I have the pan off the 292 now.
Almost no crud was on the inside of the valve covers & valley pan. Top side of the heads nice & clean too.
The main goal of this adventure is the gaskets & seals - it leaked. Engine looks real good inside - cam lobes & lifters look great.
Pistons are tight with no ridge aside from a little carbon above the compression rings - no scoring in the walls. Rockers arms have no grooving from the valve tops that I can feel.
I measured the timing chain with a straight edge and pushed it with a screwdriver - about 3/16".
Should I pop a main cap or 2 and take a look at the mains? Or do I just leave well enough alone, I do have a dead line here.
Engine turns smooth and reasonably tight for an old engine.
Heads & valves don't look bad either - I am putting in new valve seals as most of them are cracked.
I am rebuilding the oil pump - might as well for a $18 kit I figure.
Last edited by Greg D on July 5, 2010, 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
greg i can relate to were your at, almost every time i do a reseal i too am plaged by the same questions your asking, and it comes down to were does a fellow stop.....that being said, i usually go back to how the engine ran before and what, like your chain for instance, spec is....did it run good and have good oil psi? if so do the reseal and let it go things will be as before but no leaks.....just my opinion....
last year when i was going to do the same to my 223 i found one bent pushrod . the friend who let me use his shop then convinced me to do a total teardown of the engine. at the time a trip to Iowa was planned for the engine
was running when removed from the truck i took it from.
it had a .040/.010/.010 rebuild tag on it
there was no ridge on the cylinders
all the bearings were new looking
the crank and cam looked great
however we found one piston with a broken mesh(oil control) ring.
i cleaned everything up, installed new rings and timing chain/gears reassembled with the same bearings, ground the valves which did not look bad but had a few spots and resurfaced the seats which were already hardened.
i replaced the bent pushrod with one from a parts engine i have, and also one dented rocker oil tube.
i am glad in the end i took the time to do the extra work as i feel good about what i found as far as condition and replacing the rings and think it will run for a long time before needing any work.
whenever i get it back into the uni
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
Turns out I couldn't sneak the upper rear main seal out without moving the crank anyway. Looking front to back on the caps.
I am not used to this, when I tear into an engine especially on one of my "toys" I don't even bother access this stuff - I am going to build it up anyway.
This is what I have......................
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
Greg, The mains are ready to be replaced. Since you have it this far, I would be in favor of a complete rebuild. Engine looks good and I think you pulled it down at just the right time. Best of luck.
Well if it's ready for a complete go through then I need to return what parts I bought for it and backburner the engine and then buy something used that runs to drop in the 64.
I don't want the 64 dead in the driveway for 6 months while scrounge together enough cash to rebuild it.
Shouldn't be too tough to mod the engine mounts for a different engine.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
The mains especially the top three in the pics are used up! How does the crank feel, the old rule of thumb is if you can hang a fingernail it is too much. Did you do a compression or leakdown test on the engine before you tore it down? It is hard to diagnose from just pics but looks like you might have a potential problem with your heads not being flat (by the carbon buildup between the middle cylinders).
As my dad used to say, somewhere there was a horse that died a painful death from terminal constipation due to missing a key part of its anatomy.
The Uni's 292 runs rough and smokes - it has "issues", lol.
The head and block surfaces are real nice - the black coloration between the center chambers isn't carbon it's a little gasket residue - I wiped the heads with oil so the gasket surface doesn't rust while they sit there. I found no spots where the head gaskets were leaking on this engine.
Ran my fingernail across the journals - smooth.
I am not looking to build a hotrod engine either - just want it to run reliably for a summer or 2 til I can get one done with a bigger cam etc. to drop in later.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
I have done two "gasket jobs" years ago, one for 272 and the other for 292. I checked that the bearing clearances were good with plastigage and used the old bearings. Only 292 took cylinder honing and new rings because of one broken ring. I cleaned everything, lapped valves, put them back together and everything was fine for years. 272 was replaced by 292 which is still on the 62 uni which I sold years ago and is going strong. I borrowed the short block of the 272 to my friend that he could test his efi engine last winter while his block was rebuilt and it still worked well.
So long story short, if everything is measured ok, I would put that engine back together only with new gaskets and with what I know now of y-blocks, maybe change only the cam bearings.
Just checked the heads & block deck (needed to clean them up anyway). Can't get a .002 feeler gauge under the straight edge - that will be good.
It's good thing you mentioned that Obsa, I was thinking about it the other day but over the weekend here I just couldn't remember what the other thing I wanted to check on it was, lol.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
The mains especially the top three in the pics are used up! How does the crank feel, the old rule of thumb is if you can hang a fingernail it is too much. Did you do a compression or leakdown test on the engine before you tore it down? It is hard to diagnose from just pics but looks like you might have a potential problem with your heads not being flat (by the carbon buildup between the middle cylinders).