Wiring Gauges and Lights

[Jonas]

I have a 66 Ford F100 Standard Cab, round speedometer. I am in the process of re-wiring the whole truck. I have a question about the 5V Constant Power Source for the Instrument Panel. I know it powers the Temp and Fuel Gauge. Does it power the OIL Light? Does it Power the ALT Light?. All the wire are the same color(Black Green) on these. But I have a diagram that shows it powers the Temp, Fuel, and OIl. I just want to make sure. I know they are exspensive and I do not want to blow it.

Thanks

[ICEMAN6166]

you can see here the black w green stripe wires from the ivr to the gauges/lights

[Jonas]

Thank You for the picture it very helpful. I still have questions.

Black green wires go to both sides of the Constant Voltage Module, That means BLack Green Wires cold be 5 vdc or 12 vdc.

I am pretty sure the temp and fuel gage use the 5vdc. My diagram shows the Oil Light using 5vdc. It shows the ALT Light using 12dcv.

I attached the diagram I have(portion of it)

[ICEMAN6166]

on the factory harness theres male and female clips to match the male/female tabs on the ivr



this is a big truck cluster (no lights) but the terminals on the ivr are the same

[Jonas]

I am using the weathepack connectors for this project. I am going to make a connector so I can unplug the whole dash(with Lights)as an assembly. Thanks for posting the pictures. I am pretty sure I understand how it works bewtween the pictures and the diagram. Oil Light I am not 100% sure of, but I think I am going to wire it as 5 volts, I have an oil pressure gauge too. Worse case I have to switch it to 12 volts. I have a week or so before I hook power up.

Thanks

[Toyz]

Fuel and temp gauges are nominally 5v, as are oil GAUGES, where equipped. Oil and alternator warning LAMPS operate off 12v nominally
Paul

[Jonas]

Thanks, after thinking about it. Makes sense all the bulbs would be 12 volts. My diagram is what really confused me, as it showed the Oil at 5 volts. I'm not sure if there is such a thing as an Electric Oil Gauge. If so maybe that is why it shows the 5 volts, if not, must just be mistake.

[ICEMAN6166]

i agree with Paul
the oil light works on 12v neg ground while the gauges are variable

there is an electric oil gauge its the one in the bottom pic (big truck cluster)

heres the front side of that


the ammeter in this cluster is the type where the wire runs thru the loop on the back

this type oil pressure gauge is also variable and gets hooked to the ivr

[Toyz]

Brian, that last set of pics was helpful to me; I'd never had a chance to look at the full gauge panel to determine if they were factory or aftermarket.
I'm assuming since you mentioned the IVR that they are factory. The reversed lettering positioning had me thinking they were aftermarket.
Are they removable from the bezel individually as a complete assembly, or are they integrated into the panel?
If they are adaptable to the standard sweep panel, might you have any available?
Jonah, the round speedo panels (61/64, possibly others), were available with full gauges as Brian stated, and that appears to be the specific schematic you posted since it also shows the ammeter rather than lamp. I was certain the full gauge assembly continued on the 65/66, but had never found an assembly to verify that. I do know the 66 schematics also show full regulator -controlled gauges,again as Brian posted; I'd just never had a chance to observe them up close and carefully.
Paul

[Jonas]

Gentlemen thanks for the quick answers. I will post of picture of Panel when I get it done. Hopefully can work on it tonight a little. I pulled all the wires out of this truck at least a year ago, just started back on it a couple weeks ago.

FYI on this project. I am about 75% done putting in the new wiring harness. I am using EZ Harness it is pretty nice. I bought some nice terminals that fit the ignition switch connector and the Light Switch Connector (let me reuse the connectors by installing the new terminals). You can purchase the Voltage Regulator pigtail from Auto Zone. I did install a bulkhead connector(weather pack) on the fire wall. Also using Weather Pack connectors for turn signals, tail lights, distributor, Dura Spark 2 Module, Turn Signal switch at column, tail section disconnect at back of truck. They are easy and make a nice sealed connection.

Added a couple pictures of the project.

[SLICKCOLLECTOR]

i have a custom cab wiring harness in my truck and am considering installing the round gauge cluster instead of the custom cab gauge panel. is the only issue the directional indicator lite wiring? thanks.

jim

[ICEMAN6166]

i have a custom cab wiring harness in my truck and am considering installing the round gauge cluster instead of the custom cab gauge panel. is the only issue the directional indicator lite wiring? thanks.

jim

Jim thats not even an issue
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14795

[ICEMAN6166]

Brian, that last set of pics was helpful to me; I'd never had a chance to look at the full gauge panel to determine if they were factory or aftermarket.
I'm assuming since you mentioned the IVR that they are factory. The reversed lettering positioning had me thinking they were aftermarket.
Are they removable from the bezel individually as a complete assembly, or are they integrated into the panel?
If they are adaptable to the standard sweep panel, might you have any available?
Jonah, the round speedo panels (61/64, possibly others), were available with full gauges as Brian stated, and that appears to be the specific schematic you posted since it also shows the ammeter rather than lamp. I was certain the full gauge assembly continued on the 65/66, but had never found an assembly to verify that. I do know the 66 schematics also show full regulator -controlled gauges,again as Brian posted; I'd just never had a chance to observe them up close and carefully.
Paul

Paul
the round plastic gauges are removable and can be installed in either the metal or plastic instrument panels. ford had a separate harness to install them.thers a jumper with an extra tab (piggyback)to hook up to the ivr.a lot of these were dealer installed.

the gauges in the round speedo cluster cannot be taken out and swapped for the lights as the housings are different so you need the whole thing.
in addition there is a gen (61-64) and an alt version (65/66, and up till 69 i think on the N series) and the gauges can also be found on early broncos. the big truck odometers do not have tenths.

[Toyz]

Brian, that's interesting! The 65 CC LB (Spot) was confusing. I bought it with a standard idiot light panel, but noted that it has the piggy-back jumper you mentioned, indicating it was probably originally equipped with gauges (or the panel was swapped and the auxiliary guages left off). I knew there was a jumper harness available for the earlier models and several for the bigger trucks, but to my knowledge, they all had a different configuration than this one.
I used to occasionally have to deal with owners who had replaced the gauges with aftermarket, and tried to utilize the OEM harness; then would enlist me when they were unable to get the aftermarket gauges to read correctly! I never told customers my secret to using the oem harness, but I have a feeling you already know the answer. Since most of these customers made their livings involving wiring, I suspect at least some pulled the panel back out and noted the straight-forward solution.
BTW, IIRC, you can use the gen ammeter with the alt systems; however, not vice versa. Thus Jim should ber OK on his query, regardless of the origin of his round panel if I am correct.
On another note, I also have a Nordskog digital panel compliments of our favorite uncle. I intend to attempt to superimpose the analog gauges over the Nordskog, somewhat reminiscent of the Dakota Digital VHX for the red uni.
Paul

[SLICKCOLLECTOR]

i have several round panels, including one out of an n code truck that previously was drilled for a super sun tach. that is the panel that i am considering using or may change my mind after looking at what i have available to choose from. the truck is an original custom cab and i chose and installed a custom cab harness from several i had to choose from. i try to stay away from anything that has been previously hacked. and i don't feel comfortable with the amp gauge wiring harness on those with the auxiliary gauges. i have several of those as well. i am not an electrician but i have wired a couple of houses and a few barns etc but it is always straight forward. i bought a DIY book 25-30 years ago and it has served me well if i can keep the pages together. i like the idea of an alternator gauge instead of the ampmeter gauge. seems like a potential fire hazzard. i like the idea of taking a round speedometer and having it chrome plated and then drill the respective holes for aftermarket gauges or visa versa. what is that little box on the inner fender on the passenger side that the auxiliary wiring harness for custom cabs runs through. simply a junction box? they seem to always be junk or are after removal. thanks.

jim

jim

[Jonas]

Here is mine. There are 9 wires going to it.
1. Gauge Power (Goes to right side of voltage module, labled IGN) also to ALT Light and Oil Light
2. Instrument Light - Goes to three bulbs, comes from light Switch
3. High Beam Indicator
4. Left Turn Indicator
5. Right Turn Indicator
6. Oil (From Switch to light)
7. ALT From ALT to Switch)
8. Temp- from Sensor to Gauge
9. Fuel - From tank to gauge
(Note 5 vdc from module(left side) goes to Temp and Fuel Gauges)

I set mine up so I can remove the whole panel by dissconnected two connectors and the speedo cable.

[ICEMAN6166]

i have several round panels, including one out of an n code truck that previously was drilled for a super sun tach. that is the panel that i am considering using or may change my mind after looking at what i have available to choose from. the truck is an original custom cab and i chose and installed a custom cab harness from several i had to choose from. i try to stay away from anything that has been previously hacked. and i don't feel comfortable with the amp gauge wiring harness on those with the auxiliary gauges. i have several of those as well. i am not an electrician but i have wired a couple of houses and a few barns etc but it is always straight forward. i bought a DIY book 25-30 years ago and it has served me well if i can keep the pages together. i like the idea of an alternator gauge instead of the ampmeter gauge. seems like a potential fire hazzard. i like the idea of taking a round speedometer and having it chrome plated and then drill the respective holes for aftermarket gauges or visa versa. what is that little box on the inner fender on the passenger side that the auxiliary wiring harness for custom cabs runs through. simply a junction box? they seem to always be junk or are after removal. thanks.

jim

jim

not sure why your worried about the fire hazard i have used those harnesses many times.
the junction box is there for the harness. the wire that normally goes from the alt/gen to the starter relay is instead relocated to the junction and then the wire from there goes to either the ammeter or runs thru the loop on the back of the alt gauge then to the battery side of the relay. its simply an insulated bolt and you can find them new in electric supply at the better auto parts stores.
when i changed my truck from gen to alt i used the factory harness and matching stewart warner ammeter and mechanical oil pressure gauge so i only used the alt part of the harness the rest (for the 12v oil pressure gauge) is still intact but not used.

i too do not like to mess with hacked wiring, not opposed to soldering a new plug end on if needed but if i cant find good stock stuff i will make my own harnesses.

[Jonas]

I soldered all the connections on this. I used the old connectors on the gages. I was going to do it diffrerent but they looked okay. Plus the way it is I can also go back and change the ends. The problems becomes , When do you stop??? I would like to finish this wiring this weekend,. Then move onto installing the door guts.

What are reccomdations for a engine that has set for a couple years, before starting? I was thinking about some Marvel Mystry Oil in all the cylinders and turn over by hand. It is not locked up and does not have over 20,000 miles on a rebuild. (390 FE).

[ICEMAN6166]

What are reccomdations for a engine that has set for a couple years, before starting? I was thinking about some Marvel Mystry Oil in all the cylinders and turn over by hand. It is not locked up and does not have over 20,000 miles on a rebuild. (390 FE).

that is a good idea, and also i would remove the distributor and spin up the oil pump to operating pressure this gets oil to most all the places needed.

[stswartz]

I'm dealing with some of the same issues. Is there a simple way of getting the odometer to 0000.

I'm doning a frame off restoration and would like to get the milage reading back to 0


65 F100