por 15 questions

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » August 13, 2009, 8:45 pm

first, they have two blacks. semi gloss (i know what that is) and just "black". anyone know if the black is gloss, or flat?
second, on a frame, will soap and water work to clean it sufficiently, or do i need to buy all the other crap they are selling? it is rusty, but not greasy or coated in road dirt. i already have all the scale off.
third, how far does a quart go?

Post by **Greg D** » August 13, 2009, 9:01 pm

Pretty sure the "Black" is the gloss Chris, that's what they told me at the paint shop when I picked mine up. A quart is supposed to go pretty far if you use their reducer, they say you can spray it without but you get more orange peel. I was also told it will stick well to etched metal - use metal prep, I know it doesn't stick well to a smooth finish clean metal. I know that these coatings require a real clean surface, anything that gets everything off and leaves no residue should work. Purple Power may work too as long as it cleaned back off well. Their Marine Clean is pretty pricey.
Here are their directions (PDF) for "People who don't read directions." should suit us perfectly, LOL.

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/no%2 ... ctions.pdf

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » August 13, 2009, 9:03 pm

i would think anything water based would rinse well. i will look into it.
i wasn't planning on spraying it. just brush it on.

Post by **Greg D** » August 13, 2009, 9:11 pm

Here is their FAQ.

http://www.por15.com/faq.asp

This is info on their "Metal Ready" - sounds like alot of other rust converters to me though.

WHAT IS THE 'PROPER PREPARATION'?
We make a product called 'Metal-Ready'. It's a rust remover that leaves a zinc phosphate coating on base metal, the perfect preprimer for POR-15. NOTE: New steel is coated with a protective oil finish at the mill. This finish must be removed before using POR-15 or Metal-Ready. Clean metal first with POR-15 Marine-Clean, then rinse with water and dry.

Anthony · Post by **Anthony** » August 13, 2009, 9:33 pm

ezernut, I used chassis coat on my frame. I bought a gallon of the "paint" and cleaned my frame with wire brushes and a pressure washer. I left no smooth surfaces so that it would adhere. When all was said and done, I just had enough to put a heavy coat on the entire frame and rear ends. It would have went further if it was sprayed.... Anthony

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Total Gearhead · Post by **Total Gearhead** » August 13, 2009, 10:58 pm

Use the metal prep and follow the directions to a T. After its all painted spray it down with water. It will harden like a rock!

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » August 13, 2009, 11:15 pm

I painted it with a brush directly on to a sandblasted frame and it sticks like baby poo to a blanket. I used the frame as an anvil to straighten nails and never even scratched the stuff. If though, you aren't doing that, follow the directions like Horse says.

DON'T BREATHE THE FUMES THEY ARE CYANIDE

is that clear enough?

and unless it is topcoated, regardless of whether it's glossy or semigloss now, it will be flat grey once it's in the sun a while.

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » August 13, 2009, 11:37 pm

jeez. i just don't want to spend 200$ to seal the frame. but it's looking like i will have to spend that to do it right.

Total Gearhead · Post by **Total Gearhead** » August 14, 2009, 3:47 am

Use ZERO Rust instead. Same stuff different name. Last gallon I got was like $80 with the metal prep and shipping. And if you want to paint over it spray some primer over it while it's still wet because after it drys nothing will stick to it!

Phil · Post by **Phil** » August 15, 2009, 8:14 am

Ive had mixed results with POR

My best results are on my truck bed.
I just cleaned it all up with detergent and water with a broom and let it sun dry and applied

The worst was where I used the Marine clean and metal ready on my Torino's rusty roof. It could be peeled with an air nozzle.
I asked a shop that uses it about it and he felt the metal ready was dissimilar and had its own rust inhibitor (the zinc coat). It killed adhesion

It won't stick at all to clean metal so don't try.

Ive used it in many more things and again, had mixed results with adhesion.

I painted a rusty coal shovel I use all the time.
That thing is still nice and black

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » August 15, 2009, 9:32 am

You are still heating with coal Phil? I live in what historically was a coal mining district, you can still see the coal seams on the river banks in a lot of places, but I would not have a clue where to get home heating coal.

Total Gearhead · Post by **Total Gearhead** » August 15, 2009, 1:09 pm

Total Gearhead wrote:Use the metal prep and follow the directions to a T. After its all painted spray it down with water. It will harden like a rock!

I can't say this enough! Follow the manufacturers instruction 100% OR YOU WILL NOT GET GOOD RESULTS. This stuff has been around a long time now. It works but only if you apply it properly. I've heard of a lot of bad results with these products and it always goes back to how it was applied. There use to be warnings on their site letting people know this before they purchased the product. I'm not pointing fingers or anything like that I'm just trying to get the point across.

Phil · Post by **Phil** » August 15, 2009, 1:19 pm

Total Gearhead wrote:
Total Gearhead wrote:Use the metal prep and follow the directions to a T. After its all painted spray it down with water. It will harden like a rock!
I can't say this enough! Follow the manufacturers instruction 100% OR YOU WILL NOT GET GOOD RESULTS. This stuff has been around a long time now. It works but only if you apply it properly. I've heard of a lot of bad results with these products and it always goes back to how it was applied. There use to be warnings on their site letting people know this before they purchased the product. I'm not pointing fingers or anything like that I'm just trying to get the point across.

Sorry man, I find its a crapshoot.
And I did follow the directions to a T.
I've used it about 15 times on all kinds of stuff. When it fails its horrific.

As far as the coal shovel goes, No coal heat but I need it for all the damn oildry I use

Total Gearhead · Post by **Total Gearhead** » August 15, 2009, 2:33 pm

Another thing I forgot to add.... After you open the can it has a short shelf life. It must be used within a week or two. I found after 2 weeks it is no good. I have used 5 gallons of por 15 and 20+ gallons of zero rust. I've never had it peal off. Unless is was used 2 weeks or more after being opened. And if you dont use it up in a day put it in the fridge to help it keep longer.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » August 15, 2009, 2:57 pm

Yep i kept mine I a plastic bag, in my beer fridge ,and it was good for a few months

Truckero · Post by **Truckero** » August 20, 2009, 2:15 am

interesting

My1stSlick · Post by **My1stSlick** » August 20, 2009, 11:36 am

wow good to know. I bought a kit from POR a little while ago that I will be using on a gas tank for my 1993 Eagle Talon and it a few other parts. I've always heard it was great stuff. Sounds like I outta get real familiar with thoe instructions!

Thunderboy · Post by **Thunderboy** » August 20, 2009, 11:51 am

I bought two quarts of POR 15 Semi gloss black and brushed it on a freshly-sandblasted frame, as per the instructions of the POR 15 rep. I first used an air nozzle to blow out residual sand, then I brushed on the entire frame and I-beams (not the rear axle housing, though) with a single, fairly thick coat. I did it outside in an open carport in mild weather. I had about a half cup left over after using only one quart. It adheres very well, and doesn't scratch or mar easily. I was told I didn't need anything else, as long as I keep the surface out of the sunlight. Still looks great after about 7 months.