1 PC SIDE WINDOW KIT

STYLN63 · Post by **STYLN63** » November 8, 2007, 11:39 am

I've seen a few done but would like know where to look for the 1 pc side window kit. And, would like to hear the results from someone who has done it. Are they smooth when moving up and down. Are they quiter at 70 mph than the wing vent? How much of the door has to be cut? That kind of stuff.

FORDBOYpete · Post by **FORDBOYpete** » November 8, 2007, 3:42 pm

In order to give Slicks one piece door windows you have to either make it have
suicide doors or figure out another way to hinge the door off the "A" Pillar some the way.

The way it is made, & probably one reason they last so long, is the internal hinge boxes
inside the door framework, that hold the weight up so well, also eats up the needed space
under the OEM Vent Window where the forward portion of one piece glass would have to go
to close a window hole in upper part of doors. Other than all this, it's probably pretty easy;
if you own a body shop or have a huge disposable bankroll. :roll:

FBp

turtle1056 · Post by **turtle1056** » November 8, 2007, 4:00 pm

I am curious - couldnt one make a window mechaism that rolled counterclockwise/clockwise like a lot of sixties rear windows did to clear wheelwells?

That way the one piece window would rotate around the inner structure and up into place

I bet it wouldnt be that hard to figure out the mechanicals and make it power at the same time - especially if one were to hunt up an old sixties car with the right kinda rear window mechanisms

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » November 8, 2007, 4:25 pm

that is an interesting idea, using the rear window mechs. I wonder how well it would actually work out though. Trouble is, there really isn't much place for it to tilt to... the rear windows in the cars had the whole rear quarter panel to go into, we are limited to the door...

I remember a few posts about the project that said they DID install the big glass in a stock door, but they had to "clearance" the hinge structure with a grinder. I have no idea how much integrity this would remove, but I imagine the doors should befine as long as you don't hang from them. I have not examined my inner structure to see how it would work out though.

What I wanna do is get the window mechanism out of something like my roommate's 05 mustang, the windows are free-standing glass, with no door frame or even chrome trim on the '60s cars. My dad's 68 LTD has chrome trimmed freestanding windows, as does my ma's 69 camaro. They are cool, but I would like to have just the glass. This is a critical part of my dream of clipping off the top. But unlike most of the trucks that have had the top removed, I am NOT going to weld the window slots shut. this would be the easiest way out, but I intend to keep a removable hardtop.

I just thought, it wouldn't be as slick as a one piece glass, but it would be less noisy, look almost like a one piece, if you replaced the wing window with a fixed pane, and a small chrome channel between the panes. ah, it's probably just a bad idea...

FORDBOYpete · Post by **FORDBOYpete** » November 8, 2007, 4:54 pm

This is what I was refertring to when I added quote below to my reply. Here's where a huge disposable Bank Roll comes in at.

FORDBOYpete wrote:: Other than all this, it's probably pretty easy;
if you own a body shop or have a huge disposable bankroll.

When Door window is a 1 pc you sacrifice cab cross ventilation, o'course BA has it covered with either his drop top or roadster P/U Design.

But my 85 T-Bird which I would fight to the death to keep, has a mono-window so either it's A/C or road noise you can't believe, and so it is with my Aerostar & Mamma's Toyota (which I rode in,..... once) too.

I think I'll "let style slide in favor of function & practicality & noise abatement" & keep my vent windows in, & working well.
Hey call me old fashioned & out of date, Huh?

WTH

I Jus' LUVE a Kewl Breeze as much as Kewl CASH

FBp

DocDave · Post by **DocDave** » November 8, 2007, 7:59 pm

The whole reason vent windows were invented was to reduce the noise and rain soaking of rolling down a full window
The free standing as you guys call them have more attachment points, usually drilled holes in the 60's 70's and 80's glass that allow for the window to have support by bolting to the vertical tracks. Otherwise you need a track or channel at least on one side.
A chop top door is best to leave the front part attached up to the top of the vent area and put a channel in it for support when the window is up. Then the window is left long enough that the rear channel keeps the front of the window from coming away from its channel.

I've done a few conversions from scratch from vent to full and manual to power when I had my shop. But I wouldnt attempt the slick without a major hinge mod. Willey I think fabbed some new hinges that would work by bending the originals 90 degrees and a backing plate inside the door. This would leave enough room for a one piece. Power would be a snap after that. A GM regulator that has the plastic ladder strip from the 80's would bolt right in.
Thats enough info
I used to charge for this kind of consult! :lol:

Dave

61 Merc · Post by **61 Merc** » November 8, 2007, 10:40 pm

Shawns Fords has done a one piece conversion, which is available from Bob's F100 in a kit form. Shawn has some pictures, but not of the installation, but of the after. He told me he was willing to give any information he could about it.

Some of the drawbacks are you can't use a door pocket and you can't use the manual window actuator. The pro's are you lighten the door by a number of pounds.

Drop Shawn a note, he'll give you some information

Phil · Post by **Phil** » November 8, 2007, 11:01 pm

vent windows fully open = groin AC

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 8, 2007, 11:52 pm

yes I did put the one piece glass in my 64. it was quite a job but its a great look. you need to make some brackets to mount your power window motor and they will need to flex a bit as the glass rolls up because it has to go up/ then foward right before it gets to the top to seat itself shut. as far as noise at 70 mph I couldnt tell ya. I havent had it on the street yet because the truck isnt finished. even when it is I prob wont be able to tel lyou because the warlocks are kinda noisey ( thats how i like it :lol:

)
youll have to cut out some of your hinge pocket as well to allow room for the new glass to roll up and down. classic trucks rag had an article in there on how part of it is done, and they didnt tell me everything i needed to know. like the cost was almost double of what they said in their article :evil:

I already was in a mind frame to do it, so I bought the glas and track and runners. then found my own window motor kits, saved me a few hundred bucks going this route I have some pics of how some of it is done, dont have a complete start to finish article, like Greg does , mainly because I didnt have a camera or a way to post pictures without a scanner or anything like that. but here is some of what I have
the day I brought him home

[/img]

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 8, 2007, 11:56 pm

here are a few shots of the track in front and back where the pocket was cut and such

you can see the above photo, there is a place to mount the track at bottom. I recomend making this an adjustable mount oval slot or something of the likes so you can make sure glass will run up and down freely

this one here is the rear of the door, you can see the latch just behind the track. the mount also at bottom should be adjustable a tad

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 8, 2007, 11:58 pm

its a tight fit, but you can do iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit

below is the hinge at top on drivers door, I could knly use the two bolts instead of all three because it interferes with the glass.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 9, 2007, 12:00 am

here is somewhat of a finished project, I want to save up and buy them window motor switches that use a regular window crank handle instead of a button, but them fuggers are 100 bucks a side!

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 10, 2007, 1:26 am

another thing before I forget, I took the spring out of my hinge to keep it from applying so much tension on the hinge when closing, I watched it several times ( like homer simpson, door goes open...door goes shut) and it was flexing the hinge at the point to where it mounted. took that spring off and it was fine. I might later on, make some kind of reinforcement brace to weld in there for added strength. but right now all I am trying to do is make everything I do functional. detail stuff can be worked out later. I want to drive the damn thing someday not turn it into a lifetime project thats never finished. thats what it feels like lately

Truckfarmer · Post by **Truckfarmer** » November 10, 2007, 7:10 am

Shawn, thanks for the excellent photos. Some guys at other sites would not share that kind of info. That's what separates us from the crowd.
When looking at the pics of the hinges, have you considered adding a couple of gussets to strengthen that area? In my mind, that would make it more solid and still not interfere with the window operation. Again thanks for the great update info!

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 10, 2007, 3:51 pm

Truckfarmer, I had thougth about that and still do, but I also see there is no major flexing in the door when opening and closing without that hing spring on the detent that keeps door from closing when the wind blows. they both are pretty solid, and much much lighter this way. as my previous post was mentioning. I might do some reinforcement in the future if not for anything but a safer piece of mind, lol

I wish I had more pictures. I dont mind sharing my ideas with folks. my problem is I dont like taking time when im working to get my nice new camera all greasey lol. if anyone decides to do this, I can walk them through with any concerns they might have, once you buy the tracks and glass, it is pretty self explanatory. and a guy can do it with basic hand tools, and a sawzall and die grinder with cut off wheels and a carbide burr set

STYLN63 · Post by **STYLN63** » November 12, 2007, 5:14 pm

Shawn-
Thanks a lot for the info and pics. I had posted the question a few days back and hadn't had the time to look for replies. It was killing me. What a suprise. Thanks again. I'll send some pics if and when I get time to do the mods.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 12, 2007, 8:52 pm

no problem stylin, you can also buy these doors already done this way directly from Bobs F100 parts. unless they changed their minds. I dont know how much it would cost you to go that route.
cant wait to see what ya got goin, hurry up with them pics!

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » November 13, 2007, 11:21 pm

hmmm, can only use 2 bolts in the hinge.... that sounds slightly poopy. I think If it came down to it, I might grind the head of the bolt a bit thinner, but not remove it... Also definitely needs some gussets... I'd hate to see the doors fall off yer truck...

whoever it was that mentioned me having it covered.... haha I dunno, I imagine I am gonna attempt all that someday, but It is def. not done, and is gonna open up a 55gallon drum full of worms of little detail type issues to work out.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » November 13, 2007, 11:24 pm

they arent very heavy doors, as well, them bolts are plenty big. I thought about grinding a bolt head down but it works just fine

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » November 14, 2007, 11:41 pm

yeah, you're probably right. not terrible heavy, and the bolts most likely are more than enough... but for whatever reason, I prefer to over-kill when I modify, not reduce factory integrity.