Ive seen the Toyota swap in a few places on the internet including that article as being for 1948 threw 1960. Is there any difference on a 61-64?

That has got to be the cleanest 223 I've ever seen.

Thanks jakdad, I think I'll try calling them to see what they have. I'm also eying this on craigslist.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/1943225567.html

If it really is in good shape, it might be better to just clean up this engine, throw my manifolds on it, and get back on the road.

come on, I need some good news on this project. The bad news just keeps stacking up.

well its looking like all they sell are chrome rings for this engine and I can only find one set of those available directly from Hastings. This might bring my project to a halt. There are some on eBay but they are ether standard or 30 over. Mine is 20 over so may need to pull the block and have it ...

Well that's good to know. I just spent an hour looking for cast iron rings for a 262 and cant find any anywhere. Any one have any idea who sells them?

Just took a look at the package and all they say is "Heavy Chrome Plate" at the bottom of the package. They look like they are new old stock from the 60's

I did hone the cylinder walls so I guess I'll go ahead and give them a try. Thanks.

I've been reading that cast iron rings are better than chrome if your not having the engine rebored. I ordered a set off ebay that I thought where cast iron but it turns out that the top ring and the oil seal are chrome and second ring is cast iron so I'm trying to decide weather to just throw them ...

Mine use to do the same thing until I rebuilt my carb and adjusted it correctly so there is at least a good chance that will fix it for you too. Mine would also backfire once it finally died.

you could always mount them like this.

Well at least I learned something. Thanks for all the replies R Pope. Can the crank be pulled with the engine still in the truck or is this the point where I finally pull the block out?

So this leads to a possible flaw in the way I'm thinking about these measurements. When you say .007 is actually .014, I'm assuming you mean both sides add up to .014 in relation to the crank diameter. For some reason, I was thinking that .020 under meant you need bearings .020 thicker but that obvi...

I measured the old and new bearings last night. The old ones are .100" and the new ones are .107". I'm assuming that .007 difference would account for wear in the old ones but these are the first engine bearings I've dealt with so I could be wrong about that. I think this weekend I'm going...

This is exactly what is stamped on the bearing

DAB 84
6831 CAP
6-20 B
6-20 DA-49

I'm assuming that means 20 under but its not exactly clear.

I put the cap back in the same way it came out but I'll double check tonight that the locks are in the same spot. I was thinking about it just now ans wondering if having only one new bearing in it might be slightly binding the crank since it would be just a bit wider than the old worn out ones. On ...

I'm trying to replace my main bearings and was able to get one pair replaced but now I cant turn the engine over at all by hand. Before, I was able to turn it by hand pretty easily. Could this be caused by anything other than the bearings being the wrong size?

The rubber seems to be pretty susceptible to oil. Mine where all pretty flat and the one in the picture had completely disintegrated which was causing the engine to tilt to the side and my clutch equalizing bar to not fit correctly.

I think shipping was about $10.

So after all that great advice about just doing the gasket and then getting it running again, I ended up completely ignoring it and pulled the whole thing apart. Main reason was once I got the head off, my neighbor who is an old hot rodder and raced professionally in the 50's finally took an interes...