ouch!!! I don't know too much about electrical. But if the ALT is not supposed to have voltage when the key's off it could be a bad solenoid.

not sure if anyone is still watching but the problem ended up being in the field wire. It had a partial break in it. I had previously tested the continuity and it was fine. I tested it again and it was no good. Field wire replaced, problem solved. Thanks for the info!!

I tried that and it made no difference in the system voltage. Is the voltage at the I terminal voltage regulator supposed to drop to 6 volts when the vehicle is running? (harness connected to regulator)

After a week of chasing ghosts, my 65 f100 slick ended up having a bad ignition switch center post. A new ignition switch was installed and a new problem came to call... :wink: The electrical system is now maxing out at 12.7 volts (alt light stays on). The alternator and voltage regulator were teste...

thanks "jeepbut" for those measurements. I'll cut one to size and see what happens.

Just the stick, I tried measuring the tube (while in the vehicle) and it was next to impossible to get an accurate measurement.

It's a transmission dipstick I'm looking for. I'm not sure if the 65 and 66 are the same. Another forum suggested that any dipstick will work if you notch the full mark on the dipstick adjacent to the transmission pan/case junction. It seems logical.

1965 Ford F100, 352, 3 speed cruise-o-matic I Can't seem to find a dip stick in any catalog or specificiations to create one. Does anyone have any helpful info?

mystery deepens, while attempting to hook up a petronix system, I noticed that the wire going to the coil was not pink but some other color. A voltage test revealed that the coil was already being supplied with 12 volts. Perhaps the coil has suffered some damage. The truck seems to run OK.

1965 Ford f100 with cruise-o-matic 3 speed transmission.

It died at the junk yard, so I wiggled wires, the problem suddenly revealed..... The fire wall wire connector had gotten corroded (8 or so wires in a rubber socket) -three seconds, a wire brush, and back in business. Now for a new radiator, horn, bezel, paint, steering wheel, neutral safety switch, ...

It turns out that this electrical problem has just corrected itself after sitting for a day. This is an extremely dangerous condition. Now the problem cannot be tracked down and will likely rear up again when the vehicle is furthest from home. (likely a bad ground)

thanks for that info about the resistor wire. I'll just replace that and see what happens. Strange how it would affect the entire ignition system.

thanks, I figured it has to be something simple.

That's the odd thing, the wire from the solenoid, when disconnected from the switch shows 12v. When I connect it to the ignition switch the voltage disappears at its terminal. The truck was running fine until last night. I'll check the starter cable for grounds.

f100 ran great for a week after sitting for 10+ years. However, after I started it and attempted to turn the lights on, it died (no lights, anything). There is power up to the ignition switch power wire. But when this wire is connected to the ignition switch the voltage drops to zero. Is this an ind...

all these people including the 4'9" person who can't make a left turn, used to be called "sunday drivers". I hate leaving the house anymore for risk of denting my 65 f100. Our society is hell bent on rewarding amateurism at any cost.

I'm not giving up on metal. Even when the gas runs out, there's always electricity. Even if it means making fat american kids run on treadmills to generate it. How hard can it be to convert a F-100 to run on batteries.

The only reason I ask is that the dip stick is missing, and I don't know how long until I find the correct one. (The torque converter drain plug takes about 300 ft lbs of torque to loosen it.) thanks for the info!!

Anyone know what the fluid capacity of a cruise-o-matic transmission w/, w/o torque converter. Transmission is in a 1965 F100, 352 v-8