Slick 60's

I need to replace the bushings on my 65 F-100. I think I will cut the rivits off the frame bracket. For those that have used this procedure, what do you recommend? Use a smoke wrench on the rivits, grind them off or try a sawzall? My fear of the grinding is breathing all that dust (even with a mask). I don't have a lift so I think I will jack up one side and put a ramp under the front wheel to gain height. I guess at some point a jack would have to be placed under the radius arm or as I used to call them, strut arms. I hope some of you guys that have done this can give me some tips.
thanks,
Jim

Jim I would go ahead and do the I beam anchor bushing also. Its not difficult to drop out the whole assembly an then you don't even have to worry with the rivets.

I thought about that. The PO has already replaced the left side bushing by cutting out the rivits. At least they would be the same. Last time I had it in the air, I couldn't see a problem with the anchor bushings. so that's why the shortcut. Thanks for the reply.
Jim

I've never thought of cutting the rivits as an approach to replacing those bushings, seems like the hard way to me.
I just remove the spring, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the big bolt holding the radius arm to the I-beam, remove the nut at the rear of the radius arm & pull it out.

Reassembly is the reverse of that.

SF, I know you're right. Cutting the rivits is the cowards way out .
You don't even have to take the tire and wheel off.

W/Out a doubt replace them w/a urethane one. Much better preformance, and will last alot longer.

I have to agree w/not undersanding why you would want to remove the mount? Just unbolting is the way to go on changing these bushings.

Thanks, Sounds like good advice.

When I replaced mine, I used a come-along to pull the radius arm forward enough to clean up the shaft stub and ring, paint them and replace the bushing with a urethane unit. That's pretty easy if you are working by yourself.

The beam one can be got at if you lift things up & unbolt from below. I guess you could leave the wheels on if you wanted to. I bought the wrong bushings the first time - the parts book showed oval bushings for '66 but my old ones were round.

Doug

Thanks Doug, What did you hook the come a long on in the front ahead of the axle?

I hooked it to the front of the frame - the 'tow holes' are just the right slot size for the come-along hooks. That way you aren't fighting the coil spring so bad.

If you've got the time, I'd go the unbolting everything route like Insane1 and Slick fan mentioned - you can really clean up the I-beam channel, get some rust block paint up in there and check for worn bolts. Plus its nicer to work around later when you are lubing or working underneath on the engine/tranny.

+40 years of flexing will wear on the tips. I should post a snap of a leaf spring hanger bolt that I took off my parts truck - looked like a melted candle. After seeing that, I don't fool around with re-using suspension hardware<g>

Doug