manual steering seems tougher than it should be.

[Rusty 63]

It ain't purdy, but it sure looks strong!

[BiffTirkle]

thanks doug, that bracket looks nice and tough. i had already ordered what i needed. i hope by next saturday to accomplish replacing the cab mounts, and rag joint so i can drive this thing!

[64 f100]

Doing the quick and easy rebuild is fine if just wanting a driver. Personally, I would have cut the flange off and brought it on back under the floor had I gone this route.

Rich

[BiffTirkle]

i ordered cab mounts from LMC, i thought for that price and imported part cant be THAT bad. i got them in on tuesday and was sorely disappointed. the metal seemed too thin and it was no where near what the original looked like. on top of that, i think they sent me the wrong ones. one label said "FD. P/U 67-79/BRONC 78-79" the other had the correct part # i ordered. sooo... im not sure what the hell they fit.

so i called LMC told them my issues. i had 3.

1. they shipped my order in a HUGE box full of packing peanuts....
2. the cab mounts were unclear as to what they fit.
3. the cab mounts seemed to be made of cheaper thinner sheet metal than i felt comfortable with.

so they issued me a refund, and told me ups would pick up my return in 3 -5 days.
the next day they called me and told me it wasnt cost effective to pick up the parts so they told me to keep them.

ive mentioned this before, but i have a good friend doug who own a shop called "joe smith early ford and hotrod". hes a dennis carpenter dealer. i placed an order for the cab mounts from him. got one, one is on backorder. first thing i noticed was this was a solid piece!

i measured and the dennis carpenter cab mounts are 16 gauge steel, and identical to what i am replacing, and the LMC imported cab mounts were 18 gauge steel, big and ugly!

i dont have a ton of rust in the floor pans. what is there can easily be patched.
should be a fairly quick undertaking after all the parts are in. i hope....

[BiffTirkle]

i have FINALLY gotten around to doing my cab mounts. its been months, there was a friend of a friend who had done several of these and offered to help. long story short, while waiting for him we decided to sell our house and move (which meant finishing projects that were started fast, and we're still working on it!)

AAANYWAY,
today i pulled the truck into my buddies shop got it ready and started drilling out the welds on the passenger side. i cleaned up the perimeter of the old mounts with a wire wheel so i could see the welds. it was dirty nasty slow work. half way through i went inside the cab to get a better angle at drilling out a weld and i realized i could drill all the welds out from the inside!!!! it may seem like a simple solution. but, it would have been a HUGE help if i had a hint or tip to do that before i started the project. that also means i dont have to jack the cab up as high and it makes the job much faster. im quite happy that i realized that. needless to say i didnt get it all completed today but i will be driving the truck home tomorrow! i hope. haha

i am also patching holes in the floorboards while i am at it. so this is very exciting for me since it is my first experience with body work.

as i scoured the forums for help or tips about replacing cab mounts i felt like there werent very clear directions on how to do the job. from what i understand 65 and 66 are different from previous and later years. i took some pictures. do you think i should post a topic in the hints and tips section about how to do this job? or is there already a good thread that i missed?

thank you all for the help this far id be lost and probably broke without your advice.

[Toyz]

By all means, post your repair! We as a group could have offered more info, especially as to replacement parts and methods. From looking at your pics, my assumption was that your floorboards were also toast.
Knowing a DC supplier is a definite advantage, for several reasons; I am pleased to know that LMC responded well; I 've had several items I was not pleased with , but never bothered to follow up. It appears to be a common problem with Slicksters; we tend to think just as you stated; at the price, how bad can it be? We usually quickly determine the answer. I'm sure LMC has at least taken note of the comments made during their gracious support of SS5; I think they probably try to go with a limited number of known suppliers, and a company that makes acceptable parts for, say, a 72 C10, may not do so well on replacements ofr a Slick, for example.
Glad to hear your'e getting it underway!
Paul