Roof line seam on my 66
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Brian Taylor
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- Location: Dallas , Texas
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Roof line seam on my 66
The roof line seam is not close to being even. Are all the trucks seam line that way?
I have been spending the last few days filling in and smoothing over to eliminating the line all together, it is a b...pain to get in and clean that all out of the seam sealer. But this has given the roof lines a much smoother look that even my neighbor said he likes the way the back sways over and back to the window, and he is a Chevy guy.
I need to document all this with photos as I work my way down the truck. I think smoothing the door frames and step wells will be many days of hand sanding.
I have been spending the last few days filling in and smoothing over to eliminating the line all together, it is a b...pain to get in and clean that all out of the seam sealer. But this has given the roof lines a much smoother look that even my neighbor said he likes the way the back sways over and back to the window, and he is a Chevy guy.
I need to document all this with photos as I work my way down the truck. I think smoothing the door frames and step wells will be many days of hand sanding.
1966 Ford F-100 LWB 300
Brian, I left mine alone... the assembly line guys must have come back from lunch drunk on a Friday afternoon and installed mine.
Anyway, did you weld the seam before you started smoothing? I believe the filler will crack over time because the roof is just spot welded on the inside flange to the rest of the cab.
I've seen this done along with getting rid of the gutters and it's cool.
Anyway, did you weld the seam before you started smoothing? I believe the filler will crack over time because the roof is just spot welded on the inside flange to the rest of the cab.
I've seen this done along with getting rid of the gutters and it's cool.
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Brian Taylor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: August 18, 2009, 3:52 pm
- Location: Dallas , Texas
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I cleaned out all the old sealer then clean and sanded all the metal. Welded and then used short strand to smooth it out. I sill have a lot of work there before it is paintable. I have spent about 2 weeks just on the roof area and have not started down the pillars yet. I will havethe cab top in primer by the end of the month. Then I will start on the hood which I have been doing hammer and dolley work on in my spare time, I have to see it all the time when I drive so it will have to be just right.
1966 Ford F-100 LWB 300
I always weld seams before filling too - eliminates any flex. I had a spot on the passenger side where the roof cap hung over the pillar about 1/8, I cut up under the the over hang and massaged it in with a hammer & dolly and then welded it up.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
pie cuts up into a bad corner can give you a better chance of shrinking an overhang / bad lap to fit. it will make for more welding to close the cuts, but you'll get a much more symmetrical final look overall if you've got some serious misalignments.
good luck!
good luck!
66 F100 longbed, 240cid all in a line, rowing thru 3-on-the-tree
You must weld the seams before filling or you will have cracks!! I filled all the seams on my 66,roof,bed sides,taillight,smoothed the tailgate,removed all emblems,gas tank filler,filled front fender opening,bed pockets,roll pan on rear,reversed the tailgate latch to inside.Used allot of wire!!! It has been over 10 years and still looks decent. Merle
1966 F-100 "Grabber Blue" Pro St. [ 99 to 44/100% pure recycled FORD ]
You must weld the seams before filling or you will have cracks!! I filled all the seams on my 66,roof,bed sides,taillight,smoothed the tailgate,removed all emblems,gas tank filler,filled front fender opening,bed pockets,roll pan on rear,reversed the tailgate latch to inside.Used allot of wire!!! It has been over 10 years and still looks decent. Merle
1966 F-100 "Grabber Blue" Pro St. [ 99 to 44/100% pure recycled FORD ]
- slickmainer
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ICEMAN6166
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theres a lot of places that are less than a stellar fit on pretty much all of the slicks i have ever seen.
seems a lot of the spot welds in different places are eaily seen that you would not on new trucks.
particularly irritating to me is the spot welds i can see from the outside on my uni and fridge beds. i know why i can see them, because over 50 years separation has occured between the panels and pulled at the welds. not sure what can really be done there other than some grinding/filler as i am not going to remove the wheelwells for that.
never noticed stuff like that in cars i have had from the 60s.
wonder if thats because they were produced as work trucks not cars?
seems a lot of the spot welds in different places are eaily seen that you would not on new trucks.
particularly irritating to me is the spot welds i can see from the outside on my uni and fridge beds. i know why i can see them, because over 50 years separation has occured between the panels and pulled at the welds. not sure what can really be done there other than some grinding/filler as i am not going to remove the wheelwells for that.
never noticed stuff like that in cars i have had from the 60s.
wonder if thats because they were produced as work trucks not cars?
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
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Brian Taylor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: August 18, 2009, 3:52 pm
- Location: Dallas , Texas
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