Chris Windham-Blue lightning rust remover

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Phil
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Chris Windham-Blue lightning rust remover

Post by Phil »

Chris. Will a quart be enough to do the bottom of my Fairlane?
$30 for a gallon + 26 shipping seems really steep

Is this product really worth it? Or should I just POR15 the rust?
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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PFM-64f100
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Re: Chris Windham-Blue lightning rust remover

Post by PFM-64f100 »

Heavyhauler wrote:Chris. Will a quart be enough to do the bottom of my Fairlane?
$30 for a gallon + 26 shipping seems really steep

Is this product really worth it? Or should I just POR15 the rust?


A Quart may not be enough but it will get most of it. A gallon will go a long way. I think it's worth it. I would start with the quart and see how you like the product. Be sure to get the metal prep for afterwards. This keep flash rust from starting. Shipping does seem a bit high at least higher than it's been before. I used to have a demo page with this stuff and will get that back up again on sunday.

Remeber this stuff doesn't do to much to the undercoating execpt turn it white. Also Por 15 mainly covers the rust this kills it then you cover with por or something else. Maybee powered coat the bottom of the car.
64 F100 short bed-style side-460-c6-with side toolbox and Dakota Front Suspension
And a 65 CrewCab

Chris W.

The pickups
65 Crew Cab
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/CrewCab/index.html
64 F100
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1964- ... index.html
The Torino project http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1971- ... eFile.html
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

LOL, I just ordered a gallon yesterday ($50.50 shipped here). Go for the gallon IMHO, what you don't use on your vert you will have left for your Uni.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

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Phil
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Post by Phil »

Greg D wrote:LOL, I just ordered a gallon yesterday ($50.50 shipped here). Go for the gallon IMHO, what you don't use on your vert you will have left for your Uni.


You guys are closer to Cali than me I guess. Shipping is pretty steep.
Unfortunatly I'm short on cash.

Chris I use the POR metal ready and I have some of that for post, rust killing.

The thing is POR fails if the metal isn't rusty. I follow there directions and used their prep stuff and it still peels off even rusty metal 50% of the time
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

HH, dollars are secondary if the stuff really works IMHO. I saw his post on this stuff months ago. I had the $ to order it the other day and it's on it's way here. You have some nice cars, spring the $ few extra and do it well. I've seen pics of your fairlanes you really already know this. Shipping is likely about the same for a quart, save the per oz cost and get the gallon. Pizza Hut can wait one more week, the wife will understand when she drives it the first time with the lid down.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
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greythorn3
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Post by greythorn3 »

silver bullet, blue somthing, por 15.. hell i think they would all do wha tyou need done.. go with the one you can get local or cheapest shipping.

Ray
wheelordie.com my alaska offroad website
Phil
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Post by Phil »

greythorn3 wrote:silver bullet, blue somthing, por 15.. hell i think they would all do wha tyou need done.. go with the one you can get local or cheapest shipping.

Ray


Ive tried a few, POR, ZEP, Naval jelly etc.
From Chris' pics this stuff looks 172534x better.
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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PFM-64f100
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Post by PFM-64f100 »

Heavyhauler wrote:
greythorn3 wrote:silver bullet, blue somthing, por 15.. hell i think they would all do wha tyou need done.. go with the one you can get local or cheapest shipping.

Ray


Ive tried a few, POR, ZEP, Naval jelly etc.
From Chris' pics this stuff looks 172534x better.


I also have tried bunches of stuff and I concur that this stuff is 172534x better.
64 F100 short bed-style side-460-c6-with side toolbox and Dakota Front Suspension
And a 65 CrewCab

Chris W.

The pickups
65 Crew Cab
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/CrewCab/index.html
64 F100
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1964- ... index.html
The Torino project http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1971- ... eFile.html
Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Is there a website for this stuff? I tried looking for it here but dont seem to see it. I may take a look at it even though I am a huge POR15 fan. :D
Phil
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Post by Phil »

Someday I'll get another slick :(
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Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Thanks, I have been there before now that I looked at the link... How many people here have actually used it and believe it to be better (along with their coating for frames, floors, etc) than POR15. I am a HUGE believer in POR15 (when applied correctly) but wouldn't mind trying something different.
Phil
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Post by Phil »

I've had some real bad experiences with properly applied POR15.
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

i remain happy with the POR 15 on my truck, but would be willing to try something else. the $ is not the issue its the result that is important.
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Phil
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Post by Phil »

ICEMAN6166 wrote:i remain happy with the POR 15 on my truck, but would be willing to try something else. the $ is not the issue its the result that is important.


where it works its awesome, where it fails its biblical in proportion.

You'll have to take my word I followed their instructions to the letter.
I am beginning to think the stuff sits on shelves for a long time and may get old.

Unfortunatly I got impatient to start this job so funds don't match my enthusiasm. Guess we'll see what happens. Gotta say even though I am doing the cowl I really don't have the bug to make this one perfect.
Safe and all one color will do.
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Heavy Hauler, I am guessing you must have had issues with POR15 peeling? Reason I say this is because I have too. Not sure why but it happened to me once in a while. I have used POR15 a TON, probably went through 8 gallons of the stuff in about a year or more. One thing I think was the reason is because I put it over an entire interior surface where there was rust and wasn't. It doesn't seem to stick to non rusted surfaces and from what I remember reading, it will only stick well to rusted surfaces and smooth clean metal it wont. If you do put it on clean new metal it will supposedly create rust under it... How much I don't know, I am guessing if it does, just very light surface rust from whatever condensation is in the POR or when you apply it and it air dry's and vents out....
Phil
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Post by Phil »

Shawn F. wrote:Heavy Hauler, I am guessing you must have had issues with POR15 peeling? Reason I say this is because I have too. Not sure why but it happened to me once in a while. I have used POR15 a TON, probably went through 8 gallons of the stuff in about a year or more. One thing I think was the reason is because I put it over an entire interior surface where there was rust and wasn't. It doesn't seem to stick to non rusted surfaces and from what I remember reading, it will only stick well to rusted surfaces and smooth clean metal it wont. If you do put it on clean new metal it will supposedly create rust under it... How much I don't know, I am guessing if it does, just very light surface rust from whatever condensation is in the POR or when you apply it and it air dry's and vents out....


It pretty much never works on clean metal which is why I have misgivings about using the blue lightning. I used it on my heavily pitted roof of my black car. I used all their prep products and meticulously followed the directions since I wanted the car perfect. It went under a vinyl top. When done I had a run on the sailpanel. I went to knife it off with a razor blade and it peeled a strip 3" long leaving the rust exposed.

I stuck the top on and never looked back.

The floor on my 68 was done over rust. I can scratch it off easily with a screwdriver.

On the flip side I did the surface rusted bed in my truck and its tough as nails.

I think its related to the shelf life of the can.

The guys on the Autobody forum love POR15
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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PFM-64f100
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Post by PFM-64f100 »

Here's the web page I put together for this stuff. There link is at the bottom of the page.

http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/bluelighting/Blue_lighting_Rust_remover.html


bluelightning web site
http://bluelightning.zoovy.com/c=RUC3JQmxoIPiRIgpwvVnQ7fS3/
64 F100 short bed-style side-460-c6-with side toolbox and Dakota Front Suspension
And a 65 CrewCab

Chris W.

The pickups
65 Crew Cab
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/CrewCab/index.html
64 F100
http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1964- ... index.html
The Torino project http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/1971- ... eFile.html
Shawn F.
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Joined: August 6, 2006, 4:20 pm
Location: Charlotte, NC

Post by Shawn F. »

Heavy, how long did you let the water or other products dry before putting the POR15 on? Reason I ask is because here is a similar situation with something completely different:
Before you paint a car and it's all prepped and ready, you degrease and clean it with a solvent based pre clean and/or water based pre clean. It is like thinner and to the eye it evaporates quickly. BUT! If you do not give it about 30 minutes or more to dry even though it evaporates and looks dry and you go to paint, you will have problems with either fish eyes, solvent pop or something of that nature.
I know you wash the marine clean off with water and wipe it down, but before you start applying POR15 I would give it about half a day to dry if it's a complete frame or floor. Could be the water is still in the pores of the metal/rust and not allowing the POR15 to stick. I know what you mean though because I have had the same problem more than once and I couldn't figure it out. I thought about it and though that it was either that it was completely clean metal or the water deal I just explained. Next time I use POR15 (which may be this week) I will mess around with it and see what is causing it because I'd really like to know. Sometimes I think that since 2 or 3 coats are so thick that it will chip or peel easy but I may be wrong.
As for the water deal, I think that may be a big part because I know that sometimes I did not wait for it to dry and put it on probably 10 minutes after. Maybe call POR15 and explain to them this problem?
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