Slick 60's

After long delays due to traveling and parts I completed a power disc brake pin slide upgrade to a 65 stepside. Here is a shot before I ran the lines. This wheel end setup should be backward compatiple to 1957 or fit everything between 57-72. (same brackets, rotors,calipers) What I found was not surprizing! No instructions or support so I figured a way to do this as a real bolt on and believe the industry missed the boat on this setup. The advantages over the Ford stock setup is a full pin slide caliper, no alignment or swapping of the tie rod and common off the shelf parts (OK, you all know where the pin slide calipers come from). Since this was for someone else I bought new parts and assembled. It stops great and did not have and ill side affects other than stuff flying off the seat. Best part is this whole deal can be pieced together all new for less than 300.00 including the non power dual MC.



I'll post more later if anyone is interested.

Wayne



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Interested, very interested!! Please post more info.

Very nice but I am curious about the "The advantages over the Ford stock setup is a full pin slide caliper" Comment. Are you making a comparison to the stock drums or to Ford sliding calipers? Sliding pin calipers are popular due to easy of use not because it is better. The reality is Ford does not use a pin because it reduces brake life/quality. The Ford sliding caliper mount is much more expensive to make but results in fewer warantee claims and noise complaints. Hawkrod

To use a ford sourced caliper it would need to be investment cast or forged bracket. COST PROHIBITIVE, And specific to each series spindle change.

IT would at least double if not triple the cost of the parts necessary. and everyone would bitch that the part is made in china or india.

Keeping the cost down to acceptable levels and ease of assembly is key. Function is the same and i am 100% sure That no one who installs a kit will call ford with a warranty complaint.

For you or I Tom the ford type calipers are good as we do maintain them with the correct caliper lube on a periodoic basis....Correct?, unlike john q public who doesen't do his own brake jobs and really don't care untill its metal on metal due to a seized caliper.

What Wayne has come up with through trial and error is a universal hobyist one doohickey fits all kit.

Garbz

Garbz wrote:To use a ford sourced caliper it would need to be investment cast or forged bracket. COST PROHIBITIVE, And specific to each series spindle change.

IT would at least double if not triple the cost of the parts necessary. and everyone would bitch that the part is made in china or india.

Keeping the cost down to acceptable levels and ease of assembly is key. Function is the same and i am 100% sure That no one who installs a kit will call ford with a warranty complaint.

For you or I Tom the ford type calipers are good as we do maintain them with the correct caliper lube on a periodoic basis....Correct?, unlike john q public who doesen't do his own brake jobs and really don't care untill its metal on metal due to a seized caliper.

What Wayne has come up with through trial and error is a universal hobyist one doohickey fits all kit.

Garbz

I wasn't suggesting that using a Ford caliper design would be the way to go. I was curious about his comment as it sounded like he thought that the pin style was a better design when in reality it is the cheaper design and has drawbacks. None of the drawbacks are major and most people would never even realize it was a design related issue if they had a problem but I certainly would not want to misinformation spread as fact. I too use GM calipers but not because it is a better design, but because it is easier to use. As you note, a caliper bracket for a sliding caliper would be cost prohibitive. Hawkrod.

Yes

Ease of use.....Less parts and cheaper to construct and maintain for the same stopping result.

The biggest issue with ford calipers is failure to maintain or use the correct grease when installing, not how they work or are manufactured. NOt fords fault.. end user fault.

Garbz

this guy made use of Ford calipers (actually dayton which ford uses) on unimog rear end. would be perfect for my f500 4x4 if i could get one of those . but likely could be adapted to the 42 ford 1.5 ton on there now.

http://www.werewoof.com/beast/brakes/brakes.htm

OK! whats wrong with just putting a set of 79 F100 stub axles on with the disc brakes attached, while your at it dual/power MC and proportioning valve?.Then wheel alignment. I did!.


Alan,

Nothing is wrong with the traditional swap unless your doing it for someone else and need to cover your time investing in traveling to a yard, picking parts, cleaning parts, replacing parts, before you ever reassemble and then align.

Pin Slide would not be better design nessasarly than the OE because they all stop in the end,but the install would be easier because you remove backing plates, install new bracket and calipers and a dual MC with Prop valve and drive. Its nice to have an option out here in slick world.

I am also curious what a swap costs if you replace rotors, calipers to be safe, have it aligned and what your investment is gathering the beams/spindles/etc.

BTW This is all great dialog on this.

Your right! Wayne, and 300.00 for all parts needed . that is cheap, I`d say over here the rotors 150.00 ea,recond calipers 120.00 ea, new MC 280.00, new pads 50.00, bearings 70.00, kingpins 100.00, stub axles from wrecker I paid 120.00 the pair, oxy cut off at the I beam and complete. and I did replace all the above.
You didn't say how much the bracket was or from where you got it.


Alan,

Brackets are 125.00 US from where I got them at abspowerbrakes.

I did my own kit assemble because I could piece it together for less.

WK

Wayne
Could I get a list of the parts for this conversion? I want to make the swap when I start putting my frame back together.
Thanks

You can't use 14" X 1.25" rotors & calipers that come on 78 & 9 F-150 Trailer & Camper specials and still have the 5" on 5.5" bolt pattern, like the smaller diameter OEM set ups do when you go with pin calipers. Of course to each our own. The reason I use Front PDB's in the 1st place was to be able to stop from 120+ Mph, in a straight line, and a shorter distance, safely.
Niether cost or ease of anything, beyond superior braking ability was ever a consideration for me.

Another factor I suppose was there were no adapters or people making them, back in mid 80's when I went to PDB's, after installing the 460. It was qwik and it was hard to stop after making "heart in throat passes". In the beginning it was, Ahh? let's say more thrilling trying to stop straight & smoothly, than actually getting into the 12's or seeing 120 in an F-100.
I made other major suspension & handling mods since then of course. In otherwords straight line racing is a learning curve.

And I learned a larger swept area, bigger calipers & pads, extra meat on bigger rotors are worth way more than any grief OEM slider set ups could ever be. Plus my cost was a freebie and great discovery the 1sttime.

FBp

Nice point Pete! Below is where this conversion makes since for anyone looking for an OPTION.

Lets say I have a nice daily driver and or finished slick from 61-66 and you want a nice upgrade from OE and not send 4,5,6,7,or even 800 bucks to a company that supplies one set of steel plate brackets and no instructions and marks the off the shelf parts (cal,rotors,hardware) up 500%. Your gonna stop better and safer in todays busy bumper to bumper traffic. I even did a PB only conversion to Sincs truck to make it safer and it was still 4 wheel drum.

RacerX

I can provide a list but I did not do it yet.

Stay tune

Here is a backside view. Ignore the oily tire . I did not clean anything yet.



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Wayne,
I am also interested in the list. Looks great. I will go with a dual MC but not convinced I need the discs up here in the sticks but then again accidents can happen anywhere. I still have not even had my front drums off but if my '62 has the "single sided" wheel cylinders that will definatly push me over the fence.

Jason

Please post that parts listing, My 66 has stock drums and the old single coffee can. I have been searching for an economical way to upgrade to discs. $300.00 is an excellent price for bolt on. Everything Ive been seeing is in the $1200.00 range.

Jerry

I did the conventional swap (stock 75 parts) and I spent...

$300 on the brakes. (Lines, hoses, rotors, pads, bearings, and calipers)

$75 on King Pins

$150 on Steering (Axle Bushings, Radous Bushings, Tie Rods, and Drag Link)

$60 on shocks.

My 67 will stop on a dime and rides great!!

Eather this upgrade or the stock one is a good swap...JUST DO A SWAP!

I do not like the drum brakes...but if you must run them, clean and replace what is needed to get them running right!!

I second the vote for seeing the parts list.
I have need for better brakes as well.
I previously converted my '65 Mustang to 4-wheel disc brakes and really like the way it stops!