Wheel Bolt Pattern on CV

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » December 10, 2007, 9:28 pm

Most circle track cars use the larger patterns. some of a street stock class might be forced to run smaller patterns but those classes have less load than the faster care. The old time modified racers went to a lot of trouble to run the old Ford spider wheel centers because of the huge bolt pattern. they rarely suffered a pulled wheel center.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » December 10, 2007, 10:17 pm

oh yeah? I didn't know that...

I suppose as wheels got better it wasn't so much of a critical issue anymore? As I see they went to big trouble for huge patterns back in the day, but not so concerned anymore...

What sort of patterns do they run on Dragsters/Funnycars?

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » December 10, 2007, 10:50 pm

It looks like the NHRA runs everything from 4.5" to 5.5" but have to be NHRA approved. That's why a lot of those cars are running Weld and other race wheels. I believe your basic street cars run what you brung.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » December 10, 2007, 11:44 pm

Im surprised the extreme duty race cars aren't using something exotic like a 6 inch pattern, or even more surprised they're runnin 5 lug systems, not pushing for 8 lugs on the freaky cars...

Just seems like something that's busting 300 mph on the quarter would need somethin super tough.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » December 11, 2007, 5:59 am

I dont think they are loaded like a circle track car or road race car. All the turns put a lot of stress on the wheel centers and studs. Plus you get to inspect your wheels after every 1/4 mile. :lol:

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 11, 2007, 9:26 am

Another thread gone bad...now we're talking about circle track racing??? Let's get back to my problem guys...it's all about me, me, me. LOL

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 11, 2007, 10:04 am

Jacked threads are more the norm than the exception in Slick world here. You grow to love it. LOL

effienut2 · Post by **effienut2** » December 11, 2007, 5:30 pm

I visited a friend of mine whose business is to build street rods and other custom fabrication. While I was there he showed me a '56 F100 that he had grafted on a '04 CV front end. It was really cool. With minor fabrication (for him) it is a bolt on installation. Then I see the posts here and it seems that the CV front end is a big hit. Will it fit on a twin I-Beam slick? And I guess that the '03 - '06 CV are the years to look for? I also am thinking that this would be great for my '52 F-1.

It's amazing the info that I find here. My '66 sb is almost ready. I'm putting in the interior now, bucket seats from an '87 LTD, custom console, stock instrument cluster and lots of fabrication work involved. But it sure is fun.

I will post some pics soon.

Thanks to all.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 11, 2007, 5:48 pm

effienut2 wrote:I visited a friend of mine whose business is to build street rods and other custom fabrication. While I was there he showed me a '56 F100 that he had grafted on a '04 CV front end. It was really cool. With minor fabrication (for him) it is a bolt on installation. Then I see the posts here and it seems that the CV front end is a big hit. Will it fit on a twin I-Beam slick? And I guess that the '03 - '06 CV are the years to look for? I also am thinking that this would be great for my '52 F-1.

Would you ask your friend if 15" wheels will fit the 12" rotors without hitting the calipers? Or if you can use the pre-98 rotors and hubs on the 03-06 spindles.

As I understand the cossmember install, 03 to 06 (and probably07) CV, Grand Marquis (and very possibly the Town Car) will work. It's also being used in kit car builds.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 12, 2007, 5:24 am

61ford wrote:the hubs may not interchange between those years since they changed the crossmember in 03 just something to think about.far as wheels i cant tell you will need need some large wheels atleast 15" ive got a 14 on the front of mine from a ranger and it rubs and really hard to get it to turn.far as cost youll prolly stll be cheaper with a cv swap last time i checked inot a disc brake kit it was gonna run 350.00 itself

I have confirmed that the hubs will not interchange...so there goes that solution.

Ryan, since you have your CV cross member installed can you tell if the 15's will clear the rotors? If they will that will solve my problem, but I really don''t want to go to 16's. Thanks in advance. Gerald

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 12, 2007, 9:16 pm

i highly doubt that a 15 would but i dont have one laying around prolly why ford switched to a 16" on these i guess also offset would come into play whether it would work ,on my ranger wheel i had to turn it around backwards just so i could roll it in the garage

GDG · Post by **GDG** » December 17, 2007, 7:11 pm

g&g, I think we are locked into late model wheels or mags due to backspacing issues. Those rotors and calipers are BIG!! I'm thinking of Moon discs on 16"ers or a set of 17" Bullit mags. I have a pair of CVPI seven hole wheels on the frt of mine now, I'm not sure I want to use them but they are kind of stealth looking. Keep searching you might come up with a way around your problem.
Doug

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 17, 2007, 10:13 pm

GDG: I had pretty much decided to ditch the CV Crossmember idea and just put disk brakes and a No Limit PS Rack & Pinion setup under the 64...then I ran across a guy on e-bay who sells Mustang "dealer take off" 16 and 17" alloy wheel and Pirelli tire sets for about $500. Good looking wheels, sort of tweaked my interest in going that direction.

I'm putting everything on hold until after the first of the year.

MrEvil · Post by **MrEvil** » December 18, 2007, 2:57 am

Is the CV's front track that much wider than the stock axle on our trucks? I'd like to use some wheels with a more normal offset not that crazy flat one the newer CV's have.

I'm sold on doing the CV swap too, I've been browsing government equipment auctions all over Texas and when I'm ready I can pick up a wrecked CVPI with a good front-end for $500. I reckon that buying the whole car at government auction will be cheaper than pick'n'pull.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 18, 2007, 9:20 am

MrEvil wrote: I reckon that buying the whole car at government auction will be cheaper than pick'n'pull.

The other advantage if buying a whole car (as I understand it) is you more easily get all the pieces you need (i.e. tubes to keep the frame from collapsing, etc) much easier than at the pick-a-part. The "regular" yards here are selling the CV crossmember for as high as $800. For some reason there are not a lot of 03+ CV's in this market...which I think is strange since all the law enforcement uses them and this is a huge market for "civilian" CV, Grand Marquis and Town Cars. (Rarely saw a civilian driving one when I lived out west).

Post by **Greg D** » December 18, 2007, 9:40 am

Grits, sometimes current CVs can be scarce because the law enforcement uses them. Over in Council Bluffs they "sell" all their wrecks to 1 body shop, the one that does all their body work. He is not allowed to sell parts off of the cars, the owner is an acquaintance of mine. Some localities just auction them off, they are more common in those areas. If you are willing to travel a little you may be able to get the crossmember cheaper enough to warrant the trip.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 18, 2007, 10:01 am

Greg: I understand that, but was just curious as to why more "civilian" vehicles are not in the yards since they are so popular in this area (and most of the drivers are 60+ and probably more prone to accidents.)

FYI: We're picking up an auto dealer group as an advertising account so I thought I would have an inside track, but they dropped the Lincoln Mercury franchise and kept Honda and Toyota.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 18, 2007, 10:17 am

Greg D wrote:Over in Council Bluffs they "sell" all their wrecks to 1 body shop, the one that does all their body work. He is not allowed to sell parts off of the cars, the owner is an acquaintance of mine.

Greg. How does this make sense? Why would the guy buy the wrecks, then not have a chance to recover his cash by selling parts? :hm:

Kinda like buying a semiload of fresh eggs and keeping them for yourself..

Methinks the man just didn't want to sell YOU any parts... :lol:

Post by **Greg D** » December 18, 2007, 10:21 am

Gotta figure older drivers drive alot less than the rest of us. Their cars generally last longer plus they usually have pretty good insurance that will repair them right.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » December 18, 2007, 10:30 am

That could be true!

JC: Maybe by "sell" he really means "give". He may pay a $1 in a "GOB"auction to keep it ligit looking.
OR
Maybe he just won't sell to Greg. LOL

Wheel Bolt Pattern on CV

CV front end

Re: CV front end