new subframe

[RED]

I'm still on my quest to find the best way to do this. I called Fat Man Fabs and they have some pretty nice stuff and make a pretty nice subframe that will work nice with the slicks. Anybody know how well their products work and how hard they are to put in. The sales rep told me they send exact measurements and all the gussets and supports. They are pretty expensive but are damn nice. Let me know.

[Greg D]

Red, if you have a crn vic/marquis front clip why not just rebuild it.

[ELpolacko]

They are pretty expensive but are damn nice.

Pretty funny joke there.....



Why do you want to buy an aftermarket subframe instead of just a crossmember installation kit?

I have written at length about Mustang II based suspensions before. Let me just cut to the quick: Will it work-short answer is yes, Will it last-short answer is "maybe" but real world applications shows a good percentage of them failing at 30-40K miles.

The MII is a great donor suspension for vehicles that are of similar weight and width. Your truck is easily 1500 pounds heavier than a stock Mustang II, carries at least 800+ of those pounds over the front axle and is 4 inches narrower than the 61-64 F100. Widening the track width is known to increase understeer on an already "fair" front end but most aftermarket manufacturers alter the geometry to make installation easier, this mod decreaces the camber curve (wheel goes straight up and down with less arc) which adds to the problem. An anti-roll bar is an absolute must to make the suspension seem normal, not for performance handling.

Do your research thoroughly, don't let cost be your only factor in making your decision. Remember, you get what you pay for (most of the time).

[UNIFAN]

All of the trucks in my album sport a mustang II front crossmember. Everyone is very happy with how they perform but they are being used more for leisure than heavy use. Something similar to a crown vic snub will for sure be stronger but you may sacrifice a little on the visual side of things like the stance of the truck or even the installation. You have to decide first what is most important in the build. Will it be a low slung cruiser or a very usable truck that will still be used as a truck with IFS. I have a work truck and use my truck for pleasure so it works great for my application.

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

I WITH ELpolacko,, Mustang 2 is nothing but a glorified pinto or bobcat , if you want something for a trailer queen then go for it, Want something more reliable the do something else cause your not, not going to get anything out of the mustang like EL said a big weight difference, then add if going big block add A/C Parts Power Steering Parts etc,.. I have seen many trucks sold right after they finished because the suspension they installed was not worth the #800 call to fatman he could talk to blue in the face and still will not get my vote. if your going to uses it day after day as a good looking driver I would use the Trans Am or Z-cars for the bigger sway bar,, change those junkie small rotors get some big 12" on the front 5 on 5 toss the rear away, get the Mark 5 rear with 5 on 5 keep the sway bar that came with it and that my friends is STOPPING POWER and up grading coil suspension as well,, in fact the last one I did the FE Motor fit better in that frame than it did in the Ford chassis,, I am by far not a believer in GM But I have closed my eyes and grit my teeth on this, just my

[RED]

[img][img]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc256/rezzdog32/100_0778.jpg[/img]
The tank fits pretty well
[img][img]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc256/rezzdog32/100_0777.jpg[/img]
This is the passenger side and this side sits pretty level. The pickup sagged on the drivers side.
[/img]
passenger side again

Drivers side and there is a little wrinkle on the left above the lower arm. They had spacers in the spring to help but still sagged.



Now is there a difference between the OEM mustang II and aftermarket mustang II type.

[The Big M]

No gussets? Just one weld per side holding the clip to the original frame? Wow. That looks way too simplistic. And judging from the photos in your other thread, it appears that it's been welded too far back. That may have been done in an attempt to set the engine back and gain some clearance for the radiator, but in my opinion it just looks wrong.

Is it possible that your cab has just sagged, or maybe just the spring?
If so, you may be able to salvage that clip, but I think you'll want to move it forward and add some gusseting. Boxing the frame rails might help too.

[ELpolacko]

Not the worst subrame job I have seen. You could save it by finding a body shop willing to work with you. If they could pull it back into alignment you could go back and box the frame rails and put in the needed support to prevent this sort of thing from happenng again.

Aftermarkt MII stuff is odd. The Chinese repop arms are total crap. Thinner guagematerial and non replaceable bushings in the cheap arms, some of the newer arms are better. Spindle wise all of the forged ones I have seen are as good or better than OEM. Still doesn't help that it is a suspension designed for a compact car not a full-mid sized truck.