I strongly considering rebuilding the 240 on my 65 f100, instead of installing a 302 or 351. I have a Warner T18 4 spd tranny. i have found some articles about how they used to drag race this engine in the mid 80s. Been looking at cliffords 6=8 and this looks to be a good option.
Would you go fuel injection like a howell system that uses a throttle body or stay with a holly or carter 390 cfm. I have a howell system on a jeep rebuild i did and love it. I'm looking at headers, intake, head rework, moderate to aggressive cam and 10:1 compression for the rebuild.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
Would you get rid of your old dog, just to get a bigger one? Old V8s are everywhere, sixes aren't as common (or at least I think). A six sounds cool, it's paid for, and probably will be about the same economy. The old man always said if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
1965 F100 "Papaw's Pride"
"So I'm working on a cistern inlet valve and the guy hands me a lock nut wrench! I was like 'What is this, a drainpipe slipknot!'" -Flo
I put a 300 six out of a mid-80's box van in my '65. It had low mileage, the electronic distributor and cost a lot less that a rebuild. I've since put on an offenhauser manifold and ceramic headers. I had some issues with the Holley 390 and am currently running an edelbrock 500 carb. My latest research indicates that a quadrajet from the mid-70's might be a better carb that either of the others. Better mileage and better response from the secondaries. I like the set up overall, but the linkage gets interesting as the manifold mounts the carb 90 degrees from the original and linkage needs to be changed. I also put int he 4 spd manual OD trans out of the same truck to try and improve mileage. I don't need the creeper low from the original 4 spds. The trick set up is supposed to be using the 240 head on a 300 block to improve compression.
I have a 240 in my 66. The po installed Clifford 6=8,headers,Mallory unilite, and a holly 2 barrel carb. I have had the truck for about 4 years. It runs great.The 240 is a great motor.
Engine and tranny are out and there is more antifreeze than oil in the pan and the pistons are 60 over. They also failed the finger nail test on the tops of the cylinder
If you need to sleeve the cylinders, you're probably better off to replace the block. In my area, to sleeve an entire 6cyl is about $900. If 240s are beefy, like Y-Blocks, you should sonic check the cylinder walls to see if you can go bigger. Even if you need a custom set of pistons, it will probably be cheaper than sleeving. For me though it'd probably be a good excuse to upgrade to a 300 because for less than the cost of custom pistons or sleeving, I can buy several 300s.
I agree. get a good 300 short block and rebuild your 240 head. some EFI exhaust manifolds and a Clifford intake and you will have a sweet little build.
It's my understanding that the 240 and 300 are the same block. I have a std/std 300 block crank and rods. I also have the 240 head from a 1970 F100 I scrapped. SO I am going to build it for something....just a bit confused on what!?
Either engine will be great for you. But a 300 will probably be easier to find. You can use your crank and rods in a 300 block and still have a 240. so all you need is a block if your crank is in good shape.
That also is my understanding that the crank and heads are the only difference between the 240 and the 300. we'll wait and see but i'm betting the crank is as worn as the rest of the engine. I had asked the guys at clifford 6=8 about changing to the 300 before i pulled the engine and they reccomended staying with the 240. Even with less horsepower you would get up the rpm curve quicker due to the shorter stroke.
I just scrapped my 240 block that was .060 w/ #5 cylinder cracked. The crank is .010/.010, I still have it and the rods/pistons. Look at the back of the bearing shell(rod and main) it should say the oversize. Even if its .020 under and needing a grind dont be afraid of .030....it will be just fine.
The 240 is a great engine, but I think the 300 will not have to "work" as hard to move the truck as a 240 will. Due to the longer stroke.
