Im trying to get both the light and gauge working. Im replacing the current mechanical oil and volt gauge with electric Autometer gauges, the PO bypassed the idiot lights and removed the underhood wiring. The cab side of the wiring is still there.
Is there a better way with less fittings? If so a p/n would be helpful.
I can look up the OEM part number for the block, but it is probably obsolete. What you are showing pretty well duplicates original anyway. BTW, have you test mounted the Rally Pac yet?
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
I haven't mocked it up yet. The old gauge pod is still there. Im going to pull it this week and work on getting the idiot lights working.
I need to pull the cluster to install the bezel gasket, fix the wiring, and clean the speedo. Im off by about 18mph, at an indicated speed of 50, gps says Im doing 68. I don't know if the gears were changed or if the speedo is hanging up. I guess I need to lift the wheels and figure out my gear ratio. I believe the engine and tranny are the originals, so Ive got a bad speedo or 2.50 gears.
Door tag should give you original ratio. If, you have 2.50 gears the amount your speedo is off indicates an original ratio of about 3.25. Speedo is not that easy to work on but cleaning may help. Surprised that you may have a 2.50 ratio. Do you have an automatic in your truck? There are two gears for the speedo one on the cable the other in the transmission. You may be able to get by with changing the speedo gear . Or, you may have to change both to get it right. Although if you have someone that does calibration speedo work it's possible to have it recalibrated fi I'm not mistaken.
Rich
1961 F350
1964 Galaxie convertable
1964 flairside, style side, and longbed
1965 Ranger, and shortbed
1966 long bed, and shortbed
A few parts trucks also
1991 Capri
2011 F250
2004 Lexus
If cleaning doesn't change it, having a shop recalibrate it is a good option. That big a change would probably require changing the shaft gear, which can be a PIA! The shop will "get it right" for tire height and ratio with no guesswork.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Are you absolutely certain that the sender for the gauge is the correct one? The are four different types of that sender, plus there is two different styles of threads at the nipple that I'm aware of.
Tom
"Make him a "deal" deal, maybe the guy's a republican!"
The gauge sender is the one that came with the Autometer gauge.
Im guessing its a 2.50 ratio. With a 292/AT, I can moon walk faster than this truck accelerates, but I will lift the wheels and get a guesstimate on what it is.
There was no door tag when I bought the truck. The PO passed, I bought it from his estate.
Im running L78-15s that are 29.3 inches tall, when they wear out I will go with a 28 inch or so radial.
My Rally Pacs arrived today. I'm not sure how I am going to secure the gauges. I'm thinking of using extension nuts, then screws from the back. I'm not sure if I'm overlooking a simpler but equally secure solution.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Crawled under the truck this morning to start the new gauge install.
As I was removing the plumbing for the mechanical gauge I noticed a second plug in the block. Could that go into the oil galley as well? I would be able to run each sending unit into the block and eliminate two pieces of plumbing.
As you can see, theres not a lot of room to work under there.
