 4x4s and f350s so you could re-install if needed. all the horseshoe pieces FE and 292 allow for the stock fuel pump so i dont see an issue there.

i have a 65 f350 in the yard that had a non original 352 with the original mounted bell , someone made plate steel towers welded on the frame so there were 4 mounting points instead of 3. the normal 2wd fe pan had no clearance issue with the straight axle so i dont see the normal 2wd 351 pan having one.

[Fanatic]

Greg, To answer your original question. I have a 302 in my Uni from a 96 PU and it has the double sump pan. There is ALOT of clearance to the straight axle. I can't imagine that ANY pan would be a problem. My motor mount system is rather unique but the motor mounts are not the issue anyway.

Tim

[Greg D]

Thanks Tim!
Brian, I already thought this route out, it would require fabbing up bellhousing mounts for the AOD, could be done but.........
I found a $300 dollar F 150 that runs & drives - no title. Perfect drive line donor for a quick swap. I will want to see if I can get it done over a weekend so fabbing too much unique stuff would slow me down too much. Definitely not a bad idea though.

[Truckrat]

Greg, My son and I used the exact set up you were asking about on his 63, and there is plenty of room for the pan. We used a 68 302 engine with a C4 and it fit in great. We cut
the tube down a bit on the passenger side so we could gain some clearance for exhaust and steering on the drivers side. Our crossmember came from Trans Dapt and it had two flat plates with slightly larger tubes welded on them to go on each end of the crossmember. Once the engine was set in we could adjust it side to side for clearance and then tack weld the thing together. Each flat plate had 4 holes and we marked the holes and drilled the frame so we could bolt it in. Works great, and the 63 still has the beam axle in it. We also used the same tranny crossmember Skip described, also from Trans Dapt. Check out Classic Performance Products, They sell a combo kit starting at $120.00 that includes both crossmembers and engine and tranny mounts included.
www.classicperform.com
I think this is about the best deal around Keep us posted, Greg. TR

[Greg D]

I hadn't checked my CPP catalog yet, $120 for both mounts is a pretty good deal after looking a Summit etc. Summit has the engine crossmember alone for $49, but you have to use Transdapts mount pads with it don't you?
Gonna go look a the donor here in awhile. I will also have to have everything ready to go before I bring the donor home. As soon as I get started someone around here will be on the phone to code enforcement.
$300 for a 351 & AOD plus whatever other parts I can rob off of the thing isn't a bad deal. Plus The guy I call to haul off junkers gives me $160 for them!

[Johnny Canuck]

double post

[Johnny Canuck]

why does he need to cut out the crossmember? mine is still in my 64. with the 460/C6 I wouldn't have put the 460 in there if I had to do that, like that strength from the crossmember. does the windsor sit lower?

Shawn, that cross member is cut out of my 64 and was cut out of my 63, but not all the way. it was shaved down to a strap going across the bottom of the tranny . I don't know how you got a c6 to fit in there without renovation, but good on ya. you are a better man than most here it seems. How about some pics on how to pull that one off bro?

[shawns fords]

johnny it fit right in without any clearance problems. I used the old block and trans before rebuilds. mocked it all up it fit perfect. I have about a 1/2 inch of clearance from cylinder head to firewall. Had to get it back was far as possible to make room for the radiator.

Greg I still have a front sump pan on my 460. but would prefer a Rear. there is about 6 inches from the axel to the pan. I will have to just take it easy until I decide to break down and buy a rear sump setup.
The dual sump would be my choice for yours as well. look for a lincoln or crown civ that would have one

[Greg D]

Turns out the truck is a F-250 with a 351/C6. I drove it, engine runs pretty good fires right up (could use a tune up) and the C-6 shifts just fine. He wants to keep basically the whole truck and just sell the engine and tranny any other incidentals, spark control box, etc I can have. I can either bring the truck here pull what I want and he will come get it with his trailer when I done or he will just cut the crossmembers and pull it for me. He basically wants to turn the box & frame into a trailer and wants to keep the doors grill etc for spares for his 83 F-350 (it has a 460 so the driveline is no good to him).

[Greg D]

Ok, Skip and/or anyone else. I have found 2 types of motor mount from Transdapt,
1) is a crossmember that has 2 end caps that bolt to the frame

2) is a set of 2 separate mounts that appear to lay on top of the frame.

If the crossmember one ends up over the axle will it sit low enough to interfere with suspension travel?
Which one were you referring to?

[Garbz]

Greg

Every truck i have done from 61 to 64 had this crossmember removed, Why....Well you cannot remove a C6 From the engine with it in place. You need to remove the entire drive train to service the transmission. Not much fun when doing a converter or flexplate change. The crossmember is not necessary once the engine crossmember is place and a transmission crosmember is in.

It is just in the way for exhaust and not necessary. Plus it is a PITA getting the end of the tail shaft accross and over the dang thing.While trying to set an engine in place with the fornt clip in place.

I run the 472 Lima/C6 in my 64 and dont have frame flex.

Garbz

[Truckrat]

Greg, the crossmember we used with the end caps that bolt to the framerails had plenty of clearance for suspension travel. Our 63 has had several leafs removed out of the front springs and clears fine. It probably dropped it about 2-3 inches in front doing that, but the frontend is the same as yours. Actually I don't recommend taking leaves out of your springs, at least not half of them.
Flipping the main leaf and having it rearched with the eyes reversed will do the same thing and not compromise the ride. My son did the leaf removal a couple of years ago and it wasn't one his better ideas, but they have to learn the hard way sometimes. TR