need help on this guys...

[cwindsor]

I picked the roller from a friend of mine... When I got it the ign switch was cut at the harness part...

I found a harness and that is why you see the butt connectors in the picture...


I just lost on this one brother...

[Jonas]

Can you disonnect the wire you have in the run position. Connect the pick wire there. And and try it? At least see if yo get 7-12 volts at the coil in run.

It might happen that you need the pink wire and the current wire connected to run, if the current wire supplies voltage to your ignition module.

[cwindsor]

two questions...

when you say ignition module... are you meaning Ignition switch????

second I ran a jumper wire from the pink wire to the switched wire and the truck didn't even start... (tried this earlier)

Thanks for all the help... I am sure we can get it...

[Jonas]

You are very close there are just a couple wires that needed figure out. I think it is all at the switch

[Jonas]

No I mean what ever replaced the points

[Jonas]

two questions...

when you say ignition module... are you meaning Ignition switch????

second I ran a jumper wire from the pink wire to the switched wire and the truck didn't even start... (tried this earlier)

Was this at the run position? Was there 12volts here?
Thanks for all the help... I am sure we can get it...

OKAY TRY THIS it will tell us soemthing.

If you are getting 12 volts to ignition module in run. Check with meter. You should be able to run a jumper wire to the + side of the coil. See if the truck works normal after you do this.

[cwindsor]

ok let me check give me 5 min

[Jonas]

Forget the Ballast resitor and pink wire. I just google the procomp it is like a GM ignition. I believe you need the full 12 volts.

Which makes it easy. The wire from the run position on the ignition switch needs to go to the positive side of the coil.

[Jonas]

This might help

The key is the soliniod "S" and "I" Terminals

You need to run the Start position of the Ignition switch to the "S" Terminal.

Next "I" Terminal to Plus side of the coil. This will also connect to the plus side of your distributor (Procomp). This will provide power durning start

Next Run position off the ignition switch needs to run directly to the plus side of coil, no ballast/pink wire. This will also connect to + side of procomp.

This will work

[cwindsor]

I just dont get it and I am about to loose my mind...

Now on the switch both switched and non switch shows 12 volts.... (No jumpers connected)

Also the coil get no voltage with the pink wire hooked up and it starts to get warm...

[Toyz]

Yuo've got some wires crossed. You are feeding back from the coil primary to the (s) terminal on the solenoid. Your resistor wire is not feeding the coil once the 12 volt starting boost is removed, thus the engine dies. The wire on the (I) terminal of the solenoid feeds 12v to the coil when starter is engaged. It will actually be less than 12v because of starter draw. I haven't followed your entire post due to other activities, but, return the wires to where you had them originally , then probe the coil + terminal after removing the heavy starter wire from solenoid and with key in start position. You should have ~ 12v. Release switch to run position, you should then see ~7v at coil. If your Distributor requires a full 12v, eliminate the pink wire and replace it with a regular wire from switch to coil +, leave the (I) wire disconnected at the solenoid. You will then have the needed 12v at all times the switch is on run or start.The pink wire probably does not go to the coil currently, but junctions with the wire from the (I) terminal in the harness . Run your new wire to the same point, but make sure the solenoid (I) wire remains disconnected.
Hope this helps,
Paul

[cwindsor]

Do you still use a resistance wire even if you had a distributor and not the point that come in the truck?

[cwindsor]

this is the coil I have...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... ance+wire+


It says the ballast resistor in not need????

[Jonas]

UPDATE:

I beleive in his situation he only wants the start position of the ignition switch to the s terminal on the soliniod. No where else.

"I" terminal does not need to be used

The the run position ignition switch (no Ballast) to plus side of coil. He has a GM style ignition. 12 volts right to module also connected to plus side of coil. I beleive the run position ignition switch is hot in the Run and the start positions.

Right now he is using the start position to power his ignition. I would just runs a new wire. well two new wires.



Or make sure coil is powere from 'I terminal on soliniod. And Run position of ignition switch. COIL SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED "S " terminal of the soliniod.

[Jonas]

Cwin This might be real easy, do not get discouraged.

Try this disconnect the wire from the "I" Terminal on the soliniod. See if the truck starts.

If it does not start. Connect a wire from the run position on the igintion switch to the wire you disconnected from the "I" terminal. No not hook the wire back to the "I" terminal. Do not hook it back up.

This is what Toyz said.

[Toyz]

Yep, and the way to determine that is to test the circuits. You will not be able to "power from (I) terminal" It'll die when released. Sound familiar?
If the Pro-Comp is the One-wire "ready to run" type, you MIGHT get away with your suggestion as to running a single wire. Otherwise, get the wires back to original orientation, then follow Pro-Comp's instructions for installation of the particular model for the particular application. BTW, although I use some ProComp items, it is the least dependable brand you can find. If you have doubts, Google it!

Paul

[Toyz]

If you have a wire getting notably hot, it needs to be corrected , hopefully b4 ruining some expensive parts.
Paul

[Toyz]

Where is what I got....

I have two red wires and a yellow wire going to the switch....
On the starter solenoid I have a brown wire going to it and the signal wire for the start, on the other post is a red wire..

On the coil I have two wire on the Pos side of the coil, one from the factory harness (red with green stripe) and the other goes to the distrib...

Neg side goes to ground...

Pink wire not hooked up...

[Jonas]

Yep, and the way to determine that is to test the circuits. You will not be able to "power from (I) terminal" It'll die when released. Sound familiar?

That is why I told him to connect the run position to the coil also. It would work, not needed but he is getting discouraged.

If the Pro-Comp is the One-wire "ready to run" type, you MIGHT get away with your suggestion as to running a single wire. Otherwise, get the wires back to original orientation, then follow Pro-Comp's instructions for installation of the particular model for the particular application. BTW, although I use some ProComp items, it is the least dependable brand you can find. If you have doubts, Google it!

Paul

[Toyz]

Where is what I got....

I have two red wires and a yellow wire going to the switch....
On the starter solenoid I have a brown wire going to it and the signal wire for the start, on the other post is a red wire..

On the coil I have two wire on the Pos side of the coil, one from the factory harness (red with green stripe) and the other goes to the distrib...

Neg side goes to ground...

Pink wire not hooked up...

Plus side of coil should be ignition voltage. Negative terminal should connect to distributor. That explains pink wire getting hot.
Paul