I need a radiator

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DanSanDiego2000
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Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
Location: San Diego

Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

Make:FORD
Core Size:24 1/4 x 26 5/16 x 2 (3 Row)
Inlet Header Size:4 1/4 x 26 1/4
Outlet Header Size:3 x 26 3/4
Inlet Connector Size:1 3/4 Top Right
Outlet Connector Size:2 Bottom Left
Type of Mount:Rear Flange
Oil Cooler:12 Transmission,
Comments:Brass Tanks with Copper Brass Core
4 Row Core Radiator w/ 24 3/8" Between Headers w/ Auxiliary Side

Part Number NR2304

Image

Image

I believe THIS is the very radiator I used, too. Yes, 4 core, V8 style radiator, and I used a right-off-the-shelf preformed hose from the water pump to the radiator (not a slinky type universal). As mentioned before, if I recall correctly, the hoses are different diameter on the radiator than they are on the water pump or thermostat housing. I'll give you those part numbers later.
The spacer idea may not work. I was going to do that, too, and discarded the idea because it seemed impractical to me for a number of reasons.

Good work so far!!

Dan
cdherman
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 6:36 pm
Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

The bottom outlet is wrong on that one......
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
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ripsnorter
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Location: Washington State

Post by ripsnorter »

Doc I love your posts :D you crack me up, always with a very unique style and humorous point of view.

If all else fails you can have the one out of my '63. It has an I6 in it, can't remember if its a 223 or a 240/300. I'd kind of like to keep it because sure as shooting as soon as I get rid of it I'll need it, but if you need it you can have it if you pay the shipping on it. Just PM me if you want it.
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stronger66ratfink
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Post by stronger66ratfink »

so now that I know more than I will ever need to about 65 and 66 radiators maybe some one can help with the shroud, getting tired of cleaning bugs off the inside of the hood, and that fan scares the hell out of me!
Don't really want junk yard stuff, be great if I could find something to chrome, love da chrome! got my new dual core from my radiator shop, just gave him the year and model and they pull right up from his vendor, singles came in the truck and now they make dual core, bolted right up
ICEMAN6166
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Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

cdherman wrote:The bottom outlet is wrong on that one......
looks like an FE radiator.


other info
302s have water pumps for both sides, cars ,vans have bottom hose (inlet) on ps, trucks on drivers side. no idea if this is the same for 240/300
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

I got a new 76-79 rad for $225 it seems cheap compared to the $500 for the 65 version. there were 2 tabs on the front that needed cut off and it wouldnt readily bolt up but i had some heavy duty zip ties and it works pretty well like that.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

Doc, if the radiator with the bigger flange will work you could always just trim the flange rather than going through the hassle of changing it.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

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DanSanDiego2000
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Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

Doc,

I think we found the BEST answer for you.

Image

Image

-Part Number NR318
-Description Radiator
-Make:FORD
-Core Size:19 1/4 x 26 1/4 x 2
-(3 Row)
-Inlet Header Size: 3 x 26 7/8-
-Outlet Header Size:3 x 26 7/8
-Inlet Connector Size:1 1/2 Top Right
-Outlet Connector Size:1 3/4 Bottom Right
-Type of Mount:Front Flange
-Oil Cooler:12 Transmission,Comments:
-TOC adapters included in kit; Brass Tanks with Copper Brass Core
-Radiator w/ 26 1/4" Between Sides

Two plans of attack:

Plan 1. De-solder the brackets from this radiator, flip them over, and bolt it in (almost all you need to do)

2. Take this radiator as-is, and make spacers to take up the space from your new, intact radiator to your existing support.

With Plan 1, the only hindrance would be the small bumps that are pressed into the L-bracket sides. These bumps act like and are shaped like gussets to maintain the 90 degree bend in the bracket. When placed on the normal side, the gussets don't interfere. When flipped over, the bumps will keep the flange from sitting completely flush. Remedy? Pound the bumps flat, and bolt it in!! Or, place a strip of 1/4" rubber between the core support and the radiator to take up that 1/4" difference, and distribute the clamping force.

With Plan 2, you would have to keep the radiator as-is (bolt flange on front of radiator), and use long bolts from the front of the radiator, through the spacers, and into the radiator core support. The spacers could be 3/8" ID tubing/pipe, or square tubing. This approach might require some trimming of the new radiator brackets.

I wish you could see my 1965, L6 240 with my new NAPA radiator installed (remember, I swapped my 65 brackets onto my new NR318 NAPA radiator). It makes so much more sense when you can SEE it. I went round and round with this problem before taking the approach I did. I could not have asked for a better fit and finish. It's essentially OEM now.

Even though 1965 core supports are different from 1966s, I don't think there are differences from one 1965 2WD radiator support to another. So, the width of your existing radiator should not limit your choices of new radiator width. Your radiator support has approximately a 27" wide opening. Your existing narrow radiator has a wide flange to fill the difference.
This would be the widest radiator possible, 3 row core, with the inlet and outlet in the correct spots.

Almost a slam dunk.
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DanSanDiego2000
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Location: San Diego

Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

Image
Upper radiator hose, NBH7266


Image
Lower radiator hose, NBH7369

Take note, the lower hose is molded with different diameter ends for the water pump and radiator.

To de-solder and re-solder the brackets took me about an hour.

To install radiator, hoses and drain and pressurize system took about another hour.

To figure all this out took hours / weeks / months. Even finding the correct hoses was challenging, but I am so glad to have it done. Worth every second of it all!!

(p.s.: A new water pump and thermostat would be good when you do this. They are quick and inexpensive, and readily accessible when doing the radiator).
cdherman
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Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

This last one looks very much like mine as well. The rad shop appears to have removed the backets that it came with and put my 65 brackets on the rad. Bolted up perfectly.

I will be at a radiator shop tomorrow -- I will ask it he knows a source for my core. Not the same shop, but seems to be a reputable place......
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
cdherman
Posts: 1048
Joined: July 17, 2006, 6:36 pm
Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

I asked the fellow at the radiator shop last week and he did could not find a source for my rad.

The shop that did the swap 4 years ago is not the sort of place that keeps records, so I am at a loss. Rather annoying -- its a V8 core that fits perfectly, has three rows of coolant and an automatic tranny cooler to boot.
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
cdherman
Posts: 1048
Joined: July 17, 2006, 6:36 pm
Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

Was that core a 3 row, with auto tranny cooler at the bottom?
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
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Casey 65
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Joined: April 3, 2006, 1:42 pm
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
United States of America

Re: I need a radiator

Post by Casey 65 »

David, try the Avondale Radiator Shop
(816) 454-2465
2915 Walker Rd, Kansas City, MO 64117

Walker is just east of North KC Hospital. and just north of Armour Road

I've used them and had good results, both repair and new purchase. below the $500 from LMC

Also, LMC does have a 240/300 top hose for the left side inlet. $13 (not flex hose)
"One Test Result is Worth One Thousand Expert Opinions" - Werner von Braun
Bill W
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Joined: December 26, 2007, 1:32 pm
Location: Tucson AZ.

Re: I need a radiator

Post by Bill W »

digging up some old post's?
RickySlickUHS
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Joined: January 11, 2012, 12:23 pm

Re: I need a radiator

Post by RickySlickUHS »

+1 I've used them many times. Excellent shop.
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