leaf spring removal problems
leaf spring removal problems
Seems easy enough. Right? trying to replace the 45 year old rear leaf spring bushings. I got all six nuts off with not problem last week . Soaked every thing for a week. Had a friend come over today and the bolts will just not come out. We tryed prying and hammering. Bolts spin,but wont back out...may be rusted to sleeves...not sure
I'm not gonna use a torch...me and a torch, nothing good can come of that....
Any tips or anything I'm missing here?
I'm not gonna use a torch...me and a torch, nothing good can come of that....
Any tips or anything I'm missing here?
thanks truckster..question
I will get hold of a sawzall,but how did you do it? I cnat seem to even get a gap between the bolthead and the leaf to get blade in there...of did you do it another way I'm not thinking about?
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ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

likely they are rusted to the center sleeves and the rubbers are loose from the outer sleeves.
if you dont like the torch then you must carefully cut between the brackets and the spring eyes
if you dont like the torch then you must carefully cut between the brackets and the spring eyes
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Cosmo. First, have you removed the rear end?
Do you have the springs "unloaded".
By that I mean do you have the frame jacked up so there is some slack in the hangers.
Even with the rear end still attached to the springs, you can do the following. Its easier without the rear end but what I suggest is:
1. Drop the front of the springs down. Remove the bolts from the front.
2. Raise the frame so the spring eye clears and drops down and you have some room to pull the rear end and springs forward - that will let you access the spring hangers. They are the two flat pieces of metal that connect the spring eye to the frame mount.
3. At this point, if you can't drive the bolts out of the spring eye or the spring mount, cut the two flat pieces with a right angle grinder or a fire wrench.
4. Once you get free access to the stuck bolts and they don't have any pressure on them, they will come out a lot easier.
A new spring hanger kit is available at Carpenter and others complete with the bushings, hangers and bolts for around $20.
U@ss
Do you have the springs "unloaded".
By that I mean do you have the frame jacked up so there is some slack in the hangers.
Even with the rear end still attached to the springs, you can do the following. Its easier without the rear end but what I suggest is:
1. Drop the front of the springs down. Remove the bolts from the front.
2. Raise the frame so the spring eye clears and drops down and you have some room to pull the rear end and springs forward - that will let you access the spring hangers. They are the two flat pieces of metal that connect the spring eye to the frame mount.
3. At this point, if you can't drive the bolts out of the spring eye or the spring mount, cut the two flat pieces with a right angle grinder or a fire wrench.
4. Once you get free access to the stuck bolts and they don't have any pressure on them, they will come out a lot easier.
A new spring hanger kit is available at Carpenter and others complete with the bushings, hangers and bolts for around $20.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Duke. After 60 years, the bushings WILL BE pounded out of the spring eyes.
Go ahead and pull the springs and get them replaced.
And remember, the springs have a front and rear so pay attention when you take them off.
U@ss
Go ahead and pull the springs and get them replaced.
And remember, the springs have a front and rear so pay attention when you take them off.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- unibody madness
- Posts: 2147
- Joined: December 4, 2008, 4:33 pm
- Location: Paradise,CALIFORNIA 95969

I agree, after unloading the weight off them, run a nut back on part way and wail on it with a bigger hammer, then use a big center punch to finish the job.
all of mine have come out that way, but I sprayed mine with a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone a few hours prior.
Now removing the bushing from the spring is a different matter for which there aren't enough punctuation marks on my keyboard.
john
all of mine have come out that way, but I sprayed mine with a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone a few hours prior.
Now removing the bushing from the spring is a different matter for which there aren't enough punctuation marks on my keyboard.
john
Turk build thread at:
http://slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944
It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
http://slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944
It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

John, that's when the sabre saw comes in handy!, cut the crush tube in half and then flog the living crap out of it! 
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
- 66fordtrucknut
- Posts: 1289
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:48 pm
- Location: Eastern Shore - MD
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

sometimes thats the best way.DukeRoche wrote: other then a torch
i prefer not to, helps to have an impact wrench that spins the bolts enough that with pb blaster and a little heat (even from a propane torch) you can thread them out.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

Duke, If you've got the bolts out!, and don`t have a saws all!, get your hacksaw take the blade off , put the blade through the bushing and put the blade back in the hacksaw!, now put 2 cut`s through the wall of the bushing about 1/4" apart, then drive an old screw driver down beside the bushing to squeeze the gap together, which will reduce the size of the bushing and it should come out easily!, SHOULD!.
wait till you try and get the rubber out!
That`s real fun right there!
wait till you try and get the rubber out!
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
William-in-St George
- Posts: 579
- Joined: December 31, 2009, 5:26 pm
- Location: Saint George Utah
Hack saw
Dang good idea to put a blade in the hole and then put the handle back on!!! I wraped the blade with tape!! Wish I'd thought to put the handle back on DUHHH!
William-in-St. George
