por 15 disaster

Country · Post by **Country** » November 5, 2007, 9:15 pm

My frame off restoration took a left turn today and not for the good!!!!!

Prepped my frame per POR 15 instructions. Marine Clean, Metal Ready.
Paint day temp was 73F clear and sunny. Applied paint with a brush.
Ordered pints of the semi gloss. Once I painted the whole frame I noticed that the paint was blotchy and uneven regarding gloss of paint. The best way I can describe it.... is if you were to wash a newly painted black frame with hard water and let it dry. It looks like crap!!!! I am wondering if I have done something wrong. The driveshaft I painted earlier came out great.
Maybe I was shipped some pints that were mislabled...don't know.

I ordered semi gloss black but it looks like the frame has been painted with a mixture of black (flat) and semi. Has any one else had this happen? What a frustrating situation. There is know way I will leave a frame looking like this!!!

What 1 part paint spray have you guys top coated por 15 with ......what a freaking mess.

Phil · Post by **Phil** » November 5, 2007, 9:34 pm

Ive had it peel off in sheets after following all the instructions/prep products.

I am getting more sure batch quality is spotty (pardon the pun) the more experiences I have

I have spray painted it with rustoleum #7777 while it was still tacky.
I'd also consider scuffing it with scotchbright or 220 grit and priming it with spraybomb. Then painting

They do sell a POR Tiecoat primer if you are about doing itas per instructed

unibodyboy · Post by **unibodyboy** » November 5, 2007, 9:57 pm

Get someone to blast it for you, and then paint or powdercoat it. It'll be so much nicer in the long run.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » November 5, 2007, 10:00 pm

so far after several years i have had no problem. i recall doing 2 coats on the frame the first was kind of flat,then the top coat was the semi-gloss. i also did it on a sunny day with a brush so thats not an issue. mislabeling is always a possibility.

i would contact the place you bought the POR from or POR directly.

edit
i looked in my por book to see
the frame was first coated with por-15 (step 3) then a topcoat of chassis black described as "smooth satiny semi-gloss" (step 4)
steps 1 and 2 were the cleaner and metal-ready.

the reason for the 4th step is because the POR15 is affected by UV rays .the top coatings are not affected.

UNIFAN · Post by **UNIFAN** » November 5, 2007, 10:06 pm

We sprayed it on a similar day with no issues over a sandblasted surface being the only prep. No marine clean etc...

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 5, 2007, 10:14 pm

here is semi gloss on my front axel. two coats, it looks much better in person than in pics. I dont know why it wouldnt come out even straight out of the can unless it has been old product? mabye shelf life is only a year, some of the coating products I use are one year shelf life

Country · Post by **Country** » November 5, 2007, 10:25 pm

ordered it 3 weeks ago. Man, mine does not even look remotely like yours. I'm gonna call them tommorow. This is a bunch of crap. Chances are I will have the frame sandblasted and start over with another brand if I can't salvage this mess. The drive shaft i did about 6 months ago turned out great. That was my test in using this stuff ...now I'm really regreting it.

Country · Post by **Country** » November 5, 2007, 10:31 pm

I just went out to the garage and took a screwdriver and without much effort was able to scrap the paint off the frame. I'm getting the sick feeling.

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » November 5, 2007, 11:14 pm

I have to agree with unibodyboy. Take all your parts to a powdercoater and get a price(you might be surprised). I got mine done about 4 years ago. They sandblasted all the parts and powdercoated for $550.00. They did the frame, crossmember, frontend parts,rear axle, coil springs, sway bars, dust shields,spindles and other misc parts. I don't know if they were desperate for work or if that is normal pricing.
Check on price anyway. You can't hardly buy good paint for that price.

Kevin

megabork · Post by **megabork** » November 5, 2007, 11:28 pm

for all that is insane wow what a deal, im actaully going thru the same thing lol i use a epoxy paint and for som reason it wont dry on the parts i sprayed uh ohh,, i just paid 265 bonz for just the fron end parts to be coated (all for 65 galxie)

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » November 5, 2007, 11:33 pm

I put por 15 directly on a sandblasted frame 3 years ago and it still looks like I painted it yesterday. While my body was gone (2 years, long story) I used that frame even as an anvil on occasion and could not so much as scratch the stuff, if it had been power coat it would have shattered and fallen off like glass. POR 15 and Bars' Leak are the 2 products I have ever used that actually DO what they say they will do, and I swear by them both. something is definitely wrong. Maybe you should have put on 2 coats.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » November 6, 2007, 2:46 am

you used your frame as an anvil??? haha holy shit. I can't believe it didn't knock the stuff off.

By the sounds of how he was able to knock the stuff off with a screwdriver, I think something was more wrong than needing another coat.

Was is mixed well? If it was still partially separated, it could have made all sorts of trouble. kinda like you don't want separated mustard on your weiner, you don't want separated paint on your truck. it just aint no good.

Z-MAN · Post by **Z-MAN** » November 6, 2007, 3:47 am

I have had good luck with it here.

My only disaster was my own fault by not following instructions and wearing gloves. I definately wear them now.

[albumimg]2724[/albumimg]

Z

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » November 6, 2007, 8:42 am

Seriously. I was using it to straighten bent nails, never even scratched it. I was suitably impressed.

unibodyboy · Post by **unibodyboy** » November 6, 2007, 9:23 am

Kstone, you got a much better deal than I. I payed 500 for all the powdercoating(same parts and pieces as you to the T) but I did all the sandblasting myself. One of the reasons i'm in college is because of sandblasting. Hahahaha.

Max · Post by **Max** » November 6, 2007, 9:26 am

I know they recommend using their Marine Clean and Metal Ready and all that, but seems to be that POR-15 works best on just plain clean ol' rusty metal - meaning, slather the stuff on bare metal that's otherwise chemical-free.

Either that or I'm just too cheap to buy any of their other expensive products other than POR-15 itself.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 6, 2007, 10:12 am

hey country, did you by chance go over the frame with a wire brush before, to remove all the old scale? also por is to be applied over rusted metal, if you applied it over old paint that could be the other reasoning. anytime you apply a coating it has to adhere to an etched surface ( of course) and when working with a frame, or something that has tight corners and crevices. if there is old paint in there that could be the reasoning behind it nod adhering properly. I have a buddy up in washington that did his F100 chassis. he cant even get a grinder to get por off of it. the picture of my axel is pretty durable as well. of course I didnt try to grind on it afterwords, but did try to dig into it with a sharp edge and it just made a small mark that faded away after sitting in the sun for a couple of hours
these are just ideas because I dont know what all has been done to prep the product

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » November 6, 2007, 11:29 am

Johnny Canuck wrote:I put por 15 directly on a sandblasted frame 3 years ago and it still looks like I painted it yesterday. While my body was gone (2 years, long story) I used that frame even as an anvil on occasion and could not so much as scratch the stuff, if it had been power coat it would have shattered and fallen off like glass. POR 15 and Bars' Leak are the 2 products I have ever used that actually DO what they say they will do, and I swear by them both. something is definitely wrong. Maybe you should have put on 2 coats.

besides my frame i also used por on other areas, the firewall, stepwells and kickpanels have the hardnose 2 stage paint, have not been able to scratch those with gravel stuck in my boots.'
also did the inside and outside (bottom) of the cab floor with por gray, same thing, its tough as hell. used it on the drip rails too.

have a couple brushes that turned into chisels when they dried.
peeled out some that dried inside a plastic tub, came out in one piece and the edge was sharp like a knife.

Country · Post by **Country** » November 6, 2007, 7:40 pm

Well I contacted POR today. They told me that sometimes when painting with the semi gloss black what happened to me regarding blotchy dull spots can happen. The solution they told me was to top coat with of course one of their products. Regarding removing the paint with a screw driver....Its not easy to scrap the paint off but it does come off. To compare I checked a drive shaft I did about six months ago and forget it, that stuff was rock hard. POR told me that since the paint had only been on for about 12 hours that it was not cured.

Currently skeptical about the whole situation. Thinking I will sand blast it and start over. Topcoating only to wonder if it will come off in a few years does not appeal to me. The jury is still out on this one. I'm not knocking the product because my prior use was as advertised BUT it was with black, not the semi gloss black.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » November 6, 2007, 10:58 pm

i would topcoat it.ask them for a better deal on the topcoat.
i did not try to scrape any off mine when it was still wet, in fact i did not touch it at all for several days after doing the topcoat.