Slick 60's

We did the front hanger flip on a friend's 72 F100 and got a full 5" of drop in his truck. We had to put
12 degrees of shims under the pads to bring the pinion back to where it was.
The frame is looking good.

Kevin

Thanks kstones63... Did he reverse arch and/or remove any leafs from the original stack? What about a different rear shackle to move the spring higher to drop the frame? I am actually expecting to knock the spring pads off and move them to get the right pinion alignment... we shall see next week...

We didn't change anything on the springs on his truck. We only did the front hanger flip. If you plan on moving the spring perches, I would recommend that. 12 degrees of shims was a lot to put under the perches. I think that it is plenty stable that way but moving the perches would be the best way.

Kevin

Randy, that frame looks great! You are right about Por-15, you have to "wear it off" if you get it on your skin. But it is great for coverage on the frame. Can't wait to see the frame with everything re-installed on it. It sounds like you have your rear springs all figured out as far as lowering your truck. I wasn't thinking about the amount of lowering that you were wanting to achieve. If you reverse your hangers you will get about 2 inches of lowering and if you also use 'lowering' shackles, in conjunction, you will get an additional 2 inches (or more) of lowering.

Update to the build:

I picked up the rear leaf springs yesterday after they have been reversed re-arched and many of the original leaf's removed and will install them later today on the flipped front spring mount. This should provide 5+ inches of drop in the rear.

I am dropping off the C4 tranny today for a custom rebuild and upgrade with shift kit and torque converter (to handle the cam I will install in the 302).

I expect to receive my Sid Drapal 3 inch Dropped axle on monday so thatI can install it next week along with the disc brake upgrade.

I am tearing the rear end down tomorrow to replace bearings and seals along with a possible gearing change?

Pictures to follow soon.

Finally got the front and rear Reversed and Re-Arched Leaf Springs installed today onto the cleaned and painted frame. As the pictures will show it came out pretty good I think and is awaiting the Sid Drapal 3 inch Dropped Front Axle with Disc Brake Upgrade installation on Monday or Tuesday and the rebuilt 9 inch rear end installed later in the week and if all goes well it becomes a rolling chassis once again...

Front Reversed Re-Arched Leaf Springs with a single leaf removed. Notice the spring eyelets are now on the bottom of the top main spring which gives it additional drop. I had to teach the spring shop what I wanted but now they are advertising that they can do it....



Rear Reversed Re-Arched Leaf Springs with multiple springs removed. Notice the spring eyelets are now on the bottom of the top main spring which gives it additional drop. I had to teach the spring shop what I wanted but now they are advertising that they can do it....



Front Reversed Re-Arched Leaf Springs Leaf Springs Installed with a single leaf removed and the eyelets reversed to give an expected drop of 2 inches along with the 3 inches for the dropped axle to give an expected overall drop of 5 inches


Rear Reversed Re-Arched Leaf Springs Leaf Springs Installed with front spring mount flipped 180 degrees for added drop in addition to the reversed eyelets and removal of 1 1/2 inches of original leaf springs for an expected overall drop of 5-6 inches


Complete frame with all reversed re-arched springs installed awaiting 3 inch dropped front axle early next week and the rebuilt rear end to be installed to make a rolling, rebuilt and lowered chassis.....

Your not wasting any time....looks great!

Thanks Steve! I am trying to get it rolling again so I can move the chassis around and out from in front of my garage....

My bad... I forgot to mention in my last post that I still had to spray the POR-15 Top Coat Chassis Black on the frame. Even though I had used Semi-gloss POR-15 Rust Preventative Paint for the first coats last week it dried almost shiny and I did not want that look so I did some research and found POR-15 Top Coat Chassis Black and it was a definite Flat Black. I sprayed it this morning and it turned out really good. I am a "happy camper" and ready to move to the front axle install next week and the rear-end rebuild and install.






Close-up of the final coat and one of the rear, front leaf spring mounts I flipped to gain 4 inches of drop. This is the final frame look with POR-15 Rust Preventative as the base coat and POR-15 Top Coat Chassis Black for the final coat.

My Sid Drapal 3 inch Dropped Front Axle arrived today and I managed to get it installed along with the Speedway Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit. All went smooth minus not knowing I had to cut a bump/boss off the disc brake calipers to allow it to bolt onto the caliper mounting back plate. Still have to trim the U-bolt excess and install the steering linkage and plan to do that tomorrow if all goes well.

Update: Like any male I should have read the instructions entirely before installing this simple kit.... From Paragraph 6 of the Speedway included instructions - "On some GM calipers there is bump on the casting located next to the piston bore that may interfere with caliper mounting. In these cases the bump should be ground flush with the casting on the caliper." Oh well I came to the same conclusion as they did so I guess I did ok....

Randy, that frame (and axle) is a thing of beauty! I love the looks of the disc brakes on the straight axle. Sid does phenomenal work. What's next? Hanging the rear axle? I can't wait to see this thing finished.
Steve-

Thanks Steve! I hope to have the rear axle rebuilt and hung this week and all goes well? If not then it will be a week because I have other things to do that will not allow me to work on it as much as I want to. Your Disc Brake Conversion is looking good as well. Saw where you are having to modify your front wheels....

Yeah...it's a pain, but I should have moved the air valve to the 'front' of the wheel when I reversed them. Now I am going to have to have the tires dismounted, weld up the hole and drill a new hole. But that's life...You try to think ahead with this stuff and sometimes you miss something. Oh well, it's not the end of the world. I know what you mean by "other things" that keep us from working on our trucks, but that stuff is important too. Just keep plugging along...it's looking good.

And the build continues.... Here are some pictures of what the Sid Drapal 3 inch Dropped Axle with his 2 inch drop blocks installed looks like on my '64 Slick frame with the Speedway Disc Brake Conversion Kit and the old aluminum 15 x 8 wheels and 255/70 tires. Note I still have to trim the Square U-bolt excess this afternoon and those old wheels are only to allow me to measure - the height of 29 inches is what I want I think at this point. I plan to use the tires as they are brand new (old owner had just put them on) but turn the white letters to the inside on 15 x 8 with 4.5 backspace steel wheels.

Ground Clearance I was shooting for - 5 3/4 inches

That looks great! Keep the pics coming. I really like those disc brakes.

Any updates?

Sorry for no updates but have not worked on the truck since my last post. My son was injured in a Shallow Water Diving Accident and broke his neck at C6. We have been heavily involved in that situation since the evening of the 25th of July down in Florida. I hope to have more to report in the next couple of weeks once we get him settled into rehab.

Sorry to hear that about your son...family is important! The truck can wait (it's not going anywhere)....I hope and pray for the best for your son and his recovery.
Steve-

Hoping for a speedy recovery for your son. We will keep him in our prayers.

Update: Finally was able to find time to work on the 64 Slick again. I tore the 9 inch 28 spline rear end apart and got things cleaned up and inspected. It has a 2.75 gear ratio now but I am changing it to a 3.50 gear ratio this weekend with all new bearings and seals. I chose a 3.50 ratio because I want the performance when it is coupled to the newly rebuilt and mildly hopped-up 289 and freshly rebuilt C4 Tranny with a shift kit and 2,000-2,200 rpm stall convertor. More to follow....