1 wire alt / gauge cluster change

[Jerry D]

So, I bought a 100 amp 1 wire alternator from Summit last week. I've read a lot of threads on how to hook it up, so I know I should install the in-line fuse, and the mfgr site said 8 ga. wire is sufficient. I have a round cluster from a bronco that I'd like to install at the same time. All of the hook ups should be straight forward (need new oil pressure gage sender), but I'm not sure about the alt meter's inductive wire. I don't have the insulated lug on the fenderwell as many do, so I'm not sure what wire to run to the cluster? Any help would be appreciated.

Jerry D

[WrongBedDave]

Depending on if you really want the alt meter or you want a volt meter you can buy a volt meter that bolts in to the round bronco cluster and looks stock. Its on Wild Horses 4x4 and im sure other places

[Blackwaterforge]

With the amp meter (which I have with bronco gauges) you run a full amperage loop through the gauge.
It reads direction of current. I like mine because the sensitivity of the gauge allows you to check if lights (brake, blinkers etc) are working because the amp hand twitches with the voltage change.
Volt meter is simpler to wire and tells you how much charge your battery has left.
The volt meter does not require full amperage so it is somewhat safer if you have a short.

[Leeroy]

I personally am a fan of ammeters, I like to know if current is flowing in or out of the battery and how much. Voltmeters do a decent job as well as mentioned but basically only tell you if it's >12v then you have an alternator that is doing something! It's a controversial topic with most people at the best of times.

Problem you're going to have (same as me) is you have an alternator with a much higher current capacity than the ammeter. Most of the time you are going to operating at far less than the 60amp maximum that the ammeter displays (unless you have a massive stereo, electric fans and xenon 2 billion headlights) but if you ever have a dead flat battery or jump start another car then you'll operate at much higher current than the ammeter is designed to take. This unfortunately is a fire risk. I've never found an ammeter that can take more than 60 amps, I'm sure they exist but I haven't found one.

So your only options are: risk it or watch the max output, no ammeter at all, or run an ammeter shunt which doesn't give you true current usage. You'll find a ton of info on ammeter shunts via uncle google.

Good luck, let us know how you go!

[ICEMAN6166]

heres one i found,



http://www.uatparts.com/miva/merchant.m ... Code=GAUGE

you can also use a high amp circuit breaker

[Leeroy]

Well spotted ice!

Prob won't fit in the bronco cluster too easily however although definitely an option if you don't mind a different gauge

I started down the road of converting the cable tacho to a normal type so it fit in the instrument panel, boy oh boy does the cost run away quickly when you go for the 'custom' stuff! Needless to say I still don't have a tacho... (Or running slick!) but now they make em for bronco's anyway!

[Jerry D]

So if I stay with the stock bronco gauge, what wire do I run through the inductive pick up? Do I run the wire that's on the current idiot light through it, and if so, where would it terminate?

[ICEMAN6166]

So if I stay with the stock bronco gauge, what wire do I run through the inductive pick up? Do I run the wire that's on the current idiot light through it, and if so, where would it terminate?

no you have to run the wire from the back of the alternator thru the loop and back to the starter relay, 8 ga, is pretty stout and not sure if it will fit thru the loop or not it will be close. i know a 10 ga will fit.in addition you have to orient the wire going thru the loop in the proper direction or the gauge will read backwards. this means the + side must be towards the alt.as you can see from the pic that means it goes from the alt down thru the loop and back to the relay.
the factory wiring was slightly different as there was a voltage regulator in the system allowing the use of a smaller gauge wire without creating a fusible link.