truck bed repair assistance

[shipwrecked]

Alright, I got the truck bed off the frame the other day and have it standing in the garage (straps are just stabilizing it to ensure it doesn't tip over on me.

I have the forward bulkhead removed as well to get the bottom portion of the sheet metal replaced.

The forward bed brace is completely rotted. And I have some square tubing to replace it. The middle supports aren't bad at all.


Here is the question. Where should I start to repair this? I am not a natural at sheet metal. The bed is a chinese puzzle box of seem welded panels. I have new bed decking and some angle pieces on hand to make it stronger. I have a metal brake at work that I can get access to to help build these panels.

What I thought about doing was welding a brace between the rails to help stabilize the bed sides, and remove the whole floor. Leaving the wheel wells in place(but I could take those out too).

Once I get the decking out of the bed, then weld in my new forward brace tubing. I have some small angle pieces I thought about welding to the bed side panels to hold up the perimeter of the bed decking. The rear piece is solid and I don't want to remove it.


If you were doing this,, what would you do? This is probably going to be the worst part of this whole truck.

BTW, tried out that new HOBART 140. That thing is pretty good for a hobby welder. I am impressed. I practiced a little and did very well even though I tried with the flux core wire. I just took my time and it came out nice.

[foodstick]

I am not sure there is a right answer, most of that will depend on what you want when you are done.
On my 64 the floor was worse, and I had it standing like yours, and even upside down for awhile.
I had to remove what was left of most of the cross braces, and I did use some new steel to replace them like you mention. On that truck I was making a short box a long box and I did some creative floor repair by how I had to slice things and slide them back together. That left me with spare floor material to weld into the 12 places or so in the floor that were thin like lace..

One of my trucks had bad rust all along the front of the floor where it touches the vertical front of the box, I actually cut out some metal then nicely layed a piece of angle iron along that area and welded it in..not factory but strong and it looks ok. The other advantage to it was that the low part of the floor channels now allowed water to roll out the front of the box under the crossed angle. This way water couldn't be trapped in there to sit as easily. I am a big fan of good drainage in a rebuild.

I completely understand the desire to replace the entire floor. My guess is that is TOUGH job unless the floor is SO BAD it has to be done. I say that having never done it.. but per speculation.

That being said I wish I could see it come along first hand. Your dedication to your truck seems to equal your dedication to the country..
Thanks for both

[JOSHF100]

shipwrecked, your plan sounds like what I did, including adding extra edge bracing. Here are pictures of my too rusty unibody bed floor repair.

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Good Luck!

Randall

[64 f100]

Since that is a long bed, and those are easier to find in good condition, I suggest just replacing the bed if you can find one close by.. Otherwise, I have no good suggestions on how to replace the floor. I am working on a short bed and cut up a decent floor to get the repair panels I needed. I think it's time someone started making the panels for these trucks. I just don't know where to start that kind of project. Someone already makes the fender wells, but to the best of my knowledge no one makes the bed floor and or front cross brace you need. The most complicated pieces would be the floor and front bed panel. Repairing the front bed panel would not be so hard if, the P/O had bothered to tie down the engine /transmission/rear end they let slide into the front of the bed and stretched the metal. Metal shrinking is an art form and hard to accomplish after the metal has been beaten half to death and deformed beyond reason. AS to being able to help with constructive suggestions, I can only say that the second cross brace in a long bed is basically the same as the first brace. Just lacks the extra parts and hole for the bolts. Perhaps Junkyard Dog (Tom at Flashback ) can help with one of those pieces. Welding rust is a pita, I suggest replacing all you can with good metal. The better job you do now, will mean it will last the rest of your life and not have to be redone while you own it. The only person you really have to satisfy is you. So, you are facing probably the hardest taskmaster in your life, every time you look in the mirror. Just remember, there is nothing that can't be fixed one way or another. Just set your sites where you need to be and try not to be to hard on yourself. Progress is hard to make if you are trying to make the exact right decision every time. Your gonna make mistakes, so get over it and get the job done. It can always be redone later if it bothers you enough. Just make your plan and go with it. You will need spot weld removers. Best I've found have a point in the middle and the cutter is reversible . These come in different sizes for the cutting part. You should predrill a hole for the spot weld cutter. This holds the cutter steady so you don't go wandering all over the metal. Be sure to buy 2 or 3 spot weld cutters so you have extra, available on Evilbay.

Rich

Rich

[shipwrecked]

64 f100, This is a short bed.

The whole forward section rotted away at the seam, and the entire bed deck is warped, holes everywhere and pitted. The strongest parts are around the wheel wells.

I will probably start cutting spot welds once the weather gets warmer. It's 20 inside my unheated garage this week and I can't stand being out there with little heat.
I figured on cutting spot welds, and doing similar to SCBolt.

[bruceandersson]

Dissecting these beds takes a lot of time. I finally found that the best spot weld removal tool is a 5/16" pilot point drill bit. They are cheaper than most spot weld tools and last just as long. For the spot weld between the center section and the sides, I found it much easier and faster to used a 3" grinder to cut out the spot welds as you can't get the right angle to drill them.

[64 f100]

Sorry for calling it a long bed. That being said, long beds are still easier to find and a betters source of parts. Even if rotted out in the front, there is still plenty of bed floor to use for your truck. The second cross brace is pretty much the same as the front with some exceptions. There are some internal pieces to the front brace where the bolt goes to hold the bed to the frame. Someone mentioned he had a bed for sale that had the same bed floor as ours although not the same year. I don't know what authority he has on the subject but it is quite possible he has it right. One advantage of using a fresh floor, it you can cut the old one out without having to be too careful, and get at those spot welds more easily. Would take a lot less time to replace the floor rather than trying to save it. Also saves time in decision making, such as where do I stop when repairing the floor . Randall did a really nice job on his bed repair, although the bed floor is not like the original in the cross section, it is a very nicely done job. A lot depends on what you can do in the way of making your own bed floor, and how much time you have to spend on it. There is a supposedly nice long bed, bed in Sonora CA. for 350$, but getting it to you in time to use would be both costly and time consuming. Also another long bed on the northeast coast, which looked good in the pictures, forgot the price. I'm and add addaholic and used to buy every little trade paper I came across, now I'm on craigslist far more than I should be. Always looking , and even sometimes buying. Recently bought a set of west coast junior mirrors that will fit our trucks for an extremely low price and two NOS turn signal switches for a reasonable price. Beds on the other hand are scarce in good condition, and expensive. One short bed advertised in Bloomington for 2,000$ supposedly good, I would consider a good price considering man hours involved and cost of materials if needed. However, I have not seen the bed. One recently sold on Evilbay for that price. Your bed has the average damage from what I've seen and looks very repairable. Like I said, I spend to much time on Craigslist.

Rich

[JOSHF100]

Looking at the end panel you removed you've got a start on drilling spot welds.. Every one has their way of drilling them.. I like the "Blair" cutter, it does a good job if I predrill the center with an 1/8 bit first. I don't have to go all the way through with the 1/8 bit.

Another thing that helped when drilling the floor to side panel connection was to bend the flanges slightly toward the center of the bed...
Doesn't take much.

It took about 5 hrs to remove the donor floor.

Randall