Great success!

[Oregoon]

Shortly after buying my '66 F100 for $500, I pulled the Autolite off my 240 to rebuild it. I've done a lot of carbs, and the thing was really simple. It wound up being shot and even when I got it to work (somewhat), the Load-o-matic left a lot to be desired.

So, I did some research on this board, and decided a Carter YF and a Duraspark II with an HEI would be the best bet.

The install went well, and it fired right up and had great response. It also refused to idle anywhere below 900 rpm.

And so an extensive trouble-shooting process began. Vaccuum leaks were found, manifolds surfaced, different jets sought out, plug gaps played with, carb exchanged, phenolic spacer installed... And still, nothing. The truck went like a banshee when I put my foot in it, and refused to hold an idle despite my endless fooling with the above.

Then, a few days ago, my ignition switch fell apart in my hand due to a broken ear on the bezel.

Again I visted the board here and asked for a hand in identifying which wire did what, and in the process, learned about the resistor wire...

Today, I bypassed it and my Duraspark is getting 12V. The result is my truck running extremely well, and idling down as low as I care to set it. I measured around 400 rpm earlier, though it's turned up a little more than that now.

So, long story short, I just wanted to thank Bobenhotep, Paul, Ras and everyone else who offered suggestions and encouragement. I haven't received an unkind word, or a bit of questionable advice yet.

Many thanks, and until the next thing breaks...

[unibody madness]

Yep,thats why I come here too.

[Toyz]

Glad that fixed it! Agreed, this is an unusual site. I was active in a bunch of various forums, and this one rapidly became my favorite!
great people and mostly lacking the b.s ! Well; except for the humorous b.s.!
Being a trucker, you are not really that far from Iowa; come see this enlarged family up close, and put faces and personalities with the players!
Paul

[bobenhotep]

Good to hear. This is by far the best forum I know of. I will update my Duraspark/ HEI bit to have a specific warning about the pink wire.

Dan

[Toyz]

If utilizing a 12 volt replacement primary source; for increased dependability and longevity, be certain to use a coil designed for 12 volt continuous input. The OEM application is not, some DS coils are, some are not.
Paul

[Oregoon]

That crossed my mind, and I belive my perfromance coil is indeed designed for continued 12V service.

If it's not, what can happen?

[Toyz]

Best to let Danimal answer that one viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32127&start=0
His was an uncommon scenario, but overheating, winding failure and even explosion could result. More likely is the coil would simply die an earlier death.
Paul

[oldtrucks]

Oregoon
I use a 12 volt dry coil from a fuel injected engine. They rarely fail and produce a hotter spark. Whenever I am in a salvage yard I snag a couple of them. I use them with the stock Dura Spark system and with a MSD box. One of the best ignition up grade you can do. Just make sure you hook it up to a switched 12 volt source and you are good to go.

[Oregoon]

I assume the #12 primary wire I ran from my igntion switch to my coil would be a sufficient 12V source? I traced the pink resistor-wire through the firewall plug, and that's where it went... I added a 15 amp in-line fuse, to be safe.

Will probably get a new coil now, just to be safe. I assume I can ask for a 12V dry coil for a '96 EFI truck and that'll fit the bill?

Thanks for you time--I really don't want to mess anything up and would rather ask an dumb question than make a dumb mistake.

[Toyz]

Yeah, I would think 12 ga. would be just slight overkill , but should work fine, and Mike has a good idea. Depending on the particular counter person, I would just ask for a replacement coil for the application you mentioned; to avoid confusion by the "dry" coil statement. If you prefer one of the "performance" brands, those are also available for the same applications.
Paul

[Oregoon]

Thanks again.