Is a T5 a T5 a T5?

[charliemccraney]

It seems varied, but on all slicks, it will be at least a tight fit. I do believe mine would work with the bench seat and the right shift handle but others have claimed that the only option for them is to use an S10 tailhousing or notch the seat. I am using bucket seats, though.

I did place the bench seat for a picture for the install. The shifter is in 3rd gear. You can see that with the right handle, it absolutely will work. I understand that the S10 tailhousing introduces other complications which can be resolved, but I'd advise you to see where the "standard" position puts you and then decide if the S10 housing and the additional work might be the better choice.

[unibody madness]

I dont think the shifter will be a problem with buckets. If you look at "steering wheel swap" in the tips section you will see my shifter placement with the s10 tailshaft housing, compared to Charlies pic.
John

[bmcgc]

A far simpler and cheaper solution is a 2.80 rear end.

Ford put tons of 2.80 geared 9in rear ends under big cars and Lincolns.

I can buy a 2.80 geared center section from the P-N-P for $55.

A 1:1 ratio 3rd or 4th gear with a 2.80 rear end yields 2.80.

A .8 OD in 5th gear with a 3.55 rear end yields 2.84.

OD does nothing for your gas mileage unless you are in 5th gear.

I do not tow or haul heavy loads, so a 2.80 rear end is just fine for me.

I do get on the interstate for short 10-40 mile runs. The gas mileage is currently killing me. I get 100-110 miles per tank.

Im planning on a P-N-P trip this weekend, I will let you know how it goes.

[charliemccraney]

The gas mileage is currently killing me. I get 100-110 miles per tank.

Assuming a stock tank, that's ~6mpg. That's not gearing. Something else is going on. Didn't you say it was higher in a previous post?

I keep forgetting, do you have a 9" or something else? I acquired a 3.00 9" center section recently. If you're interested, Id consider a swap if you come across a good 4.10 unit. We could meet at Summit. It's about the same distance for both of us.

[JojoDVM]

I figured mine at about 9mpg and that was mostly screaming down the highway

[Toyz]

In addition to the mentioned differences the fours use a different input shaft from the V8's.
Paul

[charliemccraney]

That's right. The pilot is a little smaller. I think they made a bushing to press into a stock bearing to reduce the size.

The V8 T5 will work perfectly with a stock or stock replacement bushing/bearing for a Y. I don't know about the other engines.

[Toyz]

Longer shaft also. I thought that was the Y block application also
Paul
l

[bmcgc]

My door tag says I have a 3.25, there isnt a axle tag so who know what I have.

It will cost less than $100 to buy and install the 2.80 center section, thats my plan.

I need to drain and replace the fluid anyway, so Im willing to roll the dice.

Im figuring my mileage useing the odo, and its about 10-11 mpg.

I dont have or want a tach so I have no idea what the engine is turning.

[bmcgc]

I think the 300 and the FE have to much torque for a T-5 to live a long and happy life.

[charliemccraney]

Longer shaft also. I thought that was the Y block application also
Paul
l

I don't know how the length of the 4cyl shaft compares. Maybe Tim can comment on this if he sees this. The Mustang V8 shaft is about 3/32" too long for a Y using the stock truck bellhousing and requires that the pilot portion be trimmed a little. Does anyone know how the depth from the crank flange compares between a Y and FE?

[62galxe]

Another choice is the overdrive toploader. Its not a performance tranny but should be fine for a dailt driver. You need to find the cast iorn version.
http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/imposters.htm

[LM14]

I don't think this is a 6cyl or y-block.



I put a custom bent Hurst shifter on it. Just the stick. Tranny was in the truck when I got it but all he changed was tranny and a Wilcap adapter on the stock bell.

http://www.wilcap.com/

He told me it's a stock 1966 352 bell, clutch, t/o bearing, pressure plate and the speedo hooked up (a different driven gear was needed). I repeat, I didn't do the swap. It is a blast to drive. 18mpg at 75 going down the interstate at 2100RPM. I have 3.25 gears. Also clears bucket seats fine. Strongly recommended.

There are different input shaft lengths, shifter locations, mounting angles (Camaro rotates some of theirs 15* or so). You want a post 89 Mustang 5.0 tranny. Get too new and the input shaft is too long. Check on the H.A.M.B., there is a complete listing of all T-5's, tag numbers, ratios, lengths, etc. It's the ultimate T-5 guide.

SPark

[charliemccraney]

The '94 and '95 T5s have a longer input shaft than the earlier units.

I put a custom bent Hurst shifter on it. Just the stick.

Do you mean literally that you told Hurst what shape you want and they made it? I've been wanting a handle that fits me a little better and that may be the thing to do.

[JojoDVM]

I think the rear end change may end up being a pretty viable option...especially since I'm not really looking for performance, just a little better MPG and less RPM at highway speed...

Per the FE forum (which is a pain to read BTW) the guys swapping to a 4 spd top loader and a 2.79 rear from a land yacht were spinning about 2k at 70-75mph... the top gear ratio in both the 3 and 4 spd is 1.00...so I'd end up in the same boat, just lose a little "oomph" getting there...

The hurst shifter is definitely something I need to get tho...PO installed a cheesy I dunno what shifter and its a royal PITA...nothin like not being able to get into the gear you need...or sometimes any gear at all for that matter...I've tweaked the linkage to no end...got it better, buts its just a sloppy poorly made set up

[JojoDVM]

Or I just found a whole rear axle from a 78 pick up with 2.75s for $125...would that be easier to swap?...I've not done any rear end work (giggle), so not sure what I'm in for to swap gears

[Leeroy]

I went through this very thing with the blue slick, however I had an FMX auto. I really wanted an OD for the hwy driving but the cost of changing to manual + additional costs I would have needed with Clutch pedal and hydraulics (RHD slicks have hydraulic clutches) it was a big money. So I went the rear end swap as it was cheap and easy and the LSD needed bearings done anyway.

I had 29" diameter tyres, but changed from a 3.89 to a 3.5. I probably should have gone for 3.25.
70mph went from 3150 to 2850 with the 3.5 and from memory it was 2650 had I gone for 3.25.

I think it will depend on what you want to do with the slick, I didn't have a tow hitch fitted so it wouldn't have been a big deal with a 3.25 but if you are pulling heavy loads it probably will be or you are going to be riding the clutch to get it moving.

To go to all the effort of a trans swap, plus maybe the s10 extension housing, would it be worth considering a TKO500 or a ZF 5 speed from a later f150? Both those transmissions are big money on this side of the pond, but the TKO has a few different shifter positions and I know the ZF looks about right. I guess the ZF would need work as it has a cleveland/windsor integral bell.

JojoDVM I think the guys above were talking about the Toploaded OD tranny which has the 3 speed ratios, but an OD 4th gear.
If you do go down this route, make sure it has the shifter linkages as well because they are unique (reversed 3-4th) for that transmission.

[JojoDVM]

Truck isn't going to haul anything for sure...I have a big Ford Powerstroke that does all the heavy lifting...

The TKO is gonna be $$$ here too...have looked into the ZF, but it too will require an adapter and modification...its really looking like a tranny swap is going to be more money/effort than its worth at this point...never fails...I seem to unwittingly like things that are complicated...lol

[Toyz]

Or I just found a whole rear axle from a 78 pick up with 2.75s for $125...would that be easier to swap?...I've not done any rear end work (giggle), so not sure what I'm in for to swap gears

'78 rear assembly is a little wider; it fits fine but pushes the wheels out a little. The third member can easily be changed into the earlier housing, however. As a kid, I changed one out (and back in) nearly every weekend to keep from running 4.30's all week! Pull the wheels, drain fluid, four axle flange bolts release the axles, move 'em out slightly; remove third member nuts and u-joint u-bolts (mark orientation), slide out assembly, replace gasket, reverse procedure. No setup, all remains intact. It's lots easier than setting up an integral like the 7.5, 8.8.
Paul

[62galxe]

If you just change the third member in the rear end you need to make sure the axle splines are the same. Theres 28 and 31 spline axles.