Headers Question

ABA · Post by **ABA** » September 26, 2006, 4:23 pm

Most of the headers for a 352 I have looked at say they will work with a automatic column shift but will not work with a automatic floor shift.
What is the difference?

I have a C6 but with a Mustang type floor shfter. Truck was manual shift originally and I'm going to use a B&M shifter instead of that Mustang one.

Any Header advice would be appreicated.

bertha66 · Post by **bertha66** » September 27, 2006, 3:19 pm

With most headers they run down the side of the trans and would hit the shifter if is mounted on the side of the trans. With the B&M, it should be a gable shifter, you should beable to mount it clear of the headers.

ABA · Post by **ABA** » September 27, 2006, 3:47 pm

Looks like I'm going to have to spend a few more dollars and get some headers that work with all transmissions.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... 94840070+0

Really not a bad price considering the headers for my V8 T-Bird cost over 400 bucks. :shock:

ABA · Post by **ABA** » October 24, 2006, 6:36 pm

My Hedman long tube headers came today, WooHoo :lol:

Anybody got any tips on installing these bad boys?
Instructions say to raise the motor as much as possible, can they be istalled without unbolting the motor mounts?

chaser1602 · Post by **chaser1602** » October 26, 2006, 8:17 pm

I put mine in 4 years ago and dont remember having any problems other than getting it up high enuf.I dont think I had to take the starter out either

ABA · Post by **ABA** » October 26, 2006, 8:23 pm

Well guess I will find out for myself this Saturday.
Hope the rain moves on out by then. They calling for 2in of rain here tomorrow :shock:

Will be nice to here the old truck running again and disturb the nieghbors at the same time.

Thanks for reply chaser :wink:

Moose · Post by **Moose** » October 26, 2006, 9:28 pm

I put a set of flowtech headers on my 65, I bought a set of Dynomax headers, but they didn't fit the truck at all! It matters on fittment. Just because they say they fit, doesn't necessarily mean so. Check out the primary tubes (#1 & #2) on each side. Make sure that #1 doesn't run in front of the #2, or they will sit on the engine to frame mount. They need to run behind each other to clear properly.

Moose

ABA · Post by **ABA** » October 28, 2006, 5:50 pm

Well I just installed my first and last set of long tube headers. :shock:

Drivers side was no problem but that passenger side was a @#$%^
I hope that starter last a real long time but with my luck it will die next week. Going to be a real PITA to replace now.

Though that old 352 did sound pretty mean when I fired her up with the open headers.

winr · Post by **winr** » October 29, 2006, 9:33 pm

Thanks for the tip Moose!!

...and ABA, what part of the headers hit what, I was thinking about buying the same type.

I would have liked to have been there when you fired it up.

.........uummm, open headers, music to the ears...

Regards.

Richard.

ABA · Post by **ABA** » October 30, 2006, 4:15 pm

The biggest pain in the butt was getting the starter back on. You have to remove it to get the header in place then reinstall it before you bolt the header down.

There was also a clearence issue with the engine to frame mount too. If the motor mount was 1/8 of an inch thicker it wouldn't have been a problem. 4in side grinder took care of it.

winr · Post by **winr** » October 30, 2006, 4:46 pm

Thanks ABA!!

Regards.

Richard.