Slick 50

36truck · Post by **36truck** » January 29, 2009, 12:24 am

Randy now what are you going to do with those heads

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 29, 2009, 2:02 am

36truck wrote:Randy now what are you going to do with those heads

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » January 29, 2009, 8:52 am

VERY Nice pictures nice bottom of Mustang, like to have a garage here but means cutting trees which I don't like to do but maybe this summer , have one here already buttoo many trucks in front of it like the stripper being used gets down to the metal good job :thumright

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » January 29, 2009, 9:21 am

Randy.. so is the Machine shop buying you a new stroker crank? I don't imagine 427 cranks grow on trees... I would be livid

DCarr · Post by **DCarr** » January 29, 2009, 12:02 pm

I agree.

Any reputable machine shop should stand behind their work. At the very least they could find you a 391 T crank (a tiny bit easier to find ) .And then take it somewhere ELSE to have the nose machined to side-oiler specs. I hope they didn't have the nerve to charge you for it. Good score on the 9 heads BTW. Do you have any high-riser heads& intake or a 6-2 edelbrock manifold for an FE? PM please. Thanks, David.

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 29, 2009, 12:37 pm

DCarr wrote:I agree. Any reputable machine shop should stand behind their work. At the very least they could find you a 391 T crank (a tiny bit easier to find ) .And then take it somewhere ELSE to have the nose machined to side-oiler specs. I hope they didn't have the nerve to charge you for it. Good score on the 9 heads BTW. Do you have any high-riser heads& intake or a 6-2 edelbrock manifold for an FE? PM please. Thanks, David.

Post by **Greg D** » January 29, 2009, 12:52 pm

BackyardResto wrote:Maybe a slight curve in the slick build.

Some how these showed up on my doorstep today..

It is a good thing I am on my laptop instead of in your garage. I wouldn't want to have to wipe the drool that is on my puter off of those heads & intakes.

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 29, 2009, 1:09 pm

Johnny Canuck wrote:Randy.. so is the Machine shop buying you a new stroker crank? I don't imagine 427 cranks grow on trees... I would be livid

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 29, 2009, 1:18 pm

[quote="Greg D"]

Post by **Greg D** » January 29, 2009, 1:26 pm

If you haven't already you might try posting those PI heads in the "Parts for Sale" or on forum 460. If I had anything I was gonna run a 385 series in we would be talking, lol.

DCarr · Post by **DCarr** » January 29, 2009, 1:38 pm

Thanks, BR . If you ever run across any more , please PM. A friend in Wyo. needs them-he's got the short block , but no top end. That will pretty much finish his FE collection. Thanks, David.

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 30, 2009, 8:16 pm

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 30, 2009, 9:10 pm

This was rear end rebuild and the addition of a Posi Unit
(tighter version) from Yukon Gear

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 31, 2009, 7:32 pm

Each week

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » January 31, 2009, 8:05 pm

BackyardResto wrote:Still looking into whats involved to turn a later gate into a early gate, appears to be a pretty straight forward process. a bit time consuming but not difficult.

I'm thinking of doing the same.. I guess a person could cut both center panels out and reweld but I am going to try to cut the slick gate "at the bends" and see if it will lay nice into my bump gate. I think if it will work it will be easier and be stronger finished produsct. I just may need remove the bump letters so the panel will lay nice. I also want to look into taking the top of my extra gate and stretching the bottom of my gate to make a tailgate and roll pan all in one..

Here is a sketch I made.. The black is my straight rust free bump gate and the red is the added parts to make a "slick lettered" tailgate, fuel door, and rollpan all in one.

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » January 31, 2009, 10:52 pm

[quote="jwh f-100"][

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » February 1, 2009, 7:40 am

BackyardResto wrote:Interesting,
so if you add to bottom like in your drawing what will happen when you open gate? Or are you planning on hinging it different?

Yes my thought is to move the pivot point down so when the gate is open it will be lower than the floor level. Hopefully it would allow enough space to add a fuel filler between the open gate and the floor. It is all in my head now, LOL. When I get to this point I'll just hold my extra gate in place upside down to see how it lines up "down low".

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » February 1, 2009, 10:45 am

BR, I wish I could help with tranny rebuild advice. I assume you're buying a rebuild manual with that kit?
The only one I've rebuilt successfully has been a 727 Mopar trans. After the initial learning curve of figuring out where everything went, it wasn't too bad. Other than remembering where the valve body BB's go, those old tranny's are actually fairly basic, IMO.
It's the later computer controlled ones that have really kicked my butt...twice.

BackyardRest · Post by **BackyardRest** » February 1, 2009, 2:05 pm

[quote="Slick Fan"]B

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » February 2, 2009, 2:13 am

I rebuilt my C6 last summer. It was incredibly simple when I got down to business. Mind you I was a 21 year old punk. SOLO.

First part of advice, Replace the bearings (bushings). I cant say for yours, but every one of mine were shot. (that is, if you dont want to pull it out again) The bushings took a long time to change, but not too hard. I made some Custom 'Washers' to use with a threaded rod to pull all the bushings in and out. worked wonders. didnt destroy any of them. If you do nick one, use a super fine half round file and it should be fine.

I got the Premium Race kit from Hughes, in hopes that it will put up with my Bullschite for a little longer. seems like a quality kit.

I used the ATSG manual, (Automatic transmission Service Group) industry guide. pretty good info. Not absolutely complete, but pretty good. If you wind up having questions, seek out a GOOD trans supply shop. I got some excellent advice from an oldtimer that knew what he was talking about.... (or the ford manual)

Use Assemblee Goo. It's thick green crap. Kinda sticky, and slippery. All over anything that touches anything. Except the clutches.

oooh, I just remembered, apparently the reverse drum, I think it was, is different for a 1966 C6 (first year). It is basically the same as later ones, but the clutches that come with most kits wont fit on the teeth. Hopefully you DO NOT have that drum. You pretty much cant get clutches for the 66 drum. I had to go dig around in a guy's hoarde of tranny parts from the last 50 years to find one that would work. I had ran out of hope, we had searched the Entire shop, then found it on the last 3 feet of shelf in the place, misplaced, and in a dirty little box... A NOS drum... exactly of the sort I was after. That's the BEST luckiness I've ever been bestowed with...

I dont know why I had a 66 drum... Well, I do. The tranny was a hodgepodge of leftover parts that a guy in Tucson built for me, a 73 housing, 76 valve body, 66 reverse drum, a spring clip pressure ring from one of the other drums was put into the drum to make it hold more clutches, I like that idea, but that may have been what caused the reverse piston thrust washer to dientegrate, due to loss of endplay????

OH, and be careful when you put the valve body back in.... I accidentally wound up with the kickdown not engaged right. It's bound up and doesnt do anything.

good luck. Dont do anything 'rash' and you should be fine! just make sure there's not a handful of leftover parts and you're good.

OH YEAH, there probably WILL BE a handful of leftover Orings.... I have NO IDEA what they are all about. I had that thing torn every piece apart, and found no place for any such things. Maybe meant for same locations, but different models/years used different rings.