Door Anti-Rattler and Vent Rubber Restoration

[Von Dud]

Just completed restoring both doors on my 66 F100.

The gents at http://www.Dennis-Carpenter.com published a 2 page how-to in their recent 57-66 catalog (2008 version with red Slick on the cover). though i found this helpful, and hope you will too, there are a few parts of the process i'd like to point out and amend.

Page 1 - property of Dennis Carpenter:




Suggested edit to Step 7: make sure your vent window is in the closed position after removing the footer screws in Step 6. There is a cam shaped 'stop' on the bottom pivot point of the vent window. If the window is closed, you should be able to extract the window without damaging paint and/or springing the sheet metal gap below the window. A closed vent window minimizes the cam's dimension for extraction.


Page 2 - property of Dennis Carpenter:



Suggested edit related to Steps 11 and 16: I suggest loosely attaching the vent window assembly (with it's rubber in place) during Step 11. Wait to pull the rubber cord until Step 17. If the division bar remains loosely attached, prior to installation of the vent assembly (Step 16) - you are liable to scratch paint with the tabs on the leading edge of the vent window frame. The twist and insert process for the vent assembly gets pretty tricky with the division bar in place.

You just went through all that trouble, no sense in scratching things up along the way. Good luck!


If you're working through this project, now would be a good time to get that Dynamat in your doors. What. A. Difference.
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[Alan Mclennan]

Nice post vondud!, I particularly like tip #10 how simple is that!

[Effie]

Since there is already a thread on this and DC has their write up, I just wanted to add my album of pics as I removed my door guts last week.

All pics with captions are here: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/17895/69956

[DanH]

I just installed the "super kit" from Dennis Carpenter this weekend. Their two page step by step misses quite a few steps. Like you have to drill out the rivets/brads on the division bars and reuse all the brackets. They should tell you that you'll need a brad spreader or whatever it's called. And, they should include at least a couple extra brads for when you mess them up. How much would that cost? But these little things aren't why I am posting a reply. I need someone's help regarding how to bend the straight anti-rattler stick that comes from Carpenter. You can see in the how to in the DC catalog that it says use the window as your form and bend the stick around it. Did that and when we did, the little chrome edges of the stick bent and kinked. We got it in the truck, but it looks terrible. I need some help before we start on the driver side door. Is there a trick I'm missing? Does anyone sell a prebent stick. Help!

[Von Dud]

hey Dan -
I did not find any vendors who sourced a "pre-bent stick" - all anti-rattle stock was straight, to ease shipping. When I did my doors, using the "glass in the channel" trick per above, I had one channel that went well and one channel that went 'fair'. A learning curve problem. Wish it came out better.

Think of the channel bend like you would a brake line - you are stretching and pulling the channel as it comes around the bend. You are only keeping the channel stationary at one end so that it can stretch around the corner as you pull and bend. It's an eight hands sort of job, but if you go gentle you should have good luck. If you barely begin to see a kink starting (the channel will start to flare open a bit) - slow down, regroup, and try to add another set of eight hands to the project.

Good luck!

[ICEMAN6166]

that is interesting.

i bought the set from my uni from flashback f100s and have not installed it yet but going now to look at the bar and see about the brackets.

the strip is also straight, not sure what gives on the kinking but i took an almost new set out of a parts truck and used on my 66 4x4 it was not kinked so there must be a trick? maybe stretching as you bend?
guess i will find out when i do the doors.

[ICEMAN6166]

i looked at the division bars and they have the brackets on them.

[Alan Mclennan]

Brian, look at item 10 on the DC install pages posted by Von dud !

[Effie]

I didn't have to drill out or whatever with any brads or anything. It was all bolt in stuff. *shrug*

And yeah, there's a learning curve on forming the window run stuff. My passenger side is kinked, the driver's side is much better.

[slickmainer]

looks like a headache. All my window parts are completely rusted, another day another dollar- or 200

[ABA]

I don't remember any major issues when I did mine even with the strip. I just pushed it in the door frame and it was good.

A couple of the felt strip clips don't want to stay in place. Holes may be over sized due to some rust.

[blackagatha]

and to think I did that job all by myself, when I was 15..... With NO FANCY INSTRUCTIONS!

It truly is a wonder all the crap didnt wind up mangled in the dumpster!!!!

The channel on the passenger side turned out perfect, after a trial run on the driver that is not quite as beautiful, but ok....





When pulling the glass only(for welding crack on window sill), the job becomes tricky..... the division bar Really gets in the way! lol.... I didnt think it was gonna go back in.....

[macgiobuin]

I did both my anti-rattle installs. Makes a HUGE difference! I keep hearing OTHER noises I wasn't able to hear before. I used LMC Truck parts and had no problems. This thread was VERY helpful....thanks, again, guys!!!