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Posted: July 31, 2010, 7:27 pm
by Alan Mclennan
How time flies when your doing something else!, I got my steering uni`s and shaft`s, but the spline on the power rack doesn't quite fit the uni joint!. They are both the same dimensions but just don't go together, any idea`s?. I would also like to take this time to mention how much I appreciate one of our fine members for doing a post on having "catapults" at Slick stock instead of rocker cover races!. I will post some pic`s later!, I am all but finished a" 36" Floating Arm Trebuchet", it was like one of those song`s you just can`t get out of your head! bang.gif , so I just had to do it!, Oh and thanks again GregD! :P
Here`s a link to what I am talking about!
http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl= ... s%3Disch:1

Posted: July 31, 2010, 7:36 pm
by jakdad
Awesome Dude!!!!
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted: August 1, 2010, 3:15 am
by Alan Mclennan
So here`s my still not finished Trebuchet ( floating arm style), I call it Greg for short! :lol:
this it at rest, weight at bottom,

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in the cocked position.

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end of stroke,

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close up at top,


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close up at bottom,

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They also refer to them as the Guillotine style Trebuchet!, it could cut fingers off with out any trouble!, it is capable of throwing a golf ball 200 feet plus! and straight!, you golfer`s will know what I mean! :lol:

Posted: August 1, 2010, 5:37 am
by olliesshop
Totally cool !!!

Posted: August 1, 2010, 10:58 am
by MadMaxetc
Some people would say "Why?".....I say "Why Not?!"

Looks like fun. I school we built a potato gun that would fire a red russet about 300yards. We rifled the barrel and everything.

Build

Posted: August 27, 2010, 6:23 pm
by Hillchaser
Hi There, Just wanted to say hi from another Aussie.

Your build is amazing.

I'm desperate to get a slick... I'm an IT guy and have no fabrication skills but I've fallen for the slick disease. I'm currently think about bring a driveable slick over from the US and then gradually paying a local rod shop to gradually work it up as I have funds. I would like to get the running gear and drive train up to speed and run it as a rat rod until I can afford a nice paint job. The other option would be to pay slighlty more and wait for a good deal where someone has already put a lot of money into a build.

Would love to hear your thoughts.

Hillchaser (Vic)

Posted: March 6, 2011, 2:04 am
by Alan Mclennan
Moving right along!, I have been otherwise busy of late!, but back at it I hope!. The last couple of weeks I`ve been doing the exhaust, I`ve gone with the 2 1/2 " Magnaflows and mandrel bends, I wish I could tig weld! so I did it with my Mig!, that's why the photo`s are taken at a distance!
it`s all S/steel
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the pipes are straight back from the headers to the mufflers and a series of bends to go over the rear axle.

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I`ve probably put one too many mounts in but hey!

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I have also done the cooling lines from the tranny forward to in front of the engine, I ran them between the block and the headers, can anyone see a problem with this set up?

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there`s also a change in plans with the body,

Posted: March 6, 2011, 4:44 am
by Max
I was going to run mine along the frame rail but now that I see where your exhaust is, I may do something similar. Just wondering how hot that will get next to those headers.

Did you bend those SS exhaust pipes or buy them pre-bent?

Posted: March 6, 2011, 8:42 am
by MadMaxetc
Looking good Alan.

I am thinking about having my exhaust powder coated. (They have high temp stuff)

Posted: March 6, 2011, 10:18 am
by Haus
I had my factory exhaust logs blasted and ceramic coated. I ran the cooling lines of my c4 down the frame rail. You can always plumb in a temp guage and see if your reaching optimal cooling. I'm thinking of doing the same just to see how bad my 2500 stall converter is heating things up. I may have to add an additional cooler if its too high.

Posted: March 6, 2011, 6:48 pm
by noley99
Very nice. I love the mufflers and think I may go the same route and put turn downs right out of the mufflers.

Posted: March 6, 2011, 8:20 pm
by kstones63
Alan, The 4.6 that I am putting in my truck has the trans lines running beside the block. They are lower and run back behind the starter, close to the block, just lower. Put a good cooler on it with a gauge and if the trans gets to warm, drop em down lower away from the headers.

Kevin

Posted: March 7, 2011, 2:29 am
by Alan Mclennan
Kev, they are about 50mm from the headers!, so I`m hoping there`s enough air between them to not heat them up!, if it does I think I might lag them.

Posted: March 10, 2011, 1:05 am
by Alan Mclennan
Max wrote:I was going to run mine along the frame rail but now that I see where your exhaust is, I may do something similar. Just wondering how hot that will get next to those headers.

Did you bend those SS exhaust pipes or buy them pre-bent?


Max, I bought the bends , I don`t have the gear to bend them myself!, although I did look into it!. The biggest problem I found MiG welding them was that the bends and the straight pipe are of different gauges and a lot of the welds looked like snot! :( , but the grinder fix`s that a bit!

Posted: April 23, 2011, 7:17 pm
by Alan Mclennan
:cry: No one noticed my over sized bonnet Badge!

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Posted: April 23, 2011, 9:49 pm
by Hookedtrout
Looking awesome!!

Posted: April 23, 2011, 11:48 pm
by MadMaxetc
Damn Alan! That is big, so big I didn't even see it!

Posted: April 24, 2011, 8:18 am
by Hookedtrout
[quote="Alan Mclennan"]:cry: No one noticed my over sized bonnet Badge!

That gives me an idea for a picture frame once I get a really good b/w shot of my Uni!! Awesome!

Posted: April 24, 2011, 10:10 am
by Rusty 63
Looked like a grille shell off a lawn tractor to me... now I see it! LOL

Posted: April 24, 2011, 7:16 pm
by Alan Mclennan
Hookedtrout wrote:
Alan Mclennan wrote::cry: No one noticed my over sized bonnet Badge!

That gives me an idea for a picture frame once I get a really good b/w shot of my Uni!! Awesome!



Cory, that`s what it`s meant to be! :D , I`m going to put my SS111 signed T-shirt in it!


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