Slick 60's

Paul, that should be next on my list before I go about replacing parts, especially since the manual makes mention of it as well. What it doesn't tell you is how to check for that, or "unlock" the engine. Thoughts?

Thoughts, Yeah, I always have some
You can probably attempt to turn it over via the fanbelt; just grab it and pull. If you don't have any success with that , get a breakover and socket, and try to turn via the crankshaft bolt. (Don't get carried away, you could break the bolt or cause internal damage.) If that is not successful, I would remove sparkplugs until I either found a cylinder full of fluid, or make sure there was not any. Then try to turn via the crank bolt again with the plugs out. If that doesn't succeed, it's back to the manual!
When you start attempting to turn the engine, listen for a "Clunk" from the starter area, which would indicate the starter drive had locked into the flywheel teeth, and had disengaged.
If the engine turns successfully, THEN remove the starter and have it tested, after looking carefully at the cable end at the starter terminal.
Let us know!
Paul
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Turn engine backwards a couple of degrees, can probably do it by pulling on fan blade if belt is tight, this will allow starter to disengage from flywheel, then try to start


Johnny

This could result in (further) engine damage if it is in fact "locked up". It only takes a little extra effort to try to turn it a full revolution, and the starter drive will more easily break away when turned in direction of rotation.
Paul

If you turn it forward you will not take pressure off of starter so it can kick out of flywheel


Johnny

Thanks for the enlightenment.
I'll stand by my statement.
By that theory, if you were trying to push a vehicle, and couldn't get it to move, would you just back up a few feet, and try again?

Paul

Paul, you are probably be right. I hadn't though of hydraulic lock or the bendix being stuck. Its kind of hard to trouble shoot on the computer. Some things seem basic and you just forget to ask.

Skip,
Getting OT as usual, but, 50 years of getting my a.. chewed for overlooking details has resulted in some improvement. Having to explain to a customer that his self-diagnosed starter problem now requires a new timing sprocket due to his rolling the engine backwards is not very pleasant!
Paul

I couldn't get the fanbelt to budge as it is super tight. I didn't try the crankshaft bolt because I don't have a large enough socket. When I go that route which direction should I turn when facing the engine from the grillside? I checked out the spark plugs as well but my socket extender isn't large enough to fit the plugs. I take it that removing the plugs will relieve all of the built up compression in the engine. And assuming a cylinder is full of fluid I should go about changing the plugs while I'm at it.

You can imagine this all caused a series of frustrated grunts when I realized I had the incorrect tool sizes for everything! Especially since I was trying to do all of this in 25 degree weather with 35 mph wind gusts. The "funny" thing is I was attempting to move the truck to underground storage when this all started.

You want to "tighten" the bolt. Motor rotation is clockwise when viewed from grill-side (front of engine). Removing the plugs will allow an "escape route" for any fluids. Once they are removed, rotating the engine will expel any additional fluids. If It still won't turn with the plugs out, remove the starter to assure it is not jammed. If it fails to turn after starter removal, it has probably suffered internal damage (assuming liquid was found).
i've got thousands of hand tools, and it still takes an effort on my part to locate tools for these trucks.
If it's any consolation, it's cold here, too, 45 degrees with winds off the bay at 5-10 mph
I don't know how Brian does it; I'd have to hibernate all winter. Come to think of it, that's about what I do now!
Paul

Toyz. I was not looking for a debate. All I know is this will work and removing the pressure on starter will not harm anything as I said a few degrees not try to turn a lot backwards.


Johnny

No debate, just practical experience.
The first incident was a mid -eighties 302, as described above. Obviously, the POS nylon toothed timing sprocket was on the verge of failure already, but having the slack in the chain reversed by a SLIGHT backward movement allowed enough force as the chain tightened, to allow the remaining teeth segments to shear.
The other incident involved one of my personal cars caught in one of Houston's floods. I disconnected my 1000 CCA battery, had the car towed, noted that the timing was nearly lined up for # 1 cylinder, pulled #1 plug and rotated the engine in correct direction just slightly to observe water in the spark plug cavity. I then called my insurance carrier, and had the car towed to a "repair shop" for further analysis. When I arrived at the repair shop my battery was found re-connected, with the timing indicator out of sight, and no other sparkplugs removed! The "technician" stated that "Oh, that's how we do it, just bump the engine until it won't move, roll it back a little, then bump it again. That will remove the water."He was partially correct; it became evident that some water had been replaced by anti-freeze! After a rather vocal discussion with the shop manager and my insurance adjuster, I was paid for the car, and it remains in my garage today.
Was it already damaged? Possibly, but it certainly was not aided by his technique!
'Nuff said; I'm open to any comments, but it will be hard to defend an un-necessary practice. The starter drive manages to dis-engage itself when the engine starts without requiring the engine to reverse itself. If it doesn't, removal is warranted. Even if there were some advantage to rolling it backwards, that would not make it a good practice IMO, and would best be followed by an effort to GENTLY and slowly roll the engine in correct direction to take up any slack in components. That's probably , or so worth.
Wish I could type faster and more accurately,
Paul

I replace the solenoid first- its a cheap part. If that didn't work ,replace starter. Once started get charging cked at autozone. Should be charging 13.6 to 13.8. IF over charging replace the regulator on drivers side of radiator support-its a cheap part. Make should connection is tight or cut off and install new connections. Good luck and great looking 66.TONY