leaf spring removal problems

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cosmo
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Joined: November 20, 2007, 9:00 am

leaf spring removal problems

Post by cosmo »

Seems easy enough. Right? trying to replace the 45 year old rear leaf spring bushings. I got all six nuts off with not problem last week . Soaked every thing for a week. Had a friend come over today and the bolts will just not come out. We tryed prying and hammering. Bolts spin,but wont back out...may be rusted to sleeves...not sure
I'm not gonna use a torch...me and a torch, nothing good can come of that....
Any tips or anything I'm missing here?
truckster
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Post by truckster »

i sawzall'ed them off and bought new ones...i had the same problem as you did
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cosmo
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thanks truckster..question

Post by cosmo »

I will get hold of a sawzall,but how did you do it? I cnat seem to even get a gap between the bolthead and the leaf to get blade in there...of did you do it another way I'm not thinking about?
sixty6
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Post by sixty6 »

Sounds like you need a bigger hammer. Mine were a pita as well. I might have used a cutoff wheel too.
ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

likely they are rusted to the center sleeves and the rubbers are loose from the outer sleeves.

if you dont like the torch then you must carefully cut between the brackets and the spring eyes
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Uncle Skip
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Post by Uncle Skip »

Cosmo. First, have you removed the rear end?
Do you have the springs "unloaded".
By that I mean do you have the frame jacked up so there is some slack in the hangers.
Even with the rear end still attached to the springs, you can do the following. Its easier without the rear end but what I suggest is:

1. Drop the front of the springs down. Remove the bolts from the front.
2. Raise the frame so the spring eye clears and drops down and you have some room to pull the rear end and springs forward - that will let you access the spring hangers. They are the two flat pieces of metal that connect the spring eye to the frame mount.
3. At this point, if you can't drive the bolts out of the spring eye or the spring mount, cut the two flat pieces with a right angle grinder or a fire wrench.
4. Once you get free access to the stuck bolts and they don't have any pressure on them, they will come out a lot easier.

A new spring hanger kit is available at Carpenter and others complete with the bushings, hangers and bolts for around $20.
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Adamsbugs
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Post by Adamsbugs »

Put the nut back on the bolt part way and get a bigger hammer!
truckster
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Post by truckster »

yeah, just took a lot of muscle to get a gap to where i could get the blade between there. but also, be careful so as not to cut the hanger as well.
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DukeRoche
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Post by DukeRoche »

What made you want to replace them? I'm taking my Slick down to the frame and have been wondering whether I should replace mine or not. Never drove it so I honestly don't know how the ride feels. Just want to know whether I should bother cleaning them up or look into new ones.
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Uncle Skip
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Post by Uncle Skip »

Duke. After 60 years, the bushings WILL BE pounded out of the spring eyes.
Go ahead and pull the springs and get them replaced.
And remember, the springs have a front and rear so pay attention when you take them off.
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unibody madness
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Post by unibody madness »

I agree, after unloading the weight off them, run a nut back on part way and wail on it with a bigger hammer, then use a big center punch to finish the job.
all of mine have come out that way, but I sprayed mine with a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone a few hours prior.
Now removing the bushing from the spring is a different matter for which there aren't enough punctuation marks on my keyboard.
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

John, that's when the sabre saw comes in handy!, cut the crush tube in half and then flog the living crap out of it! :twisted:
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
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DukeRoche
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Post by DukeRoche »

Holy Jesus Cosmo, I feel your pain. Those bolts whipped my but tonight as well. Time to get some cutting disks for the grinder. Bolts 1 Duke 0
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66fordtrucknut
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Post by 66fordtrucknut »

"but I sprayed mine with a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone" Best stuff you can use and cheap.
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DukeRoche
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Post by DukeRoche »

I am honestly stumped on this. Any ideas other then a torch would be appreciated. I will look into sawzalls
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ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

DukeRoche wrote: other then a torch
sometimes thats the best way.
i prefer not to, helps to have an impact wrench that spins the bolts enough that with pb blaster and a little heat (even from a propane torch) you can thread them out.
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DukeRoche
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Post by DukeRoche »

I'm making progress with the bolts, but no such luck with the bushings. I can't even get then to budge. Is a torch to melt them out the best way cause I can't seem to think of any other.
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

Duke, If you've got the bolts out!, and don`t have a saws all!, get your hacksaw take the blade off , put the blade through the bushing and put the blade back in the hacksaw!, now put 2 cut`s through the wall of the bushing about 1/4" apart, then drive an old screw driver down beside the bushing to squeeze the gap together, which will reduce the size of the bushing and it should come out easily!, SHOULD!.
wait till you try and get the rubber out! :lol: That`s real fun right there!
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
William-in-St George
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Hack saw

Post by William-in-St George »

Dang good idea to put a blade in the hole and then put the handle back on!!! I wraped the blade with tape!! Wish I'd thought to put the handle back on DUHHH!
William-in-St. George
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